The stuff gets every were,and the worst type seems to be from finshing repos, my work shed is small. I have tyed to do differant thing at differant times, such as painting in the morning and sanding or grinding one day and painting the next, but am thinking af making one closed off place for all dusty things, tumbing,sanding,and the like. How have some of you coped with dust, wood work for boards and bases is real bad, here in oz all these things have to be made in shop and it makes a lot of dust. I were a sesporater so thats coverd.
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and what i like to do is do everything in steps. i make sure that i do all the dirty work all at one time. if i did everything as soon as i am ready to mount, the finish product would be a very dirty one. just try doing everything in a assembly line that way it'll be easy. but when doing it that way do two or more species, that way your actually getting something done.
another way to have a nice finished product is avoiding blowing the dust around or even sweeping it. try wetting it first and then picking it up.
last but not least, to reassure that my mounts (mammals)are free of dust i like to blow it with my leaf blower giving the mount a more natural look. but if your painting your fish when there is dust in the area thats a big no no! you dont want the dust showing up in your paint jobs. hopefully this helps. good luck! one more thing, BUILD A SEPERATE ROOM FOR THE DIRTY PROJECTS!
you go to the Kansas show you can probably learn how to keep the dust in the wind.
I do all my grinding (mostly fish repro's) outside. If you have a small work area Its a must. I have a 110 outlet behind my building (house) and I plug in my dremmel tool and always use a dust mask. Then I simply hose down the area that has dust build up. Even in the colder weather, its worth doing outdoors. Keeping it in a confined area can definitely cause respritory problems.
The smaller air born particles that float around for days are a serious problem. Not only are they a health concern but it can be a real pain just getting all over your "stuff".
I used to test and grade air cleaners for a living so I know a little about them. My job was to certify the CADR (clean air delivery rate). The efficiency of some of these things are phenomenal! Some of them can remove just about all detectable air born particles in under 15 minutes.
It is my firm belief that no taxidermy shop should be without one. I have had one in my shop running 24/7 since I began taxidermy. Breathing all that borax, macha and fishfill dust just doesn't interest me much. Many of the air born particles remain floating around indefinitely until they are caught by your lungs.
If you plan on getting one, here's what I would recommend:
1.) HEPA filter is a MUST! Don't even consider one that doesn't use a HEPA.
2.) Measure your room size and get one bigger that you think you need. The recommended room size will be printed on the box.
3.) The CADR is the most important information to look for. The box will have a AHAM (Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers) label printed on the back. It will list the CADR of Smoke, Dust and Pollen. Look for the highest SMOKE rating you can find. Smoke particles are the smallest and that is the ones that remain air born the longest. The dust and pollen rating really don't mean much. If it catches smoke it will catch the dust and pollen.
4.) Ionizers. If you get one with an Ionizer, keep in mind that it is rated with the ionizer "on". If the ionizer is "off" the efficiency can decrease dramatically. Ionizers break a lot too and you never know if they're working or not.
5.) HEPA filters are very expencive. If you select one with a course "prefilter" that can be catch the larger particles before it clogs up, your HEPA will last much longer. Just take them outside and blast them from behind with your compressed air. You wont need a new HEPA until you blast a hole in it.
6.) The bigger the better. Large ones don't need to be cleaned as often. I only clean mine twice a year. You will be amassed at what comes out of it.
7.) Stay away from those expensive "filterless" ionic things. The CADR should be at least 100. If it doesn't have a CADR it's because it couldn't grade high enough to get one. If it does't have a CADR rating it is an expensive piece of junk. No exceptions!
A GOOD air cleaner is a very wise investment. It will cost you from $75.00- $300.00
I have a floor grate in my work bench hooked up to a shop vac,got the idea from a Berry article.. Otherwise tape up poly in a little booth and vacume during and after A shop vac nozzle close to the grinding during helps a lot also.. I have vacumes hooked to my mitre saw,band saw,and bench grinders and sanders..It too little to set all up but its not the total answer either.
I am not sanding outside when its -60 toooo cold up hear fer dat..
Cleaning is costly but it does help..Every once in a while I walk around the shop drinking a soda and dragging the shop vac wit me. Ive gotten pretty good at drinking a pop and walking.Well its either that or hire some to clean I aint got time.I need to skin sumtin.
I was gonna say the shop vac thing too. I have a central vag rigged up in my studios so whether Im in the molding/casting room or finishing room or wherever - I can use that one vac as my dust collector. I have holes drilled into some of my work benches and run the hose up through that. Some screening over the end keeps larger particles from entering it. Although I use the central vac - a shop vac would do the same thing - but like Wally said - ya gotta drag it around with ya. If you have room outside for a small attached shed - you can put the shop vac and a large compressor in the same room and sound proof it - then run your vac and compressed air lines inside. It keeps your work space clean, quiet and gives you more space!
Thanks I will give the ideas a go.