I'm planning out how to have my taxidermist mount a very large 420 class elk. I saw a mount in a lodge... a pedestal mount (may have been a full sneak form altered) that looked great and the antlers (as well as the shoulder mount were pinned for assembly/disassembly).
Question 1: Pinning system for very heavy antlers.... Research Mannakin seems to have a heavy duty set. Any other recommendations or comments? Also, any comments I should know about pinning the antlers..which by the way is killing me to think about. I plan to searcb the archives on the topic.
Question 2: Anyone care to offer up a recommendation on a form that either is a pedestal form or can easily be altered. I am looking at a sneak or semi-sneak as the room this will go in has an 8 foot ceiling.... figure I can adjust the pedestal height to clear the ceiling....it's that or build an extension to the house.
Any and all comments appreciated.
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#1 Type in removable antlers in the search area and you will get some very good ideas on doing them.
#2 If your taxidermist is any good, he should be able to pose your mount how you want it, just be prepared to pay him for his time.
you ask your taxidermist. If he/she is any kind of a professional, he/she should be able to provide appropriate recommendations.
If you are caught second-guessing your taxidermist, you will not create a very good relationship and will demonstrate a lack of trust in their experience and judgement.
-Bill
Bill,
It's not exactly a trust issue, he's never done a set of pinned elk antlers nor an elk.... so we are researching it. He's look in taxidermy magazines and I'm using this website as a resource. When you are doing something for the first time.... it's always good to get some good data from folks who "have been there and done that." That's the intent.
This is gonna sound rude but it's not my intent . . .oh well, here goes . .
Why in the world would anyone let a 420 class elk be mounted by ANYONE who has never mounted an elk before? Yes, an elk is just a big deer but they have their own set of problems to deal with. Plus . . . pinning antlers on a 420 is harder than on a smaller one because of the weight. I would look for a taxidermist who is experienced before I end up with a mess I'd have to look at from now on.
I'm totally out of the taxidermy business after owning my own shop for several years so I'm definitely not after your business, but here's a 442 mount I did that might give you some ideas. The walnut base is 22" tall and the overall mount will just barely fit in a room with an 8' ceiling. I started with a Jonas Brothers right turn bugling form and turned it into a pedestal, tilted it back a little, and added the partial legs and the rock base. Total cost to client was $3800.00 - a little low, but he is a buddy of mine and we often hunt together.
http://www.jerrystringer.net/bullelk.jpg
Good luck!
Jerry S.
They have explicit details on pinning antlers in one of their back issues that he can buy OR if he already has it, they can tell him what issue it was.
Personally, I prefer the McKenzie pins as they are machined to close tolerances as well as having a glue groove to hole them in place. I THINK their pin takes a 5/8 hole. You drill a hole through the skull and deep into the antler. Then you mark the antler with a magic marker to index it and cut it off right under the pedicel. On the base or skull, you now take a one inch bit and counter bore the 5/8 hole. I use Epo-Grip #30 paste to glue the pin in the antler. Now the one inch hole in the skull will accommodated the square tube stock. With the skull attached to the mannikin (before you start mounting) fill the cavity with either #30 mixed with fiberglass chop or their Ear Magic (The #30 is best as it takes longer to cure, but dries stronger than the Ear Magic.). Grease your pin end heavily and slip it into the square tube stock. Rotate the antler until your magic marker index marks align and then gently pull the anter pin and antler off. Let it cure. Once cured, sand the square tube stock flat on the skull and reinstall your antler to test it.
Ok, I admit never mounting a huge elk like that. But then I don't trust the punney pin sets that are sold thru catalogs.
Steel store time, no home cheapo or Louds.
Go to a real place that deals with steel.
One inch or 3/4 inch square tubing and the correct bar stock. The bar stock will need to be clamped in a vise and sanded away or filed away. I use a belt sander it is quicker and does a great job.
You will mill the bar to just slide into the tubing with very little slack, the tighter the better as long as IT SLIDES without sticking.
Mark the sides left and right, and mill each to fit perfectly.
On each side mark one and two, on the tubing and the stock so they don't get mixed up.
Now if you want to spend the extra money to feel safe, have the bar stock milled at the machine shop for a perfect fit.
Lay this aside.
You will now use a strong 3/8th drill bit, you need the long one, just drill slow its only bone and pithy bone at that.
Drill as deep and you can say 12 inches or so. thru the skull plate and deep into the antler. You need help holding this steady or clamp it somehow.
Now using a drill bit that drills a hole large enough for the for the tubing to slide down into. Mark the drill with a piece of tape so you know how deep into the skull plate and antler plate you are drilling. Keep your hand on the antler at the depth of the drill bit tip, if you start feeling the heat STOP STOP STOP. you are abhout to bust thru the antler.
Repeat on the other side.
Now cut your steel square tubing two pieces or you could have done this earlier, just keep the square bar stock match to the tubing.
Plug the ends of the square tubing, with epoxy, this will keep the next step from filling the tube up.
Once this setsup you are ready to set the tubing into the skull plate/antler.
Do this to only one side at a time.
Mix 50% polyester resin and 50% bondo, You want this soupy, now using the colored MEKP.( YOU DONT WANT THIS TO HOT, the slower it sets the stronger it is! So 30/45 or even 60 minutes to set and heat is perfect.
Now pour the hole about half full of the catylized resin/bondo mix, and insert the tubing work the tubing to get the air bubbles out, try tapping the antler base quite hard.
Once this has set, heated and started to cool, do the other side.
(You will notice the antlers are still all one piece at this point)
the tubing should stick past the antler plate two or so inches.
Why? because you will fill this with resin and matting (NOT CLOTHE) MATTING, work so there are ZERO air bubbles in the resin and mat.
Let this heat and setup over night.
This setting will allow the resin to heat and shrink as it cools off.
Do another layer again let is heat and cool over night.
Continue until the inside of the skull plate is completely layers with matting and resin.
Again mix as per directions, you dont want this to hot, you are building strength not volume.
To hot and the resin is weak and will crack.
Once you have this done, cut the tubing off level with the resin inside the skull or brain cavity.
Now the antlers are ready to mount on the form.
Use lag screws of bolts, to hold this down.
Yes the antlers are still in one piece!
Now using more matt and resin glass the skull onto the form, give this a couple days to complete the work.
Your bar stock is still laying on the counter.
Now using a fine toothed hack saw, cut the skull under the antler burr, in a V,,,,, have someone hold the side of the antler you are working one.
The V will help with alignment.
Cut the other side.
Insert the bar stock into the skull nad place the antler on the square pin, and mount the elk, Just be sure to pull a bit extra skin up the burr You want 1/4 inch extra.
Your antler will fit perfectly.
Jonas Bros of Colorado have the forms.
Best wishes
Rorie
Thanks to everyone who took time to respond and comment ... lots of good information and advice.
Tony
I basicly do detachables the same as Rorie. Tony, you are taking a BIG chance and most probably making a BIG mistake letting a taxidermist that has no experience with elk mounts work on this trophy. I suppose you are saving a dollar or he is a friend or both. When "you" help he should even charge more; stress fee. . Good luck, you both need it. He can call me if he runs into problems and I will help all I can if he needs it.. 1-307-587-9443 Cody Wyoming