Just a note to let people know what I think of snake skin tanning.
I tanned a snake with Rittels, and the skin came out fairly pliable, and nice. I took another skin, and soaked it in glycerine. It came out VERY pliable. I mean it was just like when I skinned the snake!
Granted I only tanned two snakes, I might have gotten lucky with the the glycerine, but after what I saw I can't justify buying Rittels snake tan for tanning a snake skin for a wall hanging.
The Rittels snake is only 2 years old, and seems the same, and the glycerine skin is now over 10 years old, and still perfectly flexible. It still seems like it was just removed from the snake.
I know a bunch of snake experts will get on here and say I screwed up, and possibly so, but the fact remains the Glycerine worked for me, and so did the Rittels.
I suggest getting two snake skins, (or cut one in two) and try an experiment yourself.
Just my two cents worth on snake tanning.
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Hello, did you mix glycerine with alcohol prior to use? I have a recent thread in the forum telling how I got the wrong glycerine and have some problems...<please comment on it>
I'm interested in your post here because I'm confused by the many people who profess that glycerine treatment is only good for preserving and is not the same as "tanning" - yet, you claim the glycerin-treated skin is pliable after many years - doesn't that make it useful for craft projects such as a wallet rather than just a wall hanging?
Glycerine is a lubricating oil. You just oiled a dry skin or kept it from drying by soaking it. You coulda come out cheaper using plain antifreeze.
The reason that your piece is flexible - is because Glycerine never dries - but - it also never bonds to the skin either. That's why it isnt used for belts and wallets - because if you put stress on it, you can literally squeeze out the Glycerine over time! Heat will also drive it out too!
So - if youre satisfied to just sit there and stare at it - its fine - but avoid using it for crafts! I think I can safely assume you dont like oily belt loops or pockets.
no drippy belt loops, please!
So after I use the glycerine treatment (or antifreeze method) - is there a process and material I can use to make the skin suitable for a craft project?
Will anything still bond to the skin after making the glycerine/alcohol application - or will I have to soak the skin in some other solution to get the glycerine out first?
Please, anyone offer a recipe I can use other than suggesting I purchase some snake oil - or continue to berate or promote the glycerine/alcohol method as you like - remember, I would like a useful piece of leather out of a rattler skin...thanks!
You've asked a question and been given the ONLY viable answer. Anything esle is a waste of your time AND YOUR MONEY. If you want it done right, you already know there's only one answer.
by george, I think i've got it...antifreeze, huh?
So is this a "tanning" method, or do you still need snake oil?
Antifreeze is as old as original paper forms. Since anti freeze has been made safer and had much of the alcohol and such removed, it is useless, and also has lubricabnts in it which prevent you from gluing the skin, similiar t what glycerin does. Why is it people are too DAMN CHeap to spemd the 15.00 and do it the right way!
I'm sure I am too CHEAP to just go out and buy a snakeskin headband or belt which is why i'm trying to learn something new and convert a few local rattlers into something useful ...
So, now that we have established that - is the antifreeze really unsuitable because it is formulated differently?
I guess the lubricants in antifreeze are a problem and I can certainly see that would be the case for glycerine as well.
So what kind of treatment will not repel glue or other adhesives?
(without going to that $15 bottle of magic please...)
It is two bottles and also requires salt and vinegar. And to answere your question! NOTHING!
So it doesn't matter what you use you will have problems with adhesives, or it doesn't matter what kind of antifreeze you use? (results are the same...)
Nice to know you get two bottles of potion for $15 though.
Do you need salt and vinegar if you go the antifreeze route?
Forget all those other ideas you have in your head. Anti freeze is good for putting in cars, not on snakes. Use the proper chemical treatment from Rittels and do the job right. The End.
in the intrest of keeping an old craft alive how did people "Tan" snake skins before there was Rittles?
i would like to buy Rittels but i have no way to since i dont have a credit card. Does anybody know of any other good way to tan skins?
A couple of years ago someone on the forum was nice enough to give me a "recipe" for tanning a skin with glycerin and denatured alcohol. I used it on several rattlesnakes with much success. I now have 2 new skins and cannot find my recipe. Can anyone help me? Thanks
Print the order form and mail it in with payment, or find a retailer and buy over the counter.
This thread seem dense to anyone else?
I was on this sight and read about the glycerine/alcohol 50/50 mixture. It sounded good, and some taxidermists I talked to said it would work. So for the past 8 days I'm been aplying the solution twice a day, and I remember the message said do the solution until the skin isn't greasy. My question is how long should it take, should I stop after a week and let it dry on it's own, or should I lightly rub the skin frequently until it is dry? I'm really looking for some help because this snake skin is important to me, and I want to make sure I'm doing everything right. If anyone knows anything please post an answer.