OK, this is a question to the "experts." I do a large number of lifesize in a year, whether N. American, African, or Asian. But the big bears KILL me. In the last two weeks I mounted (from tanned skin to drying stage) 2 polar bears, also a lifesize audad, and 3 sheep shoulder mounts. I figure I have about 36 hours apiece in each bear, with alterations of size, shape, open the mouth, legrods and internal support, prepping the skin--you know, the usual. (I work long hours) Everyone wants a bigger bear than they bring in. So... I stretch the skin length and width on the form, cursing the whole way.
I rehydrate the skin, sweat, freeze, thaw, and sweat for several more days. Sometimes I'm afraid I will loose the skin. How do you get the maximum amount of stretch out of the skin? How long does it take you to mount these large bears, be it grizzly, polar, or brown bears? (Remember these are the big one's, 7 to 12 foot) What kind of prices are you charging? We get from about $3,000 to $4,400 for these sized bears.
I know the easy answer is mount the bear the same size it really was, but some of these customers make millions of dollars in a year. I conclude these bears are a phallus symbol for these customers, so we give them what they want.
Your questions and comments are welcome.
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The big browns and grizzlys take me about that long. I get help and stretch width wise then lengthwise, then widthwise again. THEN I measure the cape. They are always tight and they seldom if ever fit the molds (I use Rayline exclusively unless for some reason they don't have the right size) I resew the inevitable belly cut up all the way down to the knees and elbows with the fur inside. Then I take a magic marker and draw a line from between the ears to the top of the tail with cross marks about every 4 inches. Then I open the backs. If they sew together, I keep the stitches close. When they don't, I tie off and begin making 2 inch stitches (that's right, 2 inches) When the hide comes back together, I tie off and resume normal stitching. When I finish, over each open space I spray Windex inside the hide and law a soaking wet paper towel over it. Then I either cover or wrap the towel with plastic freezer wrap for 2 days. When I remove it, I begin with one inch stitches. If it comes together, I keep them close, but when they won't I tie off and begin one inch stitches again. Repeating this over the course of a week or so, all the seams will come together. Big bears routinely gain and lose up to 30% of their weight during the course of the year. With big bear hides, patience is a virtue that can't be rushed.
My prices are pretty close to yours thought the 10 and 12 footers go a little higher.
You gave excellant information - well done, and thank you very much!
THe foregoing comments were good, but you can also get more stretch by using a round steel. John Bellucci (sp?) does a good job of explaining how to do it in his book "Art of the Big Cats." I've used it ever since reading the book, and rarely do I have a size problem.