considering using wood stains on mammals such as bear. it does an excellent job on coloring pads and the skin. My main questoin is there a chemical in the stain that can damage the skin in the future? has anybody else used it.
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First off, wood stain is an oil base and certainly won't hurt anything though it may leech out into areas you're not wanting to be colored.
The "why" comes from the fact that you have paints that do a superior job and especially through an airbrush, you can control the coverage completely. The lacquer base has an absorption quality as well, but the carrier evaporates leaving the color untouched. The additional cost of wood stain and the limiting of color availability makes my lacquer paint much more appealing to me.
I would paint it, but Geoerge their is wood stain that it latex
( water based ) I know I purchased 5 gallons of it for our deck.
Yes water based
and just to show you rascals this ain't Mickey Mouse, I sent you each a jpeg of a nose pad that was done several years ago.
First off, this pad was done with Min-Wax. Min-Wax Natural at that. After drying, a satin tung oil was used for the final finish.
The leeching that WILL occur is a bonus, the stain will wick back into visible dry skin areas that you could not finish otherwise.
Dextrine hide paste was used under the pad. Mixed as thick as possible and still stick. Nose of the form, and the flesh side of the nose pad were both "buttered" heavily with the dextrine. The nose pad was then simply "placed". Tuck the undersides of the nostril wings and floor of the nose and scoop out excess dextrine.
Staining was done by simply using a liner brush and allowing the stain to feed into dry areas. It doesn't take very many drops of stain, or very many minutes. This will probably need to be repeated two or three times. If stain body is thick enough when dry, one coat of satin tung oil will suffice.
This will not work with all tanning systems, or all acids. If oxidation has taken place because of acid activity, you've already lost your pigments. If skin areas are damaged, you're screwed to the wall as well because of not being able to hide the repair. That's when the OIL PAINTS come out. BUT, by encapsulations you will slow down or prevent oxidations of the pigments involved.
From the stand point of mammal foot pads, if the pads are damage free, and are not damaged by tanning process, this same technique makes the best foot pads I've ever personally seen.
If anyone else wants to see the photo I sent these guys, shoot me an e-mail and I'll send it your way.
I guess I could use licorice and bubble gum on them but it's not a method I would prefer either. I did get the JPG and it LOOKS as if it were stained. I prefer my deer noses to look glossier and for the paint to have depth on them. Real whitetails seldom have pure soot black noses, but rather a tinge of Payne's grey, pintail grey, flesh, and burnt umber to them. A stain is forever and anything after that is going to have to be topical. I might have used stains 40 years ago, and I HAD to use dextrine then. Now, I realize there are much better products available to hide the lack of talent in my work. I use them. JUST MY OPINION, however.
I'll show you a picture. I say that to one guy that comes in here and it makes him madder than Hell.
"Real whitetails seldom have pure soot black noses, but rather a tinge of Payne's grey, pintail grey, flesh, and burnt umber to them."
I just sent you a couple o' dozen photos of deer noses, several deer from two different states. How's come I'm only seeing the shades of grey and the big plump nodules on two of them. Look close and you may even be able to see that one of the bucks with the plump nodules also has flattened and dry nodules showing more black at a different time of the day.
Deer nose pads are like dog nose pads, they will change on you, and that can even be from diet changes.
Anyone following this thread, don't go thinking you're going to hit me up for the same deer nose photos I just sent George. If you want to take a look at the photo that George sez it looks stained, I'll send that.
Needs his damn glasses prescription brought up to date, either that or he's got a bionic eye and microscopic vision. The stain that I used is a translucent, bordering transparent stain. I did say Min-Wax Natural.
And don't go thinking we're in to some kind of row, I think we're friends, or at least until he started this nose stain business.
Wait a minute, where's Bryan and Laurier, they got jpegs. Does that nose look stained?
You see, I caveated my statement with "JUST MY OPINION". Argue all you want by I'm not about to change MY OPINION. Didn't say they "never" had all black noses, said they SELDOM had all black noses. MY OPINION. I like mine with depth like Bill Yox paints his competition noses MY OPINION. Don't like flat faded noses MY OPINION. A buddy of mine has a picture of a live doe in front of his stand in Pierceland, Saskatchewan with a holly berry red nose. Ain't painting my doe noses red either, but I ahve a picture of one. And I won't be using wood stain when I get there. JUST MY OPINION.
And Glen, we ARE friends. We just have different OPINIONS. LMAO
did the reference photos of the greater percentage of the REAL deer that I sent you look like the nose on the mount photo?
In MY OPINION I would like my deer to have big antlers and be able to cut the fried meat with a fork.
Politics belongs under that "Current Events" icon. If I sent you the picture of my red nosed doe, then 100% of all the pictures I sent you would have red noses. Correct? Like I really expected you to send me some that had noses like I'm talking about. RIGHT! LMAO
BTW, we do share that last OPINION. LOL