Hi! I would be grateful for any information on home tanning. I have a salted sheepskin on the floor which has a heavy wool coat. I would like to tan it as a rug. I am in Australia and am especially interested in an old tanning method that uses the bark of the black wattle(acacia)tree.However any info would be appreciated. I believe I need to flesh it, then wash it several times, dry, then start on a tanning process. Is this right?
Thanks, Justin.
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I don't know how to say this any other way: you're in way over your head.
Earlier this week, we told another person that tanning a sheep hide is not a home project if you're looking for a consistent professional look. Sheep have lanolin in their hides naturally and it must be removed prior to any tanning. You are correct in that all vestiges of red meat have to be removed and then the hide gets salted until no more water can be drawn from the hide. MY suggestion would be for you to send it to a commercial tannery at that time.
I'm not sure about the acacia tree bark, but it may have tannic acid as the oaks and quebracho. I just don't know about that one. Leeching that acid out done by boiling the bark, but you're dealing with a primitive method at best. I'm not familiar with facilities available "down under" but since sheep are a major commodity, I'd think you'd have access to professional tanneries that would give you a much better product that you seem to be daydreaming over.
I did tan some sheep skins years ago, & George is right , they are not an easy hide to do. If the wool is longer than 1.5 inchs the skin will rip while fleshing, to get the lanolin out, wash it in kero, that works. I used to use the old chrome tan from Leidrieters. But it is no longer available, If you need more info, email me direct.
I have tanned 100+ pelts for rugs seat covers and made my self a vest. I used Chromitan FM used k2303 degreaser all done in a drum. I am using kemal4 to start with and my pelts look a lot better than before. I have just started a new bach and got some damaged beaver and coyote, as well as beaver tail. Everything is looking great so far they went into the pickle last night.
Hi. I have been bark tanning my rabbits hides using oak bark. All you need to do is collect bark of a tree that contains a high content of tannin and add hot water to leach the tannins out of the bark. Being from Canada, I use oak and sumac (the leaves of this as well). After 2 weeks of letting the bark tea steep alone, you need to add your dried hides. The dry hide will absorb the tannins faster than if it was wet. After about 3 weeks in the tea, the hides will be beautifully brown and tanned. The vegetable tannins will have extracted the mucous moisture from the hides making them imperishable (they won't rot). Once tanned, you can add neat's foot oil or castor oil and work them with your hands to make them soft. To remove the excess oiliness in the finishing process, tumble the hide in saw dust. This will abosrb the excess oil and make the fur very shiny and fluffy. I am presently tanning two sheepskins and I intend on following the same tanning process and I did with the rabbit skins. I do notice that the sheepskins are pretty thin and I have to take greater care when I am fleshing them.
In regards to the sheep beaver and coyote I tanned, well they came out just fine I did some beaver tail at the same time and they need some work but not bad, they came out stiff.
I would like to try to tan some rabbit pelts, but I don't want to get in over my head in expenses until I'm sure I can figure this out! I would like to start with the "natural" tree bark tanning if someone can help. If I can manage that then I'd likely move onto Luftan or some commercial tanning agent. Is the oak any oak variety? I have appx 50 acres of oak available. Live, water and pin oak. How much bark would need to be boiled,or steeped in what quantity of water to do a dozen skins? Would this result in bark "dyed" pelts or would they retain their original color, other than white? Does this "bark tan" method provide the same structural stability, durability and longevity as something like Luftan? I would appreciate any help any one can give, I'm always open-minded and willing to change plans or try a combination or new way.
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