I thought that you would like this one. A customer brought in a red fox and said it was froze right away. I let it thaw out and used stop rot on the eyes, noze, ears and mouth (like allways do). All was going great untill I got to the sides of the fox! I started to smell a really stong stench! The insides of the hide was allready turning green like a mounain dew bottle (must have been sitting in the sun in the back of his truck alittle to long) so I called Mark and Linda at TR Supply, they said to try stop rot on the whole thing It was worth a shot, I was thinking what the heck I was going to pitch the fox out, so I painted stop rot on both sides and then finished skinning the fox out. I through the fox into my auto tanner with WTD tanning systems. I wanted to see what was going to happen. After a couple hours I checked the hide for slippage and smell. The hide was white and had NO bad smell! I forgot to call Mark and Linda to tell them that they were life savers and it saved the hide! If you think you have a bad hide or hide going bad, before you pitch it out YOU need to give stop rot and all the other WTD systems a try. It made my customer a repeat customer!
I wanted to say thank you to Mark and Linda at TR Supply for the great info on the White tail designer systems. It is a really great product.
Greg @ Wildlife Illusions taxidermy
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I have put fresh critters in the freezer and had them do the same thing. I also have use the auto tanners on many a green putrid smelling hide, just like you said they turn white and are fine.
This was well before STO ROT.
But, Mr. Creager, I can not help but to feel that you were trying to detract from the performance of STOP-ROT.
Steve, if you are reading this, do not take offense at what I address to Mr. Creager, I am in no way putting down the speed efficiency of the auto tanner.
Geeze, Mr. Creager, I can use my chemicals in a $5, 20 gallon, recycled plastic garbage can, and get those results.
As far as I know, if you enter stop rot as the search phrase in the archives, you will find only one negative feed back concerning STOP-ROT usage. I know who it was, I talked to him on the phone, before he even used it. He used what he thought was a "bactericide", which literally is no more a "bactericide" than I am, that contains a compound that I had associated with hair slip, hair burn, and epidermal slip many moons ago. STOP-ROT will bond with this compound, whether it occurs in the skin as a result of decompositions, or if it introduced in abundance by human intervention. BUT STOP-ROT will only bond to the point of saturation, if there is more compound than STOP-ROT, guess which wins?
I have had a total of 2 (two) negative feed backs via telephone, in both cases, the skin and the cape were known to be past "iffy". Of the two, one was done in an auto tanner. Just in sheer numbers of skins being treated, I would have to think there has been more that haven't been salvaged that I haven't heard about.
To be a little more scientific in our testing in actual field conditions, I would think we would need to go on some kind of all expenses paid, back packing hunt together (of course you have to take care of all expenses), I carry STOP-ROT instead of salt, and you carry an auto tanner. Sounds good to me. STOP-ROT has already been carried successfully on successful elk and bear hunts in lieu of salt. Again, Steve, if any of your people have already done this with an auto tanner, please accept my apology.
Over the past number of months, the reports and data have been rolling in.
Jim Gordon is sitting down there in the Gulf, dealing with heat and humidity on a daily basis like we seldom see here in the Mid-West, and has incorporated STOP-ROT into his routine. He treats with STOP-ROT as soon as possible, and follows up with Ben Mear's system on mammals, and also uses STOP-ROT on reptiles, and fish. I've heard necessity is the Mother of Invention, in this case Jim created what he needed to work in his environment.
Illinois taxidermist, Lee Moffit, has specialized in birds for a number of years. He figured out a rehydration solution of one cup of STOP-ROT to two to three gallons of water to rehydrate salt dried turkey skins out of Mexico.
Lee had also asked me, "If STOP-ROT will work on turkey legs, and fish heads, why wouldn't it work on a deer cape?" I told him there had been a bunch of us talking about it, but we were too chicken poop to actually try it, but it was on my list of things to do. He was setting me up, after I was through, he told me, "I've already done it."
Lee has a few more bird tips that he will be sharing with us as a website article in the near future.
Then I've had reports of STOP-ROT stopping slipping on tanned skins. I had already had some reports, but was skeptical. Hilton Eppley had a guy call me about a life size whitetail that was slipping (tanned). I had told this guy that it probably wouldn't work when he had told me how it had been tanned. This fellow had the "haven't got nothing to lose" attitude, and said he would try it anyway. Hilton called a few days ago, and said, "Chalk up another one, that guy mounted that life size!" Of course, dumb ole me, I had to ask, "ARE you serious?" He was.
The above doesn't account for the findings of the Unofficial Field Tester that posts here on the Forums,with furdressing applications.
Ritchie Ferrier and I will be giving you a report on an acid swell cape that he was going to pitch. He sent it to me to take a look at. I was going to pitch it when I saw it, but couldn't resist the challenge. I turned it around with FAT-B-GONE, Shrink-Tonic, and finished up with.......STOP-ROT! I'm shipping it back to Ritchie today. We're talking a swell of 3/8". Thinking nothing would happen, I failed to take "before" pictures. But, with the bonding that went on, I could then understand how STOP-ROT could possibly work on some of the already tanned hides.
And that's not all, I have been working with STOP-ROT again for the past number of weeks, sorting out these chemical properties, and potential applications, one thing at a time. I have accumulated a fair amount of data, some of which I will be sharing in the near future, accompanied by microphotography.
I am not really ready to make this "public", but I needed to give John a hard time, he doesn't get out much, and show him that STOP-ROT is nothing at all like anything he has dealt with before.
There are several people that I have as confidants, and confidantes, some of whom also frequent this Forum. The photos are real. In my style, I have reported to everyone on a weekly basis, which can always be either good or bad end results.
This page is password protected, http://lesion.homestead.com/index.html
enter stoprot for the password.
I will be changing the password tomorrow evening. Outta luck after that. Nothing but STOP-ROT was used........not even a water wash.
I believe we will be getting STOP-ROT reports for some time to come.
Remember to always wear gloves when working with STOP-ROT, or any other chemicals.
WHITETAIL DESIGNER SYSTEMS, INC.
I simply stated I had the Auto-tanner correct the problem without the use of Stop Rot.
I simply said I did that before STOP ROT, nothing bad was said about your product.
I have not used the two togather.
The Auto Tanner will infact turn a putrid green smelly hide, white and salvage it without STOP ROT.
This I have done on more than one or two times, many many more times.
I did not say Stop Rot did not help in the above case. Please calm down, I know many more people have used your product than can afford the Auto Tanner, Stop Rot has its place along with many other products.
Read the post again, I pointed out that I was giving you a hard time. If you had given me a valid phone number, I would have tlked to you days ago. I wanted you to see the photos that are on the web page, but wasn't going to send them until I talked to you first.
I still think the hunting trip field test is a good idea.
P.S. You did check out the photos, didn't you?
Just a little more info. on the cape Glen mentioned. I got a little lazy and decide to "boost" the concentration of my pickle since I wasn't going to be able to keep an eye on the pH for a couple of days. I was using Citric acid & I really burned this cape bad. It got really stiff in the neck and forehead area around the antler burrs plus it plumped to abour 3/8". I will start mountint the deer thurs. if all goes well. Cape was going in the trash, in fact, I had already bought a cape to replace it at my own expense. I work 12 hr. shifts and can't always time my taxidermy work as I would like. glen has some cutting edge products (he is also a great guy) which I have found will allow me a greater flexibilty without compromising cape quality. I plan on experimenting with some spare capes. Check out his system.