Anybody every try bondo as an adhesive with celastic earliners? I have used Killer Glue previously as my earliner adhesive and have had mixed results at best. I tried a thin layer of bondo over a McKenzie celastic earliner last week and the ears look fantastic, no drumming and seem to be holding up. Any thoughts?
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I beg of you to search the archives on this topic. I don't mean to sound at all rude or condascending but there's a wealth off discussion on said topic there and most of it points to true fact that *Bondo is a filler, not an adhesive. I used it in ears for 15- 20 years but would never do so again, not since *Epo-Grip has come out with their fine line {no pun intended} of epoxies that truly do what they are made to do, please research the subject on the archives.It's "holding" now but I truly believe with temperature and humidity changes it may well let go, I truly hope for your sake I'm wrong but It was my experience.
I use bondo thined with fiberglass resin on celastic earliners and have always had great results. You can buy the bondo with the white cream hardner and add your own color. As bondo not being an adhesive why do all the suppliers recomend it for ALL manikin re- attachment?
David, why did Jonas always sell paper mannikins and why do they STILL offer them? Same response. Read the label on Bondo and see where it tells you it's an adhesive. It's FIBERGLASS RESIN for cripes sake and it has micro balloons added as a FILLER for Body repair. Did any of you ever wonder why when you buy a fiberglass boat that separate pieces are BOLTED TOGETHER. Cast as a single piece, strength is assured but any uncast fiberglass parts are bolted together because it will not even bond to itself. How many times have you ever repaired a fiberglass canoe with a patch kit and had it delaminate? Bondo holds cut mannikins together only because of the millions of open cells in the foam which grip the Bondo. Remember, it explicitly tells you to COAT BOTH SIDES AFTER CLEANING DUST OFF. Once a skin is mounted over the mannikin, the cut is irrelevent. Now if you still think it's an adhesive, I want you to take two 8 foot 2x4s. Paint the last foot of them with Bondo and clamp them together. Let them set overnight if you'd like. Then take your 15 foot timber and lay it across a ditch. Call me when you get to the other side. Now, take epoxy and do that. Guarantee you'll make it across if the BOARD DOESN'T BREAK. Now THAT'S the difference between Bondo and an adhesive.
So far I haven't encountered any drumming, even some done for several years. Are you saying that drumming will eventually take place with ears done this way?
Anyone who says Bondo is not an adhesive ,try this mix bondo with a little polyester resin to make it watertery now add catalyst and pour on both hands wait 10 minutes and try and pull your hand apart.
David, why did Jonas always sell paper mannikins and why do they STILL offer them? Same response. Read the label on Bondo and see where it tells you it's an adhesive. It's FIBERGLASS RESIN for cripes sake and it has micro balloons added as a FILLER for Body repair. Did any of you ever wonder why when you buy a fiberglass boat that separate pieces are BOLTED TOGETHER. Cast as a single piece, strength is assured but any uncast fiberglass parts are bolted together because it will not even bond to itself. How many times have you ever repaired a fiberglass canoe with a patch kit and had it delaminate? Bondo holds cut mannikins together only because of the millions of open cells in the foam which grip the Bondo. Remember, it explicitly tells you to COAT BOTH SIDES AFTER CLEANING DUST OFF. Once a skin is mounted over the mannikin, the cut is irrelevent. Now if you still think it's an adhesive, I want you to take two 8 foot 2x4s. Paint the last foot of them with Bondo and clamp them together. Let them set overnight if you'd like. Then take your 15 foot timber and lay it across a ditch. Call me when you get to the other side. Now, take epoxy and do that. Guarantee you'll make it across if the BOARD DOESN'T BREAK. Now THAT'S the difference between Bondo and an adhesive.
We arent saying it WONT stick, but at least most of us are saying, in a roundabout way is, you are being paid by someone to make SURE it sticks, and bondo is a filler, not an adhesive. You arent sticking those parts together as much as you are filling it up so it doesnt have anywhere else to go. If it works, thats your choice, and it sounds like youve made that choice. I prefer a much thinner ear myself. I have not found ANY combination that WONT EVER drum, but all things considered, liners with thin glues are tops for me, anyway...
By the way, most of us do not use bondo to reattach large forms either, just small stuff like noses, etc. Ive been foaming them for years.
A friend of mine is in the auto repair business and I hang out there when I get to town to see him. I asked a factory rep about the practical use of bondo in my business. He didn't recommend that I use it as a glue for any long term application. It will work OK to hold a rebilt form together until you get the hide paste and the hide on it. I use it all the time, but only when I know that something else will do the long term holding. Like Bill Yox I prefer to use foam when I rebuild a form. It is easier to use a rasp and shape the form with out the hard bondo seams.
Silicone is very sticky too, until it sets up and then it peals right off. There are too many better products out there that are designed to hold things together. Use the right product for the application and you will be way ahead.