I have been reading bout the use of Lutan F. My question? Why do you nutrilize after the pickle? I use Chromitan FM I deflesh, wash, pickle for 36-48 hrs (formic acid) then add the Chromitan FM in two stages, adjust the ph as needed etc. I do not change the bath between pickle and tan. I use a 4X2 tanning drum. I like this method as it does not require me to handle the hides dripping with pickle. I am tanning sheep skins, beaver, deer, etc. I would like to use Lutan for the white skins instead of the blue green from the chromitan FM unless I put them through the dyeing process after which I have done.
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Robert,
I am fairly new to this board, but I think I can answer this one. There are about 150 more knowledgable guys and gals here, but I think:
Your ph using during the pickle should be low- 1.5 to 2 or so (I am not sure with formic, but it should be about as low). Lutan works best at a higher ph, around 4 or 5 (jump in here guys for the exact details), so you need to neutrilize your hide in order to establish and maintain that ideal ph for the tan. Can't blame you for not wanting to touch that pickle- formic is not nice stuff. There are many safer acids (including pickling crystals which come with a Lutan Kit from Van Dykes). Bruce Rittel or George or John C can give you more definitive answers, but, hey hope that helped!
Mike
So is there a problem with just raising the ph in the pickle and adding the Lutan F. That is how I do it for the Chromtan FM.
The situation is that once my pelts (50lb at a time,10 sheep skins) are in the drum I like to leave them there. I do my fleshing in the salted stage. Is it nessary to change the bath from a pickle to the tan? I aso find that Chromtan is cheaper than Lutan $60./55lb for Chrom. $200 for Lutan F. I use 12lb of Chrom for 50lb of dry pelts. This works out to about 45 pelts per bag, or $1.33 per pelt. Can some one give me the break down on the Lutan F? How much moisture is in a pelt going into the tan? 50%? Thanks