New Fleshing Machine Owner Needs Help

Submitted by Goo on 10/6/00. ( )

What's the secret on getting & keeping your blade sharp?

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please respond

This response submitted by maxwell on 10/6/00. ( )

somebody please respond to this question,i need to know the answer too. thank you.

The art of sharpening a fleshing blade?

This response submitted by Gerard Tessier on 10/6/00. ( )

Fellow taxidermist,

Sharpening a flesing blade is "THE MOST" common problem I have seen.
Check the next issue in Breakthrough, I answer many questions related
to machines. To get to the point, the left hand sharpener is not raised
high enough and the right hand, to mutch. Results: your blade is pushed
down more and more. If you are dooing this mistake, it will be harder and
harder to get your blade to bight into the skin.

To correct this mistake, force yourself to over-doo-it with your left hand
sharpener and never use your right hand more than one degree past horizontal.
Remember that one quarter of a second is all you need to push that lip
up or down. Alternate with right and left hand sharpeners.

A good operator with a quebec machine can get a few hundred capes
with the same blade lip. If this is not your case. give me a call
1-800-567-5080 and I will try to set you strait.

Hope this will help some of you.

Fleshing Machine

This response submitted by George Roof on 10/6/00. ( )

The quickest way to dull one is to shave a salted hide. Tears hell out of the edge and sets up FAST corrosion problems that eat at the blade. Also doing wild boars or hide with sand on them also wears the blade faster than normal. To keep it good and sharp, you need (1) a carborundum stone and (2) a set of sharpening steels.

With the steels, you can keep the edge keen by having a large diameter steel for the bottom and a smaller one for the top. Push in and up under the lip. This cleans and lifts the edge. Now take the small steel and lay it flat across the top of the blade. This brings the edge down to whet. Leaving the edge curled up invites gouging or cut through. If you feel vibration when using your top steel, it means the blade is rippled and you need to true it up by using greater downward pressure on the steel. Always check for nicks when you finish. (Your blade guards should be no more than 1/8 inch away from the blade and you should be able to take 2 pieces of newspaper and cut through one without cutting the other.) This kind of precision is only available from the better machines sadly, but you should strive for that. Then you can make multiple passes without cut throughs and you can shave your hide to the optimum thickness.

If you tire quickly from shaving/fleshing, it means you are pulling the hide tighter in order to get it shaved. That means the blade is dull. I take the carborundum stone and clean the front and back faces of the wheel. Then I set the sharpest corner of the stone under the cutting lip. This hones the blade down. Then I take the sharpening steels to regain the whet.

If you do a lot of oily game (bears & beavers) you don't need to oil the wheel as often. For pickled and tanned hides, you need to occasionally wipe the blade to keep the corrosion from dulling your blade. Do NOT USE WD40. It is too thin and won't remain on the surface of the blade like a good grade of machine oil or the oil you use in pneumatic tools.

Where do we get these steels?

This response submitted by Beth on 11/4/00. ( )

I recently bought a sharpening steel and promptly broke it because it came with NO instructions whatsoever, and some other "info" said to "pull on the blade edge with such pressure that the steel will have quite a bend in it." If that's the case, why did the steel break? The blade also burred up the tip of the steel. Where can I find the proper tools and instructions? I can follow instructions IF I'm provided with the RIGHT ones. Thanks sincerely.

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