To use liqui tan do i need to pickel the skin first or do i just salt, rehydrate and brush it on?
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You can use it straight from the bottle to a raw hide. No need to do what you want to do. But, it is recomended that you pickle a hide first before you apply it. So if your salting, drying and rehydrating it, why not pickle it also. You can atleast shave the hide thinner and with a thin hide the liqua-tan works better as to it penetrates better on a thin hide.
Now my method is simple:
rehydrate in ultra-soft
rinse and place in pickle for three days
drain,shave and repickle for a day
drain, neturlize using a tablespoon of sodium carbonate to a gallon of water. Soak no more than twenty minutes.
Rinse and then drain for about an hour or a bit more.
I then apply the liqua-tan and then fold the cape and place it in a safe area overnight. From there I'll hang the capes over my 55 gallon drum and just let them drip dry for about the rest of the day. Then I take them, fold them up and place them in the freezer till I'm ready to mount them.
When I take them out, I place them in the fridge and usually by the next day their thawed out. I then wash and shampoo them using Pert shampoo. I do this twice and rinse well.
From there I use a clothes dryer set on cool. Place about 5 heavy towels in the dryer and tumble for about 15 to 20 minutes. Take out and mount it up.
You'll get plenty of stretch with a very clean hair that has some nice sheen to it.
And I'm certainly no fan of rehydrating a salted hide. Once the water has been leeched from the hide, why should you wait until it's rock hard just so you can wet it again?
Paint on tans work quite well on FRESH hides. Skin, flesh, and salt overnight only. The next day, the hide will still be moist and pliable, but the salt will have removed enough water that the paint on tan will be absorbed quickly into the hide. Paint the tan on, roll the hide up and let it set 6 to 8 hours. At that point you can wash the hide and mount it, or place the rolled up hide in freezer to mount later.
if liquid tan and dry preserfatives was the way to go ,do you not think that tanneries would do it to.This is not proper tanning, your cutting corners,the skins will not last ,after it is mounted and dry for a period of time the skin cracks.I've seen it to many times.
Remember is your briging your trophy to a taxidermist do you not want the best and for it to last for years to come.
It's up to you.
Be so kind as to find me an INDUSTRY DEFINITION of what a "real" tan actually is. DP is not a tan and never pretended to be, but the paint on have a rather good track record in this industry. Glen Conley's Stop Rot is well on it's way in eliminating conventional tanning as we know it and in 20 years, someone may be asking you why you're wasting all your time pickling and tanning when you can simply Stop Rot it and be done. I grew up in an era before "pickling" was a step instead of the whole process, so I know today's "real tans" are just a another process. I also know tanneries that use alum tans and I think I'm on record as to my feelings about that one as well.
George their are many methods of tanning that we can agree.I've been at this for a long time as well.I've tried diferent tanning methods,
and I am sure you did as well.With all the Techs out their in the tanning industry. I am sure that if tanning cream was the best way ,they would use it. Tanneries use lutan and have for years.
I am talking about large tanneries for the garment industry.I've tried to get some of them to try EZ-100 and some like it some don't.
I've known Bruce for a about 8 years now. And I am not a salesmen for Bruce ,or do I get free supplies, but one thing is for sure. I pickel,I tan and I have yet found a tanning that does a better job.
But this is only my opinion.
Their are several tanneries that are using Liqua Tan, I don't know where your chemical degree is from but Liqua Tan has been proven for over 25 years to be an excellent tan that has been tested by mounting, tested by longjevity, tested by a boil test. In fact the boil tests of liqua Tan come back higher then some tanneries submersible tans. Not only that Liqua Tan has won more national and world awards on customer mounts then any other item. I have had people change out horns on mounts that have been tanned and mounted after 25 years and still in excellent condition. The cracks may appear on the DP but not on Liqua Tan mounts. Follow the directions properly and this is an excellent product. Yes this is a complete tan no different then a lutan or other submersible tans, this just happens to be in a liquid form. All tans even the submersible ones are in a liquid state at one point before they finish them out to be dry.
this may be true that SOME tanneries use liquid tan, not in the garmit industry. Tell me how can a liquid tan remove the protein from a skin by painting on a tanning agent.The skin must be pickeled,neutralized,then tanned. I would have to see it to beleive it.With new technoligy now days anything is possible. I don't cut corners or it will come back on you.I've seen mount done with liquid tans, not sure of the name brand ( called liquid tan ) The skin looks flat and liveless.And cracking around the eyes ,nose and mount.We do a lot of work for a particular client ,with hundreds of life-size mount, he has a pool in his trophy room,heat,moisture control,air exchange unit. No money spared , very reputable taxidermist used liquid tan cracking in the areas I mentioned , and now they get no more work from this client. All of our work the same as day one for years. So it will be hard to beleive that liquid tan would be better.
I use ez-100 for about 8 years now, same idea as lutan but better,it is water proofed. Lutan F after being tan, soak it in a pail of clear water and see all the lutan being washed out,not with ez-100.
But this is only my opinion,maybe ask Bruce Ritel his opinion.!
Their may be a lot of want to be tans out their but guarantee its not ours thats caused any problems. Besides the tan does not remove the protein but that shows your lack of. No need for me to try and edjucate you. By the way your not going to wash out lutan that easy!
Before you spout off about companies products watch your p's & Q's because if you do not know what you are talking about best off to leave it alone.We are not tanning garment stuff here and no one said anything about garment here get back to the question. Other tans can cause the shrinking and cracking if not properly used, just like a car if you miss use it, its not the dealers fault. If they are not properly oiled or too much salt you can see these issues but keep in mind not always the tans fault. I've seen alot of poor crap come out of tanneries that use nothing but cheap material.
All the hard work is done with the salting and the pickling, I say go with the EZ100, it does a marvelous job. Just shampoo it after you neutralize, rinse well and straight into the ez100. It will come out terrific.
Totally 2 differnt products.
LMAO These two can't be helped. I almost choked on that part about removing the protein from skin. Once you do that, what's supposed t be left? The Emperor's New Clothes? LMAO
Thats why sometimes its just not worth it.
Sorry Mark and George I am wrong AGAIN you guys know to much for me,so you keep on using liquid tan, and DP and I will use ez-100
I know your way is better, so us idiots will stick with what we know best. All the garment tannaries don't know their nose from their ass.
You need to start charging for your information. Where do I send the check to ?