Has anyone tried any of these SPRAY TANS on the market?I recieved my new Joe Coombs catalog a few weeks ago and see he now offers a spray tan and sodium sulfate.This is the same system Ben Mears uses.It must work if the great Mr.Coombs is offering it.Right?I would like to here from some one who has expiremented with it.
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Sometimes we dont have a choice, doing deer for another studio is one of them. At this time having used both brands, I know I will never use it on my personal deer or game, to many slipping deer and small game.
It is possibly ok for those deer that are from the really deep south with little hair. BUT NEVER use it on a deer with good thick hair. Even our mid south deer slip using it once and a while. But you have to use what the other studio wants.
I think spray on tans are taxidermy St. Christophers medals. They smell like Bascyrl and they perform like water soluble DP and denatured alcohol might. I use a paint on tan and that's about as low as I think it's possible to go with true tanning. Submersed tans ae the top of the line, obviously, as they insure complete saturation of the tanning salts into the capes. I'd suggest that if you want the spray ons, you use the sodium sufate (instead of salt) and stick to the steps explicitly ONLY on fresh hides that you are sure have not started to spoil.
I can tell you from experience that Ben's Spray Tan will work if you follow the instructions. I have started using it almost exclusively on my deer and I am yet to have any slippage due to this process.(had one deer brought in with flies on it that had already layed eggs in ears and nostrils!) This is the process I use and it works great for me: 1)cape deer and remove all chunks of red meat 2) split lips, eyes, nose and turn ears 3) apply a moderate amount of sodium sulfate and roll up hair side out and let it sit overnight in the fridge(I have found that letting the cape sit overnight in the fridge works best for me) 4) the next day I take it out and shake as much of the SS out as I can and then wash the cape in dawn dishwashing liquid with basacryl added 5) after washing and hanging for about ten minutes to drain, I tumble the cape for 15-20 minutes 6) I then remove from tumbler and shake out throughly to remove the sawdust and then flesh/shave the cape 7) after fleshing/shaving, I then hang the cape up flesh side out and spray with the spray tan. You can then either roll it up and let it sit for 10-15 minutes and mount or you can put it in the freezer to mount later.
I know this is not a TRUE leather-producing tan and I don't expect it to be, but it sure does provide a cape that mounts great with great stretch. I have also found that the area around the eyes tends to hold its color better. I would suggest giving it a try and see what you think.
I would have to say that if you prep your skin and thin it you can
basically Liqua Tan a skin and let it sit for 10 to 15 min then mount,
This is a product that works very fast and has been around for over 15
years. As far a a comparison you can get just as good a tan as a
submersible and most of the time even better.
I have tried every imaginable method around, and I really like the Ben Mears method. I am not having many of the problems that I have had with other tans (preservatives). I get no slippage, a lot of stretch, great color, and minimal shrinkage. It is not nearly as time consuming. I will quit using it as soon as I find a problem associated with it. But for now, it is my choice. Good Luck
i have been using BEN'S spray tan for 3 yrs, now, and as was said above, you use the sodium sulfate, and the directions on the bottle, you can't go wrong, and much quicker, for the guy doin 40 - 60 deer heads a yr. you have complete control over your work, from start to finish.i've been in this business for a long time,17 yrs., and i'm sure mr. coombs is very close to the same, does he use his own product? i would like to know.i was told once you have the sodium sulfate on your skin, your safe.