Submitted by Scott on 1/11/00. ( ) 220.127.116.11
Being new at taxidermy, I mounted 2 bobcats last year but was very disappointed in the quality of the tanning and the fact that I had to sew up so many holes after there return from the tannery. This year I was thinking about trying to liqui-tan them myself instead of using the tannery again. Any comments from anyone regarding the use of this product would be greatly appreciated. I've noted in other forum discussions that there appears to be many ways or techniques to use with this product. Is any one of them far superior? What about prepping the hide after tanning? Washing? Etc.
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This response submitted by Kenneth on 1/11/00. ( email@example.com ) 18.104.22.168
I have used commercial tanning of bobcats before with good results, but like you said, the product is just not that good. I've quit using tanneries when I can. I normally use the liqua-tan, but Brian Harness of AR. told me he had been experimenting with a 50% denatured alcohol and 50% water mix on his small to medium mammals with unbelievable results. So, I said what the heck and tried it. I skinned the cat as normal, rough fleshed, and turned the face / ears. Then I place the cat in a bucket of the mixure for 1 day. I removed it, wire wheeled it and placed it back in the mixture for about a half a day. Then I rinsed it well and tumbled it. It seemed really nice. When I mounted it, it was by far the best skin I have worked with. The cat was the nicest I have done. I am currently using it on all my small to medium mammal with great results. I don't know if I would consider this a tan as much as preserving it. I am not for sure about any long term problems. I would definately use and excellent hide paste. I prefer Buckeye. Good Luck
This response submitted by Ripper on 1/11/00. ( firstname.lastname@example.org ) 22.214.171.124
I watched Roger Martin's video on bobcats a while back and tried his liqua-tan method (which really is about the same as with deer) and it has really worked well for me, just be sure and hit it with the salt as you are skinning it, in Texas where I live it gets pretty warm even in January and you need to get the salt process started as soon as you can
This response submitted by Frank on 1/12/00. ( email@example.com ) 126.96.36.199
Sorry I would not use alcohol and water then mount. Sorry not here still a raw hide. If you want to use this fine then use some DP with it. But you still have a raw hide.
Liqua tan or EZ-100 would be fine to use on a cat. Just follow the directions and you'll be fine. Better to work with a tanned hide that will kast loger than a raw one.
This response submitted by Kenneth on 1/13/00. ( firstname.lastname@example.org ) 188.8.131.52
The denatured alcohol method is just something I have been experimenting with. Some of the most popular taxidermists in the field are using this method. That is why I said it was worth a try. The cats are fabulous to work with. I can't promise anything. I am not for sure about the raw skin statement either. I know many emblaming fluids contain methanol. Schools and biological supply houses use it to preserve lab specimens. It works well on fish and it a excellent degreaser. I am not for sure about all the technical stuff involve. Frank is correct about the liqua-tan. They do mount out fine. If you are just starting that might be your best bet. Good Luck.
This response submitted by James Foust, M.D. on 1/15/00. ( email@example.com ) 184.108.40.206
If you use alcohol to prepare a skin for a mount and nothing else, then you have cheated ther customer. Alcohol is only a preservative. It does not tan the skin. It will preseve a biologial specimine as long as that specimine is immersed in the alcohol. However, to soak a skin in alcohol, ands the make a mount is very bad prectice. The alcohol will evaporate, and then all that is left is a dried skin. This is not even as good as a salted skin. In the realtively short term all the hair will fall out. Alcohol tan = no tan = no preservation = hair falls out in a few years. Very Bad.
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