I have an elk and a moose to mount. They are for a former customer of mine that moved out west. He wants me to mount them and ship them to him. Should I use removable antlers? Being from CT I don't do many elk or moose so I have never used removable antlers. Is there a company that makes better ones then other company's? Thanks for your help.
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I'm getting ready to do my first elk with removable antlers. Actually, it is my first elk ever.
I did a bunch of research here and it is pretty unanimous to use the system sold by many suppliers. The new McKenzie catalog has them on page 641.
Personally, I have found out through trial and error that none of those detachable antler kits works for me. They are junk because you have to many things that can go wrong. Like excessive drilling to make adjustments and the use of unnecessary apoxies or bondo which creates another mess. My method eleviates all this unnecessay work and mis-alignments.
I have done many detachable antlers and the simplest way that I have found out is to turn the antlers upside down and just drill two holes from underneath the skull plate upward into each antler. The first hole will be drilled with a 1/2 inch extended drill bit and the second hole using a 3/8 inch extended drill bit. Drill up into the antler as far as you can without exiting the antler.
Once you have the holes drilled make alignment markers with a magic marker all the way around underneath the burr of each antler. Now, I drill what I call a key hole using a 1/8" bit starting at the top of the crown in the back portion of the antler. Drill down about 2" or so into the back of the antler. Using a small nail or rod to put into this hole will take out any wiggle that may come into play when you reattach the antlers. Then cut the antlers off just under the crown of the antlers.
Now, you know they have to align up properly because they were solid before you cut them off. Now use stainless steel rods, one 1/2" and the other 3/8" and reattach or prefit the antlers back to there original position. The benefit of using stainless steel rods is paramount because they don't rust. Those other types of square steel stock will rust over time and you can't pull the antler's off and sometimes bleed out with rust and run down onto the mount and create a real mess. Ofcourse, this all depends on where the customer places the mount in his home; like in a damp basement etc.
If anyone thinks that this process may seem difficult I can forward you photo's of the process that shows just how easy it is. Please only SERIOUS inquiries. This is just my opinion.
John Griffith
www.griffithtaxidermy.com
This response submitted by Rorie on 9/28/05 at 7:37 PM. ( dont_rush_me@this is slow but good ) 67.141.88.112
Ok, I admit never mounting a huge elk like that. But then I don't trust the punney pin sets that are sold thru catalogs.
Steel store time, no home cheapo or Louds.
Go to a real place that deals with steel.
One inch or 3/4 inch square tubing and the correct bar stock. The bar stock will need to be clamped in a vise and sanded away or filed away. I use a belt sander it is quicker and does a great job.
You will mill the bar to just slide into the tubing with very little slack, the tighter the better as long as IT SLIDES without sticking.
Mark the sides left and right, and mill each to fit perfectly.
On each side mark one and two, on the tubing and the stock so they don't get mixed up.
Now if you want to spend the extra money to feel safe, have the bar stock milled at the machine shop for a perfect fit.
Lay this aside.
You will now use a strong 3/8th drill bit, you need the long one, just drill slow its only bone and pithy bone at that.
Drill as deep and you can say 12 inches or so. thru the skull plate and deep into the antler. You need help holding this steady or clamp it somehow.
Now using a drill bit that drills a hole large enough for the for the tubing to slide down into. Mark the drill with a piece of tape so you know how deep into the skull plate and antler plate you are drilling. Keep your hand on the antler at the depth of the drill bit tip, if you start feeling the heat STOP STOP STOP. you are abhout to bust thru the antler.
Repeat on the other side.
Now cut your steel square tubing two pieces or you could have done this earlier, just keep the square bar stock match to the tubing.
Plug the ends of the square tubing, with epoxy, this will keep the next step from filling the tube up.
Once this setsup you are ready to set the tubing into the skull plate/antler.
Do this to only one side at a time.
Mix 50% polyester resin and 50% bondo, You want this soupy, now using the colored MEKP.( YOU DONT WANT THIS TOO HOT, the slower it sets the stronger it is! So 30/45 or even 60 minutes to set and heat is perfect.
Now pour the hole about half full of the catylized resin/bondo mix, and insert the tubing work the tubing to get the air bubbles out, try tapping the antler base quite hard.
Once this has set, heated and started to cool, do the other side.
(You will notice the antlers are still all one piece at this point)
the tubing should stick past the antler plate two or so inches.
Why? because you will fill this with resin and matting (NOT CLOTHE) MATTING, work so there are ZERO air bubbles in the resin and mat.
Let this heat and setup over night.
This setting will allow the resin to heat and shrink as it cools off.
Do another layer again let is heat and cool over night.
Continue until the inside of the skull plate is completely layers with matting and resin.
Again mix as per directions, you dont want this to hot, you are building strength not volume.
To hot and the resin is weak and will crack.
Once you have this done, cut the tubing off level with the resin inside the skull or brain cavity.
Now the antlers are ready to mount on the form.
Use lag screws of bolts, to hold this down.
Yes the antlers are still in one piece!
Now using more matt and resin glass the skull onto the form, give this a couple days to complete the work.
Your bar stock is still laying on the counter.
Now using a fine toothed hack saw, cut the skull under the antler burr, in a V,,,,, have someone hold the side of the antler you are working one.
The V will help with alignment.
Cut the other side.
Insert the bar stock into the skull and place the antler on the square pin, and mount the elk, Just be sure to pull a bit extra skin up the burr You want 1/4 inch extra.
Your antler will fit perfectly.
Jonas Bros of Colorado have the forms.
Best wishes
Rorie