I really hate it when someone publishes a novel to try to explain themselves, unfortunately that's what I'm about to do. If you have no interest in the auto tanner or how it works, hit the back button now. ...So far it looks to be a worthy investment. I had an 'original' one from about ten years ago, It finally rusted out. Before the new unit arrived, I read a post about someone asking about who "Rhino Coated their drum". I told him that none of us knew about it, so he should try it and tell us what he thought. Since that time the guy got an answer to his reply. Now here's my 2 cents...
Rhino coat...spray on bed liner for trucks (and other things). Its a 2 part sticky crap substance that when dry turns very hard and adheres to almost anything. Note, sure looks slippery when wet, if its in your truck bed use caution getting in and out.
It is chemically resistance enough to stand up to any tanning chemical that we would normally use. (just how long is yet to be determined, but by the looks of it, a long time.)
Cost...The guy was 'at a loss' as to what to charge. Its $400.00 on average for a truck. He also said that there is a minimum charge because it takes 'X' amount in volume just for the gun to function properly. (he seemed sincere so I took him at his word) Cost was $150.00.
Was it worth it? In my opinion, Yes. The primary reason for the first unit's failure was due to rusting out. Both inside and out. The hard plastic liner on the first drum partially separated, but still continued to function. The amount of rust on the outside of the drum was mostly cosmetic, however, it did contribute as well.
On this new one, I coated the outside with a very heavy layer of Turtle Wax and wont remove it. I'm doing this as a preventive measure against the chemicals that spill down the outside of the unit, thus causing rust.
I also noticed that this drum 'seems' to be minus the plastic liner that the first one had. It looks to be paint on metal only. NOTE that I said 'LOOKS TO BE' as I really don't know for sure. That's why I had it Rhino Coated.
On a separate note. I have read a lot of questions as to what to use in this unit. Here is what I have been doing for the last 8 years or so.
Flesh.
Wash in Dawn and rinse.
1 pound per warm gallon water with manufactors tanning crystals.
After an hour...or two (sometimes I get busy)Shave and return.
Let turn for about 2 more hours (sometimes it sits over night if I'm forgetful or just tired and don't want to deal with it)
Spin out cape or critter, (Please note that I'm kind of the 'suspicious" type when it comes to home tanning) that's why I use the next step...Liqua-Tan the whole cape. I used to only do the face and incision areas without any problems..but if a little Liqua-Tan in these areas is good, why not the whole thing! I started doing this when I read a post (I think that it was George) who said that this "Tan" is not a tan at all just a pickle. Remembering Liqua-tans instruction...yada yada pickle, then apply Liqua-Tan. Bottom line, Its worked great for me without ANY problems so far.
Then freeze.
When ready to mount...
Tumble the cape in Corn Cob Grit to remove excess Liqua-Tan that got on the hair and remove any 'White Fuzzys" that clings to the whiskers (a problem that only some of us encounter).
Final step is wire brush the flesh side of skin to remove grit, then mount.
I hope that I have contributed to this forum and not bored you to much. I have photos available for those who may be interested. See E-mail Addy above.
Mitchell Ulrich
Trappers Taxidermy
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"Tan" is not a tan at all just a pickle
on a scale of 1-10 what would you rate your tanner as far as quality and convenice thanks in advanced
on a scale of 1 -10 how would you rate your tanner for quality and convenince thinking about buying one but wanted some advice from someone that has used one for a while. thanks in advanced
sorry
i did same 3 years ago.all was well till i put a leaking tube of clear polyester hardener on it.i found one thing that will dissolve rhino.my machine is different as it has a shelf on it and motor is above table!by the way i had some blades coated by a local(who does mostly gov. contract work)none vave rusted exept very edge where i keep a little Rig that prevents rust.good luck!
Matt: That is what I was told. Cant remember by who exactly, but I do remember that I respected their opinion. If you are following the instructions that came with the unit, then I think that you wont have any degradation issues years later. As I stated before, I'm just a little bit on the 'quality control freak' side of things.
Rocky:on a scale of 1-10...I guess that it would be right about a 9. Heres why...If something goes wrong with a skin,its because "I" screwed up. When a tannery has a problem, I just' PAID' them to screw up (and sooner or later they will!) and I have little to no recourse. The usual reply that I got from them is"..if you knew the volume of skins that we processed you would understand our claim to highest standards and quality"...blah blah blah. Somehow I got this nagging feeling that what you just said is not going to impress my client when I explain why there is a foot long gash across the nose of his moose! Dont worry though, they are quick to offer a discount on your next order!
Other advantages are...not buying and them trying to get rid of 500 lbs of salt each year. A real problem if you live in a city. No worrys that some Anti working in the shipping industry is doing what they feel is their 'part' in helping animals by routing your order to some remote island never to be seen again.(I keep watching the show "LOST" to see if any of the cast are using my elk capes for clothing) You can save some skins that were never going to make it to a tannery. (I charge extra for just that reason)
Down side...cost of water/sewage...electricty and perhaps the biggest...Your time. From a time management perspective this is a real loser! You should be putting things together and makeing money, not spending your time on the machine(s) ie fleshing machine. BUT if your shop volume is not huge and you are a one man shop, as well as the reasons above, I highly recommend it. The views and opinions express here are my own and in no way reflect that of anyone who may disagree with me...ie,my 2 cents.
Mitch