i am building peir on a river using 55 gallon plastic
drums for floation and want to fill them with two part
foam.what density foam would work best or does it matter
and if someone shoots a hole in one of the drums will
the foam absorb water. any responce would be apprecated.
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You're going to need closed-cell foam. Contact the Jameson Company (800-424-9989) and talk to their people who can give you exactly what you need.
These are the foams I use to carve my fish bodies. I believe their main purpose is indeed for flotation purposes on docks. Square Edge is more durable. Both do not absorb water. You could cut up several pieces and glue together with spray adhesive (if you want, you don't even really need to glue them as the drum will keep them inside) to fill the void.
I believe Dow or Dupont makes the foam. You need to find a distributor in your area that would be willing to sell you a few pieces as Dow only sells by the truckload...
If you live near any sort of large urban center you should be able to find one. These are the fellas that sell fiberglassing supplies to bathtub, hot tub, shower and boat building shops. If they arent listed under plastic or fiberglass, then try calling a hot tub building plant and ask them where their source is. FOr alight mark up they might even sell you some of theirs directly to you. They ususally have 2 part isocyanate foams to be used as fillers and insulators. A 10 gallon kit (5 gal A and 5 gal B) costs me about $300 Canadian. I've never tried blowing off an antire kit at once... but Im ASSUMING you could probably get say 3 drums filled out of that? And no it wont absorb water if someone shoots it. You may also want to contact a home insulation company and ask if they do spray in expanding foam applications. If they do ask them to spray your drums for you. It's the same stuff - just mixed as they spray it so it's already starting to foam when it hits the surface.. then it finishes expanding. They could have a job with lots of drums done in an hour! It would probably cost you less paying for their labour than the buy the supplies yourself too!
There are lots of options.
I have a 70 ft pier in one of my bigger ponds that consists of 7 approximately 10 foot sections of treated lumber, that are supported above the water with 12 foot glavanized posts, that I purchased from Menards. (You can see a picture on my website of it on the page titled, "Pictures of our pond fish." )
The top is just treated decking and the stringers are 2 by 6's. The stringers on each section alternate narrower or wider to fit inside each other and are bolted together. I bought the whole thing used (minus posts and sleeves from Menards) from a friend for about $100.00 It would be a piece of cake to build one like this.
I bolted all the sections together and bolted on sleeves for the posts every few feet, and then pushed it all out on the ice with a tracter. Once on the ice I marked where the sleeves are and then pushed the pier aside (easy to do on the ice). I then made holes with an ice auger where all the posts would be, and alligned the sleeves back over the holes. I slid the posts into the sleeves through the holes to the bottom and drove the posts in as far as I could with a pile driver and sludge hammer. After all the posts were driven in I wedged the pier up off the ice as high as I wanted it, and tightened the bolts on the sleeves. Whalla! Permanent pier on the pond (shifting ice not a problem on small ponds). It's a little wobbly by not enough to be a problem. I would be glad to send you a diagram if you wanted one.
Another option that I will be pursuing on my trout pond is a floating pier. Since the pond is so small I want to be able to take the pier out when we harvest. I can just see a 10 lb. brown headed for the pier post! I will be using Dow's floating billets as mentiond that are used for fish carving, and here is a link below for plans size etc. Dow should be able to direct you to the nearest source.
As far as barrels they work too. I like the stability of the foam better and I can build the pier around the foam. Lots of options and it doesn't have to be expensive. Some commercial kits out there are out of this world in price.
compared to the billets. JMHO.
I usually hunt big water for ducks, for several years now I have had the idea of building a duck blind that floats, one I can drive the boat into.
Seams that many ducks raft up in the middle of the lake, this would allow me to set the blind up and motor out to it, leaving it out on the lake for day to day use.
Then after season pack it up on my trailer and bring it back.
I do have a blind that I made out've conduit & aluminum coil stock that is pop-riveted to the conduit. With aluminum, hinged half-lids on top. This blind is dropped onto and bolted to my boat in about an hour every duck season. I've got chicken wire pop-riveted thru the coil stock into the conduit. Then, I've g-tied grasses to the chicken wire to feather it out.
But, I hunt public land - so I need to be able to carry my blind around with me. It's very warm - I fire up heaters if need be, and it tows at 75 with no problems. And all my gear stays in the boat so I'm ready to go in a heartbeat.
If you're interested in doing something similar, email me and I can get into more detail (fishspecialties at yahoo.com)