THE MORE I READ, THE MORE SCARED I AM OF RUINING A CAPE.
I HAVE MOUNTED SIX DEER HEADS AND HAVE MY SEVENTH IN THE FREEZER (A MONSTER 10 POINT FOR MY 17 YEAROLD BROTHER)AND I DON'T WANT ANYTHING TO GO WRONG.
I HAVE USED A DRY TAN POWDER FROM [a supply company] TAXIDERMY AND OVER TIME IT SEEMS LIKE THE EYES AND LIP GETS SOME SHRINKAGE. AFTER SKINNING I WILL FLESH THEN SALT AND APPLY THE DRY PRESERVE POWDER. RE-SALT DAILY
TILL STIFF. REHYDRATE IN WATER, SALT, DRY TAN, LYSOL, AND DAWN SOAP. DRY HAIR (THE DEER'S). RE-APPLY DRY TAN POWDER THEN MOUNT. I HAVE NOT HAD ANY HAIR SLIPS, SPOILS OR ANY MAJOR PROBLEMS.
THE DRY TAN POWDER DIRECTIONS SAY YOU CAN SKIN, FLESH, APPLY DRY TAN POWDER AND MOUNT RIGHT THEN.....I WANTED TO TRY THAT, THINKING IT MIGHT FIX MY LITTLE BIT OF SHRINKAGE. THE MORE PROBLEMS I READ ABOUT IN THIS FORUM THE MORE SCARED I AM OF TRYING SOMETHING DIFFERENT.
AM MY ASKING FOR TROUBLE?
ANY DO'S OR DON'T'S WOULD BE GREAT! THANKS IN ADVANCE.
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If you want to DO it right,.. Don't use a powder tan, Send in to a tannery and have it tanned right or learn how to tan, Lutan F is one good method. If your going to mount deer, you might as well roll the sleeves up and quit the shortcuts, you WILL be happier with the results.
Dear A.J. You refer to your method as tanning but it is actually only preserving. Im pretty sure most top notch taxidermist would agree that the days of dry preservative are slipping away. Some may disagree but oh well! I would strongly consider learning to pickle and tan yourself or use a good commercial tannery. Dont be intimidated by tanning, learn the important basics, particuraly proper cape preparation and the importance of salting properly. Tons of info on differant pickles and tanning products, I personnaly like a citric acid pickle but also like saftee-acid. I also use Liqua-tan for my tanning oil, but there are many good options. You should find less shrinkage problems with a properly tanned cape opposed to dry preserve. Just my opinion though, good luck......Jeff
First stop using all Capital letters.
No stop doing all that crap to the deer capes. I cannot believe any have made it, you are just lucky!
You have used so much crap on the hides, the mess has burned your nose, killed the ofactory nerves.
LOL about all you have done, it would be simpler to tan a hide than go through that crap.
The reason you are getting shrinkage is related to a few things.
1st. The crap you do.
2nd. is not thinning the hide properly i.e. fleshing
3rd. The hide glue. Sxitch to Epo-Grip HIDE ADHESIVE.
Since you need some simple help, try this.
Split and turn, flesh as good as you can.
Ben Mears Spray tan. Salt the hide, rinse and spray the inside of the hide very well. spray some around the nose, eyes, lips.
Sand your forms and mount it, just do the antler area ear butts and seam.
Mix a 2nd batch and finish the face.
Now mix a third batch of EPO=GRIP and cover the whole form. Staple the back.
Now wet it down with denatured alcohol work any air bubbles out or stab it with you sewing needle.
Make any final adjustments with in four hours.
The next day the glue is set and the deer skin will not move, if you did it this way.
Who told you to do all that other crap?
I have also used this companys dry preserve on everything from squirrells to deer to africian stuff.I do agree that a pro tanned hide is easer to work with and better but use both.I have mounts that were done with the dry preserve from over 10 years ago and look just as good as the ones I have done with all kinds of tanned hides.I just freeze the deer cape un till ready to mount it and thaw then flesh and aply the powder then mount.you can flesh if you want and have time before freezeing.If I have a salted skin I soak and make sure I wash all salt off and dry untill damp and aply powder and mount.Don't salt and rehydrate if you don't have to.Just follow the dirrections and you will be fine.shave the skin as well as you can and pin any areas that you think will shrink.also let the mount dry well before any finish work is don on it.It takes some time to dry when useing powder preserve.Drying time will very depending on temp and thickness of the skin.Deer I useually let dry real well for a month or so before doing any finish work on them.hope this helped
Flesh it, preserve it, then mount it on a well sanded form using Epo-Grip hide adhesive. I don't freeze mine with presrvative on it because the only time I did I had alot of trouble getting it on the form, guess it shrunk while in freezer (shrinkage - reason for an excellent hide adhesive). Other than that I haven't had any problems with it. Even had a piece of elk hide that had preservative on it, out in the yard that had been rained on several times that never slipped (just left it out there to see what would happen).
But you can always try tanning. It's not that hard. I've done both, but personally couldn't tell any difference in the finished product. Hope this helps. BP
is supposed to be bad news, from what I've read? Check the archives.