George

Submitted by Dave Hyer on 1/6/06 at 2:16 PM. ( daveh@whirlawaycorporation.com ) 68.249.226.167

I read in another post where you said a ventoral incision is what you use for lifesize. If you use this incision, do you remove the legs from the form and then reattach them as you go? If so, how do you reattach them. I use a dorsal incision and pull them on that way, but i'm always open for a better idea.

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Whats up Dave

This response submitted by AndyO on 1/6/06 at 2:21 PM. ( ajossola@yahoo.com ) 68.250.194.188

I read the same post and thought to myself maybe George was confused. I recall reading somewhere that he sews up the ventral cut and maked a dorsal for lifesize. Maybe I'm confused.

BTW, I mounted up the bear and it turned out pretty nice. Thanks again for what you went through to get it to me.


I think its exactly that

This response submitted by lance on 1/6/06 at 2:55 PM. ( ) 141.150.207.188

I think what he was saying, and I do it too, was naturally all bears come in with ventral cuts. If you sew up those cut inside out with a wip stitch, or circle stitch as Gerge said, then make some marks on the back side of the bear with a sharpie or something. Just straight lines in a couple places to line it all back up. Make a cut down the back of the bear from head to tail(remember this bear is inside out) turn the bear wright side out, and then moutn it up like a dorsal cut mammal using the lines you drew to line up the skin. What this all does is makes that ventral cut vertually invisible being that alot of bears are standing and the stitching is right in your face.

At least this is what I think Gearge is saying cause I do it


OK, here it is from the horses ass

This response submitted by George on 1/6/06 at 3:30 PM. ( ) 64.12.116.134

On life size BEARS, I like the dorsal incision as it is easly hidden and it takes out all that guess work trying to match up around the brisket and tail areas. I turn the hair side in and sew it all back up except the lower legs. I take a yardstick and mark a line from the center of the head to the center of the tail. Every 6 inches I make a cross mark so I can keep the hide aligned. Then I cut the center line and turn the hide right side out. I lay it on the floor, set the form over it and lift the hide like a childs pajamas and sew.

For DEER, I prefer the ventral. Cutting deer mannikin legs can be problematic if you don't think outside the box. I wedge cut the shoulder and head off and then I cut the body form in two with a similar wedge cut. Everything is laid out flat on a table. I mount the shoulder portion and I then turn the rest of the body skin in a loop up behind the neck and head. I insert the front leg half of the form and fold the rear half of the skin back up over it. Now I install the back legs into the skin. Follow closely now. I put Clear Paste epoxy on both sides of the shoulder cut and fold the neck down on to the front half of the deer. I align the wedge and pin the form till it cures. Once that is cured, I epoxy the body wedge and then fold the back legs and hips down, pin and let cure. My mannikin is back together, the skin is in place. I take hide paste and cover the form under the skin, put the mannikin in the mounting cradle and sew it up. No muss, no fuss, never stain the sheets.

I keep telling you guys this ain't rocket science. Don't confine yourself to the obvious all the time. Try my method ONE TIME and I'll guarantee you that you'll never dorsal cut another animal. it works on ALL animals. The biggest challenge is going to be the idea of working "upside down" so that when you fold the segments down together, the legs weren't reversed in the skin.


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