Let me get this straight!

Submitted by Robert cain on 4/2/05 at 6:44 PM. ( deerhunter_bc@yahoo.com )

Please tell me IF I have this right. When you tan a deer cape this is how it is done.
turn ears eyes and nose
Flesh all red meat and fat
salt and hang to dry
resalt and let dry rock hard
rehrydrate in water till soft
pickle 1.0 to 2.0 (1.0 was where my ph was) for 3 days
shave return to pickle for 1 day
nutrilize (1 tbl baking soda per gal of water for 30 min.)
drip dry and put brush on tan on
allow to penatrate overnight
wash in clean water
dry by towel or put in dryer (air fluff no heat)
sew any holes and mount!

The reason I am writing this is that I just lost my second cape in a row and I am getting a little ticked. I have had some success in the past but this year has gone to hell in a hand basket in a hurry. I am thinking of switching to rittles products for the rest of the year but need to get complete instructions (start to finish) with the product or I not using it. I lost one cape with mckinze's brush on tan on itand the other was a cream tan from Rineharts. I know these have differant instructions from one and other, I am thinking of using eztan from rittles but not sure if this will cure my problem.
Thanks for any help or commets bob

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This response submitted by jason on 4/2/05 at 7:04 PM. ( jdo76@netnet.net )

i dont do your tan so im not 100% sure on that method,to start ph is to low 1.5-2.0,the mekenzie brush on just bothers me ,can t and dont believe it works,also it may be before the tanning processing that is causing the problems , make sure when u take it out of freezer,prep the cape then salt . not in and out of freezer.any other questions email me


This response submitted by Greg on 4/2/05 at 7:51 PM. ( )

do you know of the conditions before getting to you? The ph on the pickle is too low, I try to stay about a 2 - 2.5. I also shave twice to get as thin as possible, but your hair should already be pretty much set after the first pickle. I neutralize at about a 7ph, but again your hair should already be set. How long does it take you to skin & turn? How long does you cape set out before you start? It may be getting to hot. There is a website, I apologize if I get it wrong, something like hidetanning.com they have alot of info. Also check the search button. Hope it helps


This response submitted by rob on 4/2/05 at 7:51 PM. ( )

You didnt mention the salt in you rehydration solution ..? You are adding 1lb. salt per gallon of water aren't you ?

To long

This response submitted by Mr. T on 4/2/05 at 8:08 PM. ( )

To long at the salt, to long at the pickle, Salt drying rock hard will NOT lock the hair in, here is you're own proof that it doesn't "losk" in hair. Salt for 24 hours IS ALL YOU NEED and get it to that pickle fast. Then pickle for 24 hours no more that 48 is ALL YOU NEED.
Salt and pickle in a cold area, no warm rooms. Skip the dryer, spin in the washer, roll up in a towel, then mount, skip the dryer, skip the second day salt, skip the 3rd day pickle.

authentic taxidermy 1 hr. tan

This response submitted by final flight taxidermy on 4/2/05 at 8:14 PM. ( rsconner )

try this product and you will not be disappointed

I have used

This response submitted by J.Randall on 4/2/05 at 8:45 PM. ( )

Alot of the home tans and some of them turned out pretty good but I've had my share of problems with most of them. Give KrowTann 2000 a try it's alot less work and I've yet to lose anything I've Tanned with it. Also when tanning for a mount I like the condition of the hide or cape way better than any brush on tan I've used.


This response submitted by George on 4/2/05 at 8:49 PM. ( georoof@aol.com )

You guys scare me. "Too low pH for the pickle"? "Too long in the pickle"? Guys, hold on. A pickle at 1.5 to 2 is too high for ME. A pickle at 1 is perfectly OK as it kills all bacteria as well as locks in the hair. It can stay in a pickle for weeks if you'd like. It is protected by the pickle. And you know I'm no friend of that "rock hard" salt drying. Water is NOT YOUR FRIEND and if you dry it rock hard, you're going to have to rehydrate it anyway. Why not pickle it just as soon as it stops dripping water? I still maintain (though my buddy Bruce Rittel doesn't agree with me) that the old "bone dry" salt was used by furriers who couldn't do anything else with the hides while in the wilderness. JUST MY OPINION on that one however.

And trust me, there is no such thing as a true tan in one hour or in a spray bottle. That's a term used very loosely. Dry preservative is sometimes called "Instant Tan" and it fits right in there.

Glad your back George

This response submitted by Mr. T on 4/2/05 at 9:57 PM. ( )

enjoy the show?

Yes Mr. T.

This response submitted by George on 4/2/05 at 10:04 PM. ( )

You guys know my feelings on alum tanning and Krowtann is one of them HOWEVER, for a beginner worried about slippage, Krowtann would be an excellent product. (It's hard for some of you to recall, I have no problems with the PROPERTIES of Krowtann, it's the alum TANNING I don't like and don't trust). Alum will definitely lock your hair down and the low pH will also work in your favor. I'd much rather see you use something like Krowtann over those other products mentioned above.


This response submitted by paul on 4/3/05 at 10:01 AM. ( )

i cant believe what i just heard! lol


This response submitted by paul on 4/3/05 at 10:02 AM. ( )

i should say


This response submitted by Justin on 4/3/05 at 11:20 AM. ( mrjwbest@yahoo.com )

George, don't you also agree though that salting a skin rock hard also helps in aiding the hair to be locked in? If he is loosing capes, I would ask how long he is spending turning and doing the initial fleshing etc..if too much time is spent there, that's where the main problems could be arrising. Just my opinion.

Justin makes a good point

This response submitted by oldshaver on 4/3/05 at 4:27 PM. ( )

If I was a Taxidermist, I wouldnt take more skins out of the freezer, or cooler, than I could flesh, turn, and salt, in a hour and a half. Maybe some Taxidermist might say longer, but I have seen too much, and that worries me. The importance of quick salting, cant be said enough.

I agree with OS

This response submitted by George on 4/4/05 at 12:08 AM. ( )

But remember, salt is inert. It's a dehydrating agent. It doesn't stop bacteria from growing, it only removes the life from (water) it requires. Bone dry hides still have to be rehydrated, and if bacteria had already set in before the salt was applied, rehydrating is going to continue from it's original point. The most important thing is QUICKNESS with salt, just like OS said.

Robert use stop rot up front

This response submitted by paul e on 4/4/05 at 7:50 AM. ( americanmetalfab@bellsouth.net )

Robert try using a product called stop rot up front
being a beginner you are probably taking to long
ive used most of the products you meantioned they are not the cause
of your slippage
i live in southern louisiana and slippage can be a problem real fast
since using stop rot up front and addind a second round of it before
neutralising (im also using KROWTANN)ive seen dramatic reductions
in the amount of slippage

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