I would like to read some user comments concerning this product. It sounds to good to be true! Does membrane have to be removed with first fleshing before placing skin in solution? What are steps for auto tanner? What is used to moth proof? What keeps skin from cracking with age if no oiling is required? Thanks, Ken
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Has anyone researched what these skins will look like in 20 years?
I tanned a deer hide with it first, the process is somewhat similar to the way I have been tanning for 3 years, except the crow tan is
already mixed.I was curious so I bought a bottle of it. First I tanned a deer cape, the tan was nice, but the hide shrunk
and pulled while drying. If I were to use it again I would oil it after. I tanned a bobcat with it also and it turned out great. One thing I learned from
Bruce Rittel is after tanned, cut a piece of scrap section, If it is white all the way through, it is tanned. If it is brown inside, it is not.
It works very well for small mammals, I have not used it for deerheads.
Most of the shrinkage people get with any tan lack of proper fleshing and not using a great hide adhesive. Epo-Grip would have stopped the shrinkage.
Does the final fleshing have to be done after the hide has soaked in the Krowtann solution? Fisrt step is to rough flesh the skin, turning the eyes, nose, ears and eyes. Wouldn't the tannning solution be more effective if the hide was fleshed and ready for mounting? Common sense tells me that the tanning solution would better penetrate a thin hide versus a thicker hide and then performing a final fleshing. Any thoughts?