o.k i just got done researching about the auto tanner. i seen a post that titled "Iffy Cape" John you gave some advise to the person about adding more tanning crystals to drop the p.h. then Steve answered saying that you were right. steve also answered that the p.h has to come up to set the fibers. my ? is, how does the tanning solution p.h change from 3.0 or below then going higher to set the fiber. also, what should the p.h be after i am done tanning? the reason im asking is that i have the auto tanner and i really like it. it really does save those iffy capes and i like the final product. if i can learn more about this product it'll be nice. thank you!
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I use a cup that holds 16 oz by weight of the original crystal, I use one cup to two gallons of water.
I have not checked the pH when using them as I am happy with the results.
I try not to make things harder than they already are.
You only use 8 oz. per gal. of water? I thought it was 16oz. per gal = 1 pound =16oz by weight of crystals to 1 gal. water? let me know on this maybe I am using to much Thanks Jack F
john i understand what you mean about not making things hard as they already are. i guess that i seen so much ?'s asking what should be the p.h in the auto tanner and it has been answered many times. i figured that it'll be nice to know what the p.h should be after tanning. and how does the p.h lock in the fibers when the p.h rises. the reason i added you to my ? is that you do answer alot of ?'s about the tanner. so i figured you or steve would know the answer.
That's what the original directions were. 1 Pound per gallon and 1/4 cup of oil. Where are you guy's getting supplies for this now, since McKenzie isn't carrying the auto tanner stuff anymore?
i get my supplies from Van Dykes (crystals and oil)