Submitted by Glen on 11/22/99. ( firstname.lastname@example.org ) 184.108.40.206
Hi people got a cow moose that tapes out to 26 inch neck the hide has been comm.tanned and was y cut on head so as to have less stiching to do .problem is cant find a form that size have looked in all major catalogs can only find forms in 30 inch class dont care if its a bull can fill horn block.But not going to stretch 4 inches any ideas would an elk form work im in a delemer here, any in put will help thank you all Glen
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This response submitted by John Bellucci on 11/22/99. ( ArtistExpr@aol.com ) 220.127.116.11
Really... You've got to be kidding, right? You can't figure this one out? Use the available mannikins and headforms out there as "TOOLS"!
You don't go inter-species crossing, you work with what there is. Buy the smallest face and reduce it all over. I'm not going to explain how, you should know that by now if you're working on moose. WASCO carries a tape of Mannikin Alterations with Calvin Farner. There is a wealth of information in there on headform alteration. Get it, study it, learn from it ... then go for it.
Just ... don't go trying to use an Elk as a stand-in for a Moose. It's not just the neck size that's different, but all of the structural proportions are different as well! Eeeeeee ... it gives me the shivers just thinking of it!
Good luck to you ... John B.
This response submitted by Pacemakr on 11/24/99. ( email@example.com ) 18.104.22.168
I'd love to find an exotic form that actually fits. Stretch the hide as much as you can. Measure the space needed to shave down, and use a rasp to evenly make the form smaller where it's needed. You might need to cut more to get an accurate measurement. Moose stitching is easy to hide. Reach your arms inside the neck and stretch hard. If it's thinned down as much as can be, you'll be amazed how much it'll stretch.
This response submitted by John Bellucci on 11/24/99. ( ArtistExpr@aol.com ) 22.214.171.124
Pacemaker has some good advice there ... especially about additional stretching of the hide.
There is something further you can do to soften or "break" the fibers of the tanned skin. It is as simple as grabbing a section of hide, and dragging it across the edge of the work table, in much the same motion as shining shoes ... though not quite as fast, of course!
Another hide "breaker" that can be utilized is an ordinary mounting stand. With the mounting plate locked into place on the stand, you drag the hide -- a section at a time -- across the edge of the mounting plate.
Remember, you'll be working the sides of the cape here, from the lower center of the neck, out to the edge of the skin.
Remember too ... you do not apply so much pressure that you risk damaging the hair roots, or tearing the hide. Just a simple pulling of the hide across the edge surface is enough to break the skin fibers.
You'll be quite surprised how much additional stretch you can get out of a hide by just breaking the fibers of the skin.
As for altering the mannikin ... rasping is one way to go, but unless you're adept enough to follow and/or restore the anatomical surface of the mannikin, the best route here is to reduce the size from the "inside-out."
After another trial fitting of the hide, make a note of the gap that exist ... if there is still a gap. Here, you will remove the head. Next, you need to take the measurement of the gap, divide it in half, and apply this half-measurement to each side of the centerline of the neck area ... and the shoulders if they're giving you problems as well.
**Do this to the top and bottom -- EQUALLY.**
Now cut down the marked lines so you may remove the center section of the foam. If in fact the shoulders must be a part of the reduction, it is necessary to first remove the backboard from the mannikin. It will be reattached later, after the alterations are complete.
If the shoulders are not part of the problem, then your marked lines should be drawn on in a diminishing angle from the front to the backboard ... in other words as an elongated V-cut.
**Care must be taken to follow the lines carefully.**
If the mannikin was completely cut in two, it can be reattached by first denting the inner surface of both halves with a ball-peen hammer, then applying a thinned coating of catalyzed Bondo/fiberglass resin mixture, lining up the parts, and binding them together until set.
This same reattachment can take place for the elongated V-cut method. Just be sure to bind the mannikin REALLY tight so it doesn't spring apart while it sets.
Don't make the Bondo mixture too "hot," but allow it to set slowly. This will insure the resin locks well into the foam.
With a cow moose you don't have to worry about reinforcing the neck of the mannikin with any lumber, so there is no need for this step. In a bull moose however, you would need to hollow out above or below the existing center lumber and install an additional piece to reinforce the alteration.
Order the mannikin WITHOUT a center supporting piece of lumber. I'm sure the supplier will accommodate you. Hope this further helps you out.
Best of luck to you ... John.
This response submitted by Carl on 11/24/99. ( firstname.lastname@example.org ) 126.96.36.199
you may try looking for some other suppliers, I have a listing for a Joe Kish moose with a 26 inch neck at AAA supply in Alberta
I am sure someone in the US must carry it as well.
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