Does Anyone Know How To Degrease A Racoon Hide, I Have A Coon Hide That I Got Off A Trapped Coon, That I Stretched On A Board And Scraped Off The Fat, Then Put Dry Tan On Him...Well I Got Lazy And Didn't Feel Like Taking All Those Staples out Of The Hide, I Finally Did And He Is All Greasy, I Put Gasoline On Him And He I Still Greasy. And Alos Does Anyone Know How To Soften Hides? Any Imput Appreciated.
- Jeremy
"I'M NOT A HUNTER! I'm A Whitetail Population Reduction Specialist!"
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EZ-100 TANNING
INSTRUCTIONS
Rittel"S EZ-2000 Kit -- Using EZ-100 -- the newest and highest quality
tanning agent available -- and only from Rittel"S and our authorized
Distributors! This is a powdered Syntan Tanning agent that eliminates
environmental and personal handling problems. It costs less -- and you use
less -- to tan more! EZ-100 is your best environmental choice! It contains
no metallic components. EZ-100 is a Sulphonic Acid agent synthetically
manufactured.
EZ-100 tanned skins and capes are white leathered, soft, durable, and
stretchy! They look prime and clean! There is negligible shrinkage. EZ-100
tanned skins and capes are an excellent choice for Taxidermy purposes or
garment use. For rug work -- they are the best choice! Rugs tanned with
EZ-100 are washable and durable! EZ-100 has no shelf life -- they do not
fall apart with age!
Basic Preparation
Preparing a skin or cape for tanning requires the same basic techniques,
regardless of which tanning agent you may want to use for the actual
tanning process. To simplify the Preparation process -- I like to use 5
basic steps.
1. Skinning - Skin the animal. If it is still warm, open the skin or cape and hang it to allow it to cool for several hours.
2. Fleshing - Flesh away all the meat, fat and membrane next to the flesh. For garment or trophy wall skins -- light thin skins can now be stretched and air dried, and then relaxed later for tanning. For Taxidermy and general work -- I recommend salting.
3. Salting - Apply a heavy layer of Salt to the flesh side of the skin or cape. Fold it flesh side to flesh side, and hair to hair, and then place it on an inclined surface to drain for 1-2 days.
4. Drying - When drained -- shake out the excess Salt and reapply another layer of clean Salt. Again, fold it, and allow the Salt to penetrate the skin for
24 hours -- and then shake out the loose Salt, Spread the cape or skin out,
or hang it, and allow it to dry salted, then store it, relax, and tan it
later. Salting and drying is important -- it promotes rapid drying, leaches
out the unwanted liquids, and sets the fur or hair tight. Don"t avoid it.
You can use Iodized or Non-Iodized Salt. Non-Iodized is typically cheaper
in larger quantities, and therefore preferred.
5. Relaxing - When you are ready to tan your skin or cape -- place it in a strong Brine solution, or use Rittel"S ULTRA-SOFT (US-609) Relaxing agent, and soak them for 10-24 hours, or until they completely relax and become soft
again. To mix a Brine solution -- use 2 Lbs. Of Salt to every 1 Gallon of
cool Water used to completely submerge the skins and capes.
Salt Dried skins or capes usually relax easily -- but other types of skins,
usually air dried, African flint dried, and air dried greasy skins, do not
relax easily. For these types of skins, I highly recommend using a
Rittel"S ULTRA-SOFT (US-609) Relaxing bath. Add 4 Tablespoons of US-609 to each gallon of Water used to completely submerge the skins. For greasy
skins -- use 8 Tablespoons of US-609 to each gallon of Water. Soak the
skins or capes for 6-12 hours, or until they are fully relaxed. Then rinse
them well, and place them directly into the Pickle bath. Always remove any
Blood stains prior to Pickling.
6. Saftee-Acid Pickling
EZ-100 is compatible with almost all Pickling methods, including Oxalic,
Formic, Citric, White Vinegar and even Alum Pickling. All of them do an
excellent job, however I prefer using Saftee-Acid when you want to avoid
environmental and personal handling problems.
Saftee-Acid Pickling Solution -- Mix enough Pickling solution to completely
submerge the skins or capes. For every 1 Gallon of solution needed, mix:
1 Gallon of Lukewarm Water
1/2 fl. Oz. Of Saftee-Acid
1 Lb. of Salt (1 1/2 Cupfuls = 1 Lb.)
After mixing the solution -- test the Ph level. It should read below a 2.0
Ph. Usually it reads around 1.1 pH. Measure the Salt content using a
Salinometer. It should read 40% or higher. Place the skins or capes into
the solution, and allow them to Pickle for a minimum of 3 days. When
thoroughly pickled -- the skins or capes will appear translucent and
milky-white colored.
7. Shaving/Degreasing/Washing/Rinsing
After at least 3 days in the pickle -- the skins or capes can now be safely
pulled, drained for 1 hour, and then thoroughly shaved on a fleshing
machine. Although light furs, like Fox or Coyote can be tanned soft
without shaving, heavier skins such as Deer and the thicker fleshed skins
like Buffalo, Elk and Moose, definitely should be shaven. After shaving
all the skins in the pickle -- they should now be degreased, washed, and
then thoroughly rinsed -- and returned to the Pickle for at least another
24 hours or longer. ALWAYS return shaven skins to the pickle. This will
allow it to penetrate areas that are now exposed. Use Rittel"S Super
Solvent (SS-618) for degreasing, and Rittel"S Washer (RD-601) for the best
results -- use 1 capful of RD-601 to each 1 gallon of washing solution.
Wash your skins in this solution for 10-15 minutes and rinse. If
degreasing is necessary -- use 2 fl. Ozs. of SS-618 to each 1 gallon of
degreasing solution. Soak your skins for 30 minutes and rinse. Always
degrease Bears and other fatty skins. After preparing the skins for
tanning -- they can now be left safely in the Pickle for at least 2 weeks
before Neutralizing and Tanning. The Pickle is a safe temporary preserving
solution.
8. Neutralizing
When you are ready to tan -- pull the skins and capes from the Pickling
solution and allow them to drain for 1 hour. While they drain -- prepare a
neutralizing bath. For every 1-gallon of Water needed to completely
submerge the skins or capes -- add 1 Oz. Of Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking
Soda), or 1 Oz. Of Sodium Acetate. Place the skins or capes into this
solution and soak them in it for 20 minutes. Stir them while they are
neutralizing. After neutralizing -- Rinse them thoroughly. After rinsing,
allow them to drain for 1 hour.
9. EZ-100 Tanning Method
Tanning agents are very sensitive. Always check the pH before placing the
skins into the solution. EZ-100 tans at a pH level of 4.0 pH. Check this
pH level before placing the skins into it -- and also 30 minutes later. If
lower than a 4.0 -- add very small amounts of Baking Soda or Sodium
Acetate.
If higher -- add small amounts of your pickle or dissolved Citric or White
Vinegar acid to adjust it. When mixing your tanning solution, first add
the EZ-100 and stir it until it dissolves, then add your Salt. If mixing a
solution for tanning 4 capes, add all 4 capes to the solution -- not one at
a time over 3-4 hours or more. EZ-100 is a fast tanner, and the initial
capes or skins may deplete it before the last cape or skin is placed into
the solution.
EZ-100 Tanning Formula based on Wet Drained Weight -- After neutralizing
the skins or capes, and draining them for 1 hour -- weigh them. This is
their wet drained weight. Use it to calculate the amount of tanning
solution needed. It is the most accurate and least wasteful method. For
every 1 Lb. of wet drained weight, mix:
2 Quarts of Water
1/2 Oz. Of EZ-100 (4 ½ level Teaspoonfuls = 1 Oz.)
4 Ozs. Of Salt
EZ-100 Tanning Formula based on Water Volume -- After neutralizing the
skins or capes, and draining them for 1 hour -- some Tanners prefer to
simply mix enough solution to completely submerge the skins or capes. This
formula is based on the amount of water used. For every 1-Gallon of Water
used, mix:
1 Gallon of Water
1 Oz. of EZ-100 (3 Level Tablespoonfuls = 1 Oz.)
8 Ozs. Of Salt
It is extremely important not to overcrowd the skins or capes when using
the Water Volume formula. For either solution -- keep the solution at a
comfortable room temperature between 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit. Leave the
skins or capes in the tanning solution for 16-20 hours. Almost all skins
will thoroughly tan within 24 hours. NEVER OVER-TAN! After 24 hours -- pull
the skins from the tanning solution. Rinse them and allow them to drain
for only 20 minutes -- NO LONGER! If you have a dry sawdust tumbler
available -- tumble the skins or capes in it for 5 minutes maximum -- to
remove only the surface moisture. Then briefly cage or blow away the
sawdust with your air gun.
10. Oiling & Drying
When the skins or capes have drained for 20 minutes, lay them out flat,
flesh side up. Now apply the Hot Oil/Water mixture to the flesh side using
a paintbrush. For best results, use 1 Part Rittel"S ProPlus Oil (PP-301)
to 2 Parts of Hot Tap Water. Apply the Oil/Water mixture while it is still
hot. The skin should be at room temperature. Apply it carefully along the
edges and around holes. When oiled -- fold the skin or cape, flesh to
flesh, hair to hair, and lay it aside in a warm area to sweat in the oil
for 4-6 hours. Maximum take-up of the Oil will take place during this
sweating period.
For Taxidermy purposes -- after sweating, the skin can be briefly tumbled
damp dry, or toweled damp dry, and then mounted, or frozen for thawing and
mounting later. To clean up any oil splash into the fur or hair, some
degreasing solvent or Rittel"S Super Solvent (SS-618) can be added to the
sawdust. This will help produce a cleaner cape or skin, if a tumbling Drum
is used.
If you want to dry and finish the cape or skin -- after it has sweated in
the Oil -- open up the skin or cape and hang it to dry. Drying will depend
on the thickness of the flesh. Usually it will take 1-2 days. When it is
almost 95% dry -- begin to work and stretch the fibers with your hands or a
staking tool. Work the fibers until it is completely dry. If it dries too
fast -- dampen the flesh side with a sponge, put it in a plastic bag, cool
or refrigerate it overnight and then hang it to dry the next day, and work
it again when its almost 95% dry.
All skins can be tanned using EZ-100, however the heavily fleshed skins,
because of their thickness, unless shaven, will not allow you to produce
the extreme softness you may expect. In a Tannery, such skins are shaved
thin for softness. Some Tanners compensate for shaving by double oiling
after the first sweating period, then mounting the skins and capes, or --
letting them dry and then sanding them thin after drying.
11. Finishing
When the flesh side is completely dry -- use sandpaper or a rasping sheet
to clean up the flesh side and give it that professional look! Trim away
any ragged edges, and comb or brush out the fur or hair. Your skins or
capes should now be fully tanned and ready to use.
* * * * * * * *
CAUTION -- EZ-100 is a mildly acidic tanning agent. It should not be taken
internally, and care should be taken that any skin contact does not cause
an allergic reaction. After handling, or contact with the Pickling or
Tanning solutions, always wash your hands with soap and water. We highly
recommend you wear gloves and a Rubber apron when tanning. If accidentally
taken internally, induce vomiting, and call your Physician. Always store
and use chemicals safely -- and away from children and visitors.
* * * * * * * * * *
Disposal
After using the Saftee Acid or EZ-100 solutions, they can safely disposed
by first raising the pH level to a 6.5-7.0 pH. Use Baking Soda or Sodium
Carbonate (Soda Ash) to economically raise the pH level. After
neutralizing the acidity -- the solutions can safely be dumped in city
sewage. In rural areas, where city sewage is not available -- raise the pH
level, and then dump the solution in an area where its salt content will
not affect plant growth.
* * * * * * * * * *
Rittel"S instructions are based upon our personal experiences using a
particular product and technique. Rittels offers these instructions as a
guideline, and does not imply that they will guarantee success. Rittels
does not accept any liability for such claims, or for the misuse of our
instructions or products; since we have no control over the use,
application and conditions of the environment or materials upon which they will be used. Rittels has made every attempt to provide instructions based on our own successful results and experimentation.
* * * * * * * * * *
All rights reserved. No part of these instructions may be reproduced in
any form or by any means without permission.
* * * * * * * * * *
Rittels Tanning Supplies
51 Summer St.
Taunton, MA 02780
E-Mail: Rittel@mindspring.com
Website & On-Line Ordering: http://Rittelsupplies.net
I have to say, I used your super solvent and WOW! A great product thae is easy to use and man does it do the job.
Doug
Better yet, take the skin to your local taxidermist. If he sends the skin out to a reputable fur dresser, you most likely will get a fur back that will be presentable in your living room,on a book shelf etc., not a fur that would be better suited for a box in the closet.
The Gasoline Worked After Two Coatings, He Was Degreased Nicely, Sampooed, Oiled, And Dried He Is Going To Be An Excellent Addition To My Bedroom Wall. Thanks.
-Jeremy
I hope you dont smoke!