I recently got a Dakoda IV, I have try fleshing and shaving. When I did a deer hide, I did ok, I think I made two holes.....however when I try fleshing a coyote and a beaver and racoon I end up making so many holes I almost wanted to kill myself. I was watching the video that came with the machine, which is not of the Dakoda IV but insted is of the Dakoda II ( I think) , anywise I figure it will be the same just in small scale. I have try moving the blade around and stuff but I still make holes, sharpenning etc. What I am wondering, Do I just need more practice? or am I trying to shave and flesh the wrong animal. I mean it seems like it did a good job in the deer, but for the small animals it did not stand a chance.
My question for you is, when preparing coyote, beaver, racoon for taxidermy, do you use your fleshing machine?
for the people who own a dakota IV have you ever used for coyote, beaver. fox etc. sucessfully.
otherwise how do you shave small mamamls.
any other tips I will appreciate it
Leon
Hello Leon,
I think that there are 2 different as to the problem that you're having.
One might be the angle of the lip of the blade that you're working with. If the lip is turned up, The deeper of cut you'll make. If you turn the Lip down, The less of a cut you'll make.To tune, spray the blade with wd-40.Take the thin steel under the lip and turn it to the 10 o'clock position for no more than 1/8th of a second. Now take the 2nd steel to the top of the blade at a 9 o'clock position (Horizonal) and touch it off for no more than an 1/8 of a second. Repeaat this 2-3 times to hone the edge. If its still cutting to deep, take the steel and at the top of the blade, touch it off to a 8 o'clock position for no more than an 1/8 of a second. This will turn the edge down and reduce the thickness of the cut.You definately should be able to flesh your thin skinned mamals on a machine.
The other thing that may be the problem is that you might not be keeping the hide horizonal to the blade. you might be swiping it on an angle,causing the blade to take to big of a bite out of the skin.
Its also possible that you're trying to take to long of swipes with it on the blade,allowing the blade to bite into the hide.
The Dakota 4 turns at a much slower R.P.M.(900) vrs.(2,006)R.P.M.on your fullsize machines, allowing you a more controlled cut.
I hope that this will help you. If not....call me at (1-800)843-3320 ext 105 and I'll talk you through it. Or , you can always e-mail me at this addess.
Have a ood day and good luck to you.
David Belanger>Product Specialist-VanDyke's Taxidermy Supply
Hey we all do that, sometimes we egt a hide thats fine other times, well sew and sew.
Make sure the rear gaurd is even with the blade the front gaurd shoul set just a fraction below the blade. NOW using 3 in 1 oil apply a coat ing to the blade using a paer towel, put a drop or two on your tuning steel bring it into the blade always rolling to the outside of the lip, next reoil the steel and roll it across the flat area pushing from the back to the cutting edge, keep doing this untill you are cutting fewer holes, practice practice practice, it takes time.
Even once you flesh a yote or cat the next one may need the blade adjusted for that specific hide. Always oil your blade when finished for the night, I find my blades last three times londer doing this. John C
Leon,
I made a typing error on the R.P.M.'s on the larger machines. I typed in 2,006 when i meant to typr in 2,600.
Sorry. I never was a good typer.......or speller for that matter.
Have a good day,
Dave>VanDyke's
Hi Leon,
After I introduced the fleshing machines to the taxidermy trade
27 years ago many different methodes were proposed and machines
invented to suposedly present a better mouse trap.
WHO HASE THE WRITE ANSWER?
Should you work from the back or the front? Blade size: 4 inch, 7 or
12 inch? How wide a blade lip 1/16, 1/8, 1/4 ? What angle: 90 degrees
70 or in between? Hard carbon steel, soft crb. steel. or stainless?
Push it down to 8 oclock, 11 or 11.55? Should your sharpeners be
delicate, 3 inch nail or sand paper? I herd them all.
In my opinion 95% of this is sales pitch. Trying to look better. It's
not based on experience, knowledge and practice adapted to the taxidermy
trade. A full time, professional flesher has neads that the small
taxidermist would never have, sutch as replacing a freshly sharpend
blade every day.
I have proposed a fleshing competition many times. Would it not be
interesting to compare and demonstrate all these different techniques?
Surely some would be better than others. Why accept that unefficient
machines be sold to unknowing customers. Why am I the only manufacturer
that lets people try his machine in conventions? I explaine in detail
how I suggest it should be done, I demonstrate my thchnique and let
you try and point out mistakes.
At the world show, I will have a hands on machine in my boot, everyone
is welcome to get his hands dirthy. In my seminar, Thersday evening,
I invite every other manufacturer to question me and discuss techniques.
This is how our trade has advanced in leeps and bounds in the last
30 years. Competition is good, lets compare.
Leon,
All these guys know a lot more than I do but I will tell you what works for me. I also tried shifting the angle of the blade for cut depth but I just seem to lose the edge. I would also cut the hide "testing" the depth of cut. Now I just angle the GUARD to cut deeper lower down the blade and more shallow further up. I know just how deep it will cut by where I place the skin on the wheel. Low=deep on deer neck, higher=shallower on deer face. I can shave very thin small mammal skins if they are pickled. I don't like fleshing rubbery, raw skins on the flesher, I am faster and better with the beam and fleshing knife. Maybe it's all in what you get used to. Find some practice skins and "go to school" on them. Best wishes.