I have tried to do the tear ducts on a deer by cutting a slit in the form and tucking it into the slit. I havent had much luck doing this seems I end up pokeing more holes and never seem to find the cut. This time I dremeled out a bigger area and filled it with clay. Turned out better but still pulled out a little even after pinning it till dry. Has anyone used this method with apoxi sculpt with any luck? I thought it might hold better than the clay. Thanks for the help.
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What I do is when I open up the tear duct on the form I cut it forward instead of straight in. that way if it open up a little it won't be as noticeable. I also put a little clay in front of the duct and after I tuck the skin in the form I put a few hide nails to hold it and then I roll the clay over to close it up. You can also open it up a little and apply a little super glue in there after a day or two and it will stick shut.You can apply apoxi sculpt in there when you finish and dry brush it in to match. always remember a tear duct is mostly always closed on a deer. so don't paint it black like some do. Hope this helps Joe
use a Dremel tool with the small "engraving" bit. It creates a narrow slot. Then use a two part epoxy type hide paste on all areas of the face, eyes duct nose and lips. This paste is workable for hours, so you don't have to woory about time. It sets up and I have NEVER had a problem with any part I've used it on.
make sure you aren't cutting yourself short on skin when you are caping the head out
make sure your eye to nose measurement is accurate to a tad bit short, because you need a little skin to play with as the cape shrinks, everyday taxi that extra loose skin into the correct position, it shouldn't really "taxi" that much, but i think you are kinda breaking the hide, and preventing as much shrinkage.
I also use a dremel tool with a small bit. I then fill with apoxie sculpt and when I press in the hide I roll the apoxie sculpt inward toward the duct by manipulating it through the skin. It dries and realy locks the hide in there. I coat area around it on the maniken liberally with Epo-Grip to help reduce shrinkage. Also I thin this area down very thin. Almost no shrinkage.