I often have ears that have lost quite a bit of hair after I get them back from the tannery. I am sure it is my fault, as I am slow at turning ears and with my hands on them so long it ain't helping the situation. My question is, would putting stop rot on them after I finish turning them keep the hair in the inner ear from slipping out between while being tanned?
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Brian ive had great results with the stop rot
now i dont send much to the tanneries but i believe stop rot will help anyone with preservation of the skin
when i get a head in as it is defrosting i apply stop rot immediately to the outside of the eyes,nose,mouth, and inside and aotside of the ears
as i take it off the head i keep a cup of it handy and apply it as i skin it off
you know i noticed something neat yesturday its warming up down here in louisisana and the flies are coming out of the woodwork
well i noticed that after i put the stop rot on the go away
weird but cool they are pesky if you are stuck with them
im sorry i got off subject
now after you taken it off the head cover entire cape and let it sit a hour
if you do this procedure i think youll get great results
less loss of hair,the ears will turn really easy
and you will get less color loss in the end
to cheap not to use it
p.s. put gloves on it will keep the heat from your hands down a little
I couldn't tell by what you posted if you are taking the cartilage out before or after sending the capes out. So, more than one thing comes to mind.
First off, use the STOP-ROT before you even start to open the ears. You can get some pretty good penetration by brushing STOP-ROT on the hair side of the ear. The drier the ear, the better the penetration. If you are having trouble with hairs staying attached to the cartilage, body fluid drained and then air dried ears could be your problem. Ears can get real easy to turn if you use STOP-ROT to assist. You can actually get pretty fancy with your cartilage removal. Here's an address that will give you more details:
www.hidetanning.net/STOP-ROTfreezer.html
One thing that everyone wants to forget is that that animal was alive before it was dead. As live animals, the inner ears are frequently full of various forms of crud. Once the living system is dead, there is no longer anything to resist what may have been secondary infections inside the ear. STOP-ROT that inner ear all the way down into the ear canal. Right up front. Get the thin epidermis around the eyes and lacrimal, nose pad, and lip skin while you're at it. Do both the hair side and flesh side. Takes very little material, and very little time.
Glen
Paul's post wasn't on yet.
I had to find the web address for Brian. That slowed me doen too.
Hey, Paul! Thanks for the observation on flies! Have you left any scrap laying around with a little meat on it (bone/hide) that had been STOP-ROT treated? I've been questioning this lack of insect attraction, especially with beetles for sometime.
Brian, I have found that the ears turn easier and quicker if you inject the stop-rot under the ear skin. I do this before I cape in out. If the head is frozen, I inject it as soon as possible. If you put it back in the freezer for a few days before proceeding, it's even better.
i keep the area well treated
i have a pc or two lying around
no infestation so far
i test fit all my capes and only thin what i have to so
the bottom portion of the cape past the end of the form is fleshed but not thinned
you know i never thought of looking to see if any damage was done to them yet ill have to go look
ill get back to you
paul e
Thanks for all the answers, I appreciate it. I have never used Stop Rot before, but I will be getting some, thats for sure! Great advice from everyone- thanks again.
the scraps you were asking about
i had a pc i threw in the corner
its been on the floor since end of november
its in the same look and shape as when i cut it off the end of the form and tossed it aside
ts got a little flesh left on it also
im going to toss it my shed outside
ill go back in a few weeks to see whats up with it
very interesting Glen
heh i wonder if you could treat horns with stop rot
you know like a mature long horn or black buck where the horns are near to impossible to get off
well Glen maybe it would help get them off
here i go i guess i need to experiment a little
maybe some are already doing this, but I inject tails that need stripping (squirrels etc.) with STOP-ROT before I start skinning; when I get to the tail it comes off a lot easier. I did a ringtailed cat (my first one) I was afraid I was going to have a problem with that long tail but it came out great.
will never be without STOP-ROT
THANKS