Is Stop Rot compatible with dp?
Thanks,BP
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to answer your question, YES! It's no real secret, magnesium silicate hydroxide, and hydrated sodium borate, talc and borax, are the primary constituents of most dps. Expect no problems in combination.
Ohio taxidermist Jeff Pusateri was the first person to use STOP-ROT in conjunction with dp on mammal skin. Jeff came in on the field testing comparatively late in the game. He, along with Dan Jennings, and Paul Lyles, both also from Ohio, were field testing STOP-ROT on fish at the time.
A client had taken a pronghorn on a day when the temperature was in the mid 70s, and left it in the back of a pickup truck until the following day before skinning. Then it was from out west to Jeff.
Jeff said when the antelope was brought in to him, he could run his hand down it and the hair would slide out. Jeff told the customer that he wouldn't be able to do anything with it, then he thought of the STOP-ROT. To be fair to Jeff here, when Jeff was given the STOP-ROT, he was not given the benefits of our experiences, nor was he given much at all in the way of instructions for use. That's the way the field testing game gets played.
Jeff said that when he put the STOP-ROT on, it stopped the slipping just like that, snapping his fingers. He dped that one, kept it around for three extra weeks, then sent it home with a happy customer.
At that time, we were planning on moving on to bird skins with STOP-ROT in conjunction with dp. I had already worked with it on feathers, looking for any negative results. Jeff's use wound up causing us to move on to bird skins quicker than we had originally planned. An article with Dan Jennings and STOP-ROT use on wild turkey can be found on TaxidermyReference.com.
Becky, if you fool around and come up with some more uses, let us know!
THANKS. BP
Glen
are you saying, that stop rot, will stop and reattach the hair on an
antelope that has already slipped?
I'm not talking about hair that's firmly attached, but hair that is loss already.
Your post said;he could run his hand down it and the hair would slide out.
there's so many of them it's hard to tell which ones are firmly attached, and which ones are loose.
Seriously now. I'm sure you have seen this a time or two. You know the kind of capes that are what you would normally consider past "iffy", the ones that you pick up and hairs will fall out, or the ones where you run your hand over the cape, and hairs come out with every pass of the hand? That's the kind that STOP-ROT has been known to save consistently.
Another area that it has been working in that I'm sure you have seen before, the spot epidermal slips where the epidermis acts like it wants to peel around the bald area, it has been stopping additional sloughing.
STOP-ROT doesn't replace anything that is already missing.
STOP-ROT was developed to PREVENT the above conditions from occuring. Frankly, I had no idea initially as to what extremes it would work at. I have regarded such usage as "bonus". At this point, I still have no idea as to what all can be done with it, but I do know that there has been a lot of possibilities that have opened up.
One area that DEFINITELY needs more exploration is STOP-ROT and freezing. Skins and capes like I described above definitely benefit by being frozen after STOP-ROT treatment. Fresh skins and capes, and skins and capes that have been STOP-ROT treated, pickled and neutralized, and then frozen have all shown some positive results. That doesn't count some degree of protection afforded by STOP-ROT as a green cape or skin thaws.
You can go to TaxidermyReference.com and follow all the STOP-ROT links to get more information, and you can also go to
www.whitetailsystems.com/productline/STOP-ROT.php
that will keep you reading for awhile.
wilson, didn't I read in one of your past posts that you make the world's best biscuits and gravy? I can make STOP-ROT, and I can make some mean gravy, but my biscuits suck. Maybe we could do some tradin'? LOL