Users of Krowtann 2000.....Respond

Submitted by Ken on 09/20/2002. ( )

I would like to read some user comments concerning this product. It sounds to good to be true! Does membrane have to be removed with first fleshing before placing skin in solution? What are steps for auto tanner? What is used to moth proof? What keeps skin from cracking with age if no oiling is required? Thanks, Ken

Return to Tanning Category Menu

I'll keep my EZ-100 thanks!

This response submitted by Shovelhead on 09/21/2002. ( )

Has anyone researched what these skins will look like in 20 years?


This response submitted by Dave on 09/21/2002. ( )

I tanned a deer hide with it first, the process is somewhat similar to the way I have been tanning for 3 years, except the crow tan is
already mixed.I was curious so I bought a bottle of it. First I tanned a deer cape, the tan was nice, but the hide shrunk
and pulled while drying. If I were to use it again I would oil it after. I tanned a bobcat with it also and it turned out great. One thing I learned from
Bruce Rittel is after tanned, cut a piece of scrap section, If it is white all the way through, it is tanned. If it is brown inside, it is not.

I have had very good luck with small mammals

This response submitted by John C on 09/23/2002. ( )

It works very well for small mammals, I have not used it for deerheads.

Most of the shrinkage people get with any tan lack of proper fleshing and not using a great hide adhesive. Epo-Grip would have stopped the shrinkage.

Final Fleshing

This response submitted by Steve Colf on 12/18/2002. ( )

Does the final fleshing have to be done after the hide has soaked in the Krowtann solution? Fisrt step is to rough flesh the skin, turning the eyes, nose, ears and eyes. Wouldn't the tannning solution be more effective if the hide was fleshed and ready for mounting? Common sense tells me that the tanning solution would better penetrate a thin hide versus a thicker hide and then performing a final fleshing. Any thoughts?

Return to Tanning Category Menu