I posted a question about attaching a elk european skull to a panel. I was given the old click on the orange button. Well i had done that prior to posting my question. there was one way to attach a skull and I wasn't really happy with that. It was to drill up thru the teeth. There has to be a better way. Now i use the archives first before i ask a question and really don't need to be treated like a dumb ass. So again I would like to see if anyone has a proven method for attaching a Elk skull to a panel
Thanks for any future help on the matter.
Return to Gamehead Taxidermy Category Menu
There probably IS, but we don't have it yet. So when you come up with a BETTER way, you post it here in the archives and we'll all learn. Personally, I use artificial skulls when I can just to eliminate that problem. OR I sand off the teeth so that I have a flat surface to work with. Otherwise, I DRILL UP THROUGH THE TEETH AND PUT A BLOCK THERE.
Ron
I understand that It may sometimes seem pissy <<<< the orange button thing <<<< But you'll notice over time that the same people share their knowledge over and over and over again. They offer suggestions, advice and criticizm. And It can get old for them answering the same questions over and over. There are some top notch guys and gals on here that give their time for us, the beginner. I guess when I got my "nasty grams" the first time I posted I realized that all they wanted was for me to do a little homework first. So, you are not alone. Since then, I've learned a lot and it was free! Not much is.
Now to your question.
There are countless ways to mount a skull to a plate. Now I must admit I'd love to know exactly how George does it through the teeth, I've personally never seen it before. But I'm sure it works if he says it does. You can bondo wood to the top palate of the skull, between the molars and then simply screw through the plaque into the wood. I've tried it it works. You can use a toggle bolt and and drill a hole through the bottom of the skull where the spinal cord attaches to the skull and attach it there. I've put bondo in the skull and screwed into that. I got really creative one day and used that expansive polyfoam that comes in a can "The Stuff" I think its called and sprayed that in to the brain cavity and again used a toggle bolt. My favorite method is using a toggle bolt through a 7/32" Brass round tubing with brass finishing washers on either end. It finishes the mount up and acts as a post. To me Its the neatest thing. Others might not agree.
the point is that you are limited by only your imagination and creativity in how you overcome the obstacles that you face. Experiment, make mistakes, learn from them and press on. There is no magical right way to do any one thing. Find what works for you and use it. and If you think it's the next best thing since sliced bread post it, share it and others will learn from you.
That's what makes this site and the people who post on it the best Pissy or not.
Good luck!
When I have one to do, I first mix up a fist sized ball of Apoxie sculpt. Then I set the teeth of the skull down on my my work surface to see just how much clearance I have underneath the palate area. I form the Apoxie into an oblong oval a little higher and narrower than the jawline channel and spray it with water. Then I press the skull down on the Apoxie with the teeth flat on the countertop. Once I have the impression, I remove the skull.
As the Apoxie dries, I mix fiberglass resin with fiberglass chop and Cabosil until it just pours like a very heavy syrup. I pour the brain cavity full of this mixture and invert it so it doesn't ooze out anyplace.
When both harden, I trace a pattern of the plaque I'm intending on using out of cardboard (this is very important so you don't screw up your nice, bright panel) and cut it out. I use 5 minute epoxy to hold the Apoxie bier under the skull. Once it bonds, I set the skull on the cardboard and position it as I want it to be. Then I slide the whole assembly to the table edge and drill through the cardboard into the Apoxie with a small bit.
Now that I have a pattern, I drill and oversized hole in my panel using the cardboard guide. I drill an UNDERSIZED hole through the Apoxie into the brain cavity and the hardened fiberglass. I countersink the panel back so I can use a good 1/2 inch lag bolt that will go all the way through the Apoxie into the skull of the elk and I tighten the sucker down. Now I usually keep a piece of cardboard under the teeth of the skull while I'm doing this installation so the panel isn't scratched. When I get close, I position the skull one last time, pull the cardboard out and tighten the bolt until the teeth actually cut into the panel. They will stop the head from twisting once it's on the wall. Then I install a heavy hanger and I'm done.
George
I'm going to have to try your method. But I need to clarify just a few things...
The fiberglass mix that you pour into the skull is just to reinforce the skull? So that the mixture is less than say an 1/8 inch thick?
The apoxie sculpt that you form into a ball and place under the skull acts as a pedestal so to speak? stabalizing the skull to the plaque? Do you paint it or is it in effect invisible when the mount is complete?
After you drill your small hole through the apoxie sculpt, skull and fiberglass mixture you said you use a lag bolt, is that the kind you would use in masonary?
The cardboard is smart! I scratched my last plaque ever so slightly on my last skull mount and that would never have happened!
thanks in advance
JD
I actually FILL the brain cavity with reinforced fiberglass. (2) the Apoxie sculpt I use is the natural but when it's formed, I take the WHITE Apoxi and cover the outside visible edges, and (3) I oversize my hole in the Apoxie so the lag can grab on to the fiberglass inside the brain cavity. Apoxie is still rather "soft" even when hardened and I'd fear it would split or crack if a large lag went through it.
Wasn't good enough