I just ordered supplies to get back into taxidermy and have a question. I ordered citric acid, Pretan 110, Kemal 4, Protex presoak, Basacryl NB-KU and Liqua Tan.
Can these be used together, or should the citric acid be used by itself?
I also read in one of my supply catalogs that if Pretan 110 is used that it isn't necessary to pickle the skin. Just soak it in the pretan, pull it out, shave it and return it to the pretan solution.
The first deer that I mounted turned out pretty good, I just wish that I had a fleshing machine.
Since I'm just getting back into taxidermy can someone give me some advice on fleshing by hand...can't afford a fleshing machine.
I know that my results would be better if I could flesh them mechanically, but since I'm just getting started again I want to be satisfied that the rest of the work that I do is good enough to justify the cost.(if that makes sense?)
I'm my own worst critic.
Thanks for listening to my rambling!
Return to Category Menu
For the actual shaving, this is all you need. To make a good fleshing beam, contact a trapper or other taxidermist, or DNR. Get an expensive pairing knife (good steel) for turning lips and ears. Practice shaving on surplus deer skins, "the back ends", and small game road kills. Save brisket areas shaving for after pickle or tanning. ( Will be less likely to make holes after pickle.)
It won't take long, a day or two of shaving deer skins with a boner knife on a good fleshing beam, to become proficient at shaving capes. Good luck.
Like you hundreds of new taxidermists start up every year. Just for your information check the article I wrote in Taxidermy Today , Sept issue. I address that exact problem. What to expect from different machines, who can justify one , mistake to eliminate and there solutions, etc.
This article is in my web page www.atreide.net/fleshing