just bought a friendly flesher that had a well used blade on it, not very sharp. i shaved three deer and an elk with no problems at all. i orderd a stainless blade from reasearch an now i cut all kinds of holes. i tried ajusting the guards every wich way, with no luck. i seen in the archives that the lip might need to be tuned, so it dosent cut so deep. seems likely that that is my problem but im not shure. i need more light shed on the subject. how do i tune it down?
thanks!
lee
Return to Tanning Category Menu
You should have gotten a pair with the machine at some point in time. They are tempered steel. IF you don't have any, order some. You can use a two concrete nails until they arrive. There are many great articles with pictures showing exactly how to tune your blade and this is something you'll need to do every time you use your machine. It amounts to turning the cutting edge of your blade down a few degrees so that it doesn't "dig" into your hide.
You mentioned changing blades. You might need to change guard adjustments if the new blade is bigger around and exposes more blade edge...
george,
where can i find these articles and pictures? i do have a tuning steel.
lee
They both had superb articles on tuning the blades. You might contact Van Dykes Customer Service and ask if they have a booklet for sale that comes with their Dakota line. It works for all machines.
I THINK Gerrard Tressier of Quebec has a tape on doing it, but I'm not sure and don't know how to contact him. I'm SURE it's in the archives, however.
Lee
First like some of the others said ck your gaurds. Look from the direction you are passing the skin. The guards should have the same round outline as the blade. There should be a spot where the guard leaves the blade exposed just enough to see the blade 1/16 ,1/8, 1/4 inches in depth and about 1-3 inches long, but it depends on the individual, some people keep the blade exposure down to a minimum untile they become better at fleshing, some use no guards at all. Also try passing the skin at different angles. Start with a 45 degree to the blade down to 90 degrees perpendicular accross the blade. Keeping the skin taut is also a big one. With practice you will get the feel of when to keep the skin taut and when you can relax it a bit.
Second part is the angle of the blade. Here again different people like different angles. Some are at 90 degrees and some are quite a bit less. It all depends on what you are used to. The nearer to 90 degree blade beval you will need to pass the skin at a sharper angle. For steels you can order them from Van Dyke's or use tungston electrods you can buy them at a welding shop they come in different diamiters but again its personal preference. Cut up broom handel into 3 inch peices for handels and drill a hole with a smaller bit than the steel and tap it in with a rubber hammer or block of wood. The steel should be 4 inches long with about 2 inches exposed. Light pressure and spin them in your fingers so the blad is not on one part to long. Low angles of the steels work best.
Hope this helps be sure to look up the other information listed above and the arcives then its trial and error. Deer flat skins are good to practice this on they are often cheap or free.
Paul
PS
I can try to take some picturs and email them to you when I can.
How does that help the edge? Why not try a screwdriver? (LOL, I actually saw a guy do that once at a trade show in North Carolina)
Here is the best thing you can do to make a homemade steel. Go to the local welding supply and purchase a couple of sticks of 7/32" diameter by 7" long welding rods. Try to get the 2% Thoriated kind made of Tungsten steel. May not be able to get the thoriated anymore since it has a small amount of radioactivity to it. However, you do need the Tungsten.
Then, carefully grind it through in a couple different lengths into the size steel you prefer. DO NOT cut it with a pair of wire cutters, that will send stress fractures through it and you will have pieces flaking off when you use it on the knife.
Then use a fine wet rock that you can spare from sharpening your pocket/fillet/hunting knife and work a groove into the rock by rubbing the steel on it. It takes some time, but you will end up with a smooth, bullet-shaped point on the end of the steel that is perfect for steeling your knife. Then drill a hole in the end of a piece of a wooden dowel (I prefer oak from the Lowe's here in town-99 cents) and insert the steel into the hole with a little Elmer's wood glue. Be very careful when you tap the steel into the hole because you could risk breaking the steel at this point and have to start all over.
The steeling technique is very involved and will require some practice to develop. The general idea is to insert a bottom steel into the groove of the turned edge and catch the top edge with a top steel. Try not to cross your steels because that causes stress on the edge and it will develop a very ragged edge as the metal flakes off. Experiment with it and don't get discouraged when your knife keeps making the "railroad tracks" on the hide. Steeling a knife is a talent that is learned through practice.
Good Luck,
Lonestar