Wildman Taxidermy
Dean Hendrickson
Pine, CO.
303 588-1869
Detachable antlers
The following procedure insures exact alignment of detachable antlers every time. This procedure does not require any special tools or techniques and takes less time then any other technique on the market today.
Items you will need:
Appropriate size and length of square tube and rod for the size of Antler being mounted. These should be a machine fit. 3/8) rod for Deer size and 1/2" rod for Elk/Moose size antlers.
1/2" Drill and large bits
Fiberglass / mache mix
Metal cutting saw
Do NOT cut the antlers off until your done with this proceedure. The hardest part of this proceedure is drilling into the antler. I have found that a large (7/8-1") regular twist drill works best using a large 1/2" drill.
Always use square tubing and rods, never round.
Step #1. Measure the widest point of your square tube (from corner to corner). Using this measurement, select a drill that is 1/16" larger then your tube. With antlers and skull plate fully intact, begin by drilling a hole from the inside of the skull up into the antler. This hole should be slightly longer then half the length of your square tubing.
Step #2. Tape off both ends of the square tube with duct tape. Mix up a small amount of Fiberglass/mache: First pour a small amount of Fiberglass into a mixing container. Then add the catalyst. After that is mixed, only then add mache so the mixture is to your desired consistency. I like it fairly thick. Next, pour this mixture into the hole you've drilled into the antler. Position the tube into the antler and work the fiberglass in place. About half or slightly less of the tube should be sticking out into the skull cavity. This half now needs to be fiberglassed in place also. Build up this end of the tube with fiberglass so it is securely in place.
Step #3. After the fiberglass has dried for at least 24 hours, cut off the antlers as close to the burr as possible. Use a metal cutting blade, as you will be cutting through the square tube that is fiberglassed inside the antler. Insert the square ROD into the ‘skull' side of the square tube and slide the antler onto the other end.
This will give you an exact fit every time without having to do any prior measuring or fitting. This should take about 15 min or your time (less the drying time).
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this way & it is a snap.
if the base of the burr is still fresh, an Irwen spade bit, or chipper bit will work also.
Your "correct" method works fine ,But in my opinion it's not the best way.
You know, I was sitting here thinking the same thing, especially with those nasty pedicels that overhang where the cut has to be. As they say in our industry, "There's more than one way to skin a cat and ain't no method really wrong if you can do it."
Well, don't be shy. Show us a better way!
With this thread and thread below I'm learning something today how about a couple more methods. Dr Z is has been fliting from post to post on an award high for the last few weeks, how about your method?
First and foremost, I don't jury rig. Square tubing is made by the ID and no square tubing made has the OD that the ID of another tube has. Even square rod stock seldom matches to a tight fit. I insist on a close tolerant fit and that can only be done with a machined part. McKenzie sells just such an item and they run about $25 a pair. They sell two sizes of them so you can pick and choose according the the antler size. That means that the cost of them gets covered in my charges to the customer. I charge $150 extra for removable antlers. That's likely a little low for a guy like Dr. Z, but it works for me.
Using the McKenzie machined pieces, here's what I do.
1. Measure the round endstock of the pin with a vernier or caliper. With the large size, this is 1/2 inch. Measure across the points of the square stock (not the flats, the corners). These are 1 inch on those pins.
2. With the antlers still attached, estimate the center of the antler where it attaches to the pedicel. Drill a 1/2 inch hole through the skull cap and into the antler as far as it will go.
3. On the outside, take a Sharpie or other indelible pen and mark 4 or 5 index marks down on the skull and up the pedicel to the underside of the pedicel.
4. Cut the antler off. With distorted pedicels, this can get very tricky in places. If so, use your dremel tool with a very fine drill bit. Drill dozens of pilot holes to contour your pedicel, but it will work in cutting the antler off. Set aside and repeat on the other side.
5. On your skull plate, take a 1 inch drill and oversize your existing 1/2 inch hole. (I DO NOT ADVISE the use of a spade bit. They wobble. Invest in a good machine drill bit. Hardware stores carry them for less than $20 that have the ends machined down to fit a half inch drill.) Do both sides and then mount the skull plate to the mannikin. If the square pegs won't fit flush with the skull, drill farther down into the manikin.
6. Drive the pins down into the skull plate. Guesstimate their positioning so that the flats are to the front or the points are to the front. It really doesn't matter.
7. Once seated, paint the interior square tubing with Vaseline. Wipe the top clean with a lacquer thinner wet towel and cover it with masking tape. Carefully pour a good and strong epoxy or fiberglass resin that has been catalized down into the skull along the sizes of the square. Let set overnight. Remove the masking tape.
8. Paint the outside of the square stock on the rounded pin with Vaseling. Wash the round pin end of the adapter with lacquer thinner and let dry. Mix a good epoxy and paint the inside of the hole in the antler. (Note: Your antler hole may not be deep enough to accept all the pin. If the antler can take more, redrill deeper, if not cut the pin.)Drive the pin into the antler until the machined square stock contacts the antler. Quickly move to the next step.
9. Push the square pin down into the square tube. Quickly align your index marks by twisting the antler on the skull. CAREFULLY remove the the antler from the skull. The close tolerant machine pin with the glue grooves will hold the pin stable and the Vaseline will allow the assembly to separate. Carefully lay your antler down until the epoxy kicks.
10. Once it has cured, reset it. You may have some metal exposed that separate your antlers, but it's unlikely. If not, use a quality bastard file and contour the metal.
These antler will NOT move once reinstalled. I usually mount my animals using only the skull plate but allowing aobut 1/8 inch of skin to protrude above the cut line. On elk this is particularly easy since they have a long pedicel. As soon as the mount is complete, I install the antlers and nail the hide temporarily so that the cut line will be covered when dry.
Thanks guys, these are so good I C & P into word and made into reference files.
In order for Dr.Z to get that "award high", you seem to be so familiar with, he would have to win the "high award". It's been quite awhile since this has happened.Getting spanked by a fish is a humbling experience.Don't confuse Dr.Z's fiestiness with an award high."Natoinals was supposed to be my tuneup fight.It turned into my Buster Douglas.It has however,lit a fire under me.
Don't confuse Mike's baiting with award fiestiness, taxidermy competitions are not Mike's cup of tea. Sorry I thought you were the cougar guy from Libby. Just trying to coax out info is all. So what's your method ? Inquiring minds want to know. (-:
Drill from the brain cavity through the pedicle and up into the antler with a bit 1/16 larger than the widest part of your square stock.Polish one half of your stock and rough up the other half.Wax the polished end.Mix a high grade resin with milled glass, fill the holes slide the square stock in waxed end first then fill the rest of the brain cavity with resin.Let cure, cut antlers just beneath the burr.Make sure you don't cut the metal.Once you are close to the metal all the way around slide a chisel in the saw cut and tap with a hammer,Viola You will have a snug fit with very little slop.Each set presents thier own little challenges and there are a few tricks I've learned along the way. But you should get the general picture.