pinning moose antlers

Submitted by gary on 10/24/04 at 8:23 PM. ( aataxidermy@sbcglobal.net ) 69.209.119.6

i have a set of moose antlers that were cut off the skull plate right below the pedicals. i want the pin them back on the skull plate and have them removeable. i have pinned moose antlers before but have always started with them on the skull and drilled from the backside of the skull into the horn to get the alignment and then pinned with the Jonas antler pins.
any tips or methods for pinning antlers that have already been removed?
thanks
gary

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Not sure...

This response submitted by Raven on 10/24/04 at 10:13 PM. ( ) 24.150.199.145

Not sure I completely picture what yer saying, but.... square stock steel and box tube is a very effective way of making antlers secure and removeable.


Just did one

This response submitted by Jim on 10/25/04 at 12:59 AM. ( ) 64.12.116.74

I just did a 65" Alaskan moose that way.You have to start by lining up each antler to the skull pedicel and making reference marks so you can line them up when bondoing the pins in.I used 6" McKenzie pins.I drilled up in the antler and the in the skull with a 1 1/8" paddle bit(sharp).I set the sleeve in the skull first.I then checked the fit and found I had to bend the pin slightly to go in the antler at the right angle.Make sure that the half of the pin that goes in the sleeve doesn't get bent.I then turned the antler tips down,burr up.I put the pin in the sleeve,waxed the pedicel and put bondo down the drilled hole in the antler.I then sunk the pin in the bondoed antler hole,lining up my reference marks.In other words,instead of holding the heavy antler over the skull while the bondo sets,the whole deal is upside down with antler propped in place and I hold the upside down(and lightweight)skull cap while the bondo sets.I don't have to eye-ball the angle of the antlers,because I already did that when I laid out my reference marks and now I only have to keep my marks lined up while the bondo sets.I then do the second antler the same way.I hpe this helps and isn't too confusing.I won't say it isn't a lot of work.It took me around a half day to complete.Good luck.


I'd never use Bondo on pins

This response submitted by George on 10/25/04 at 8:00 AM. ( georoof@aol.com ) 205.188.116.83

It's too soft to hold that kind of weight without wearing away. The set that I did, I ended up taking long slats and taping them on the antlers as supports to keep them separated and stable. I must have used 10 or 12 in a crossthatch maze to hold them firm. Then I drilled a 1/4 pilot hole though the skull into the antler. I only use regular set epoxy (6 hour type)with some fiberglass chop to hold the pins in place. Once that hardens, neither the pins nor the antlers will ever go anywhere.


Not just any bondo

This response submitted by Jim on 10/25/04 at 12:32 PM. ( ) 152.163.100.133

I neglected to say, that the bondo I use is a premium grade that sells for $30.00 a can and is a whole different animal from that,which sells for $10.00-$12.00.It is a lot tougher,harder and shrinks less than the cheap stuff.I have been using it for about 3 years now on special projects and it is worth every penny.I still use the cheap stuff for other things too and wouldn't consider it either for antler pins.And like I said before,it's a lot easier to hold the skull cap to the antler than it is to brace up the antlers etc..The key is having reference marks so you can line up the antler-skull correctly.I have done them the "crosshatch" way also.


Good point Jim

This response submitted by George on 10/25/04 at 12:57 PM. ( ) 205.188.116.83

That stuff is almost pure fiberglass resin with less microballoons. I've used regular fiberglass resin with fiberglass chop and it works exceptionally well also.


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