George can you add a little info for me

Submitted by paul e on 8/8/05 at 7:47 AM. ( )

im going to try a few different tans this year
ive noticed over the past couple of years you like the jrts
so i did some research and think im going to add this to the tans ill try this year
now i have not read every single post in the archives but i intend to
my main question is how hard is it to pass a needle through it after its been tanned
please escuse me i know it may be a silly question
but i have a disability in my left hand and im left handed
it was a big deal to find tans that let me sew easily through the hide
just wondering
many thanks

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Not silly at all to me

This response submitted by George on 8/8/05 at 8:39 AM. ( )

Surprisingly enough, it was exactly that issue that sold me on JRTS. Without a pickle, the skin is soft and very supply and a sharp needle passes through it like hot butter. When you elect to use a pickle prior to tanning, it's a bit tougher.

The steps I use on a tubed out,turned, fresh hide is to flesh completely, salt overnight, rinse the salt off, towel dry and then paint the tan on. I lay the hide on a split trash bag during the process and loosely cover the hide when the tan is painted on. I let it set out at room temperature for at least 6 hours. Many times I tan in the afternoon and let the tan set overnight. Then I fold the plastic over the hide to eliminate leakage and put the hide in the freezer. It WILL NOT FREEZE, however, but will congeal the tanning cream to some degree.

The day that I intend to mount it, I lay it out the night before. In the morning, I hose the hide off to remove residual tanning cream from the skin and turn the hide back to hair side out. I then place the hide in a bucket of LUKE WARM water with about an ounce of Knobloch's Pre-Soak. I agitate the hide by hand until all the mud, blood, and dirt are loosened and again, I rinse it off. Then I place it in a bucket of clear LUKE WARM water to insure all the offal and tanning cream has been removed from the hide. Then I pour the hide and the clear water in my old washing machine for a ride on the spin cycle. When complete, I turn the hide skin side out and wrap it in a towel. This plumps up the hide to a small degree to where I can finish shave it before mounting the animal. I love the stuff.

wow thanks George

This response submitted by paul e on 8/8/05 at 10:50 AM. ( )

thanks George
you answered all my ? like you knew what i was going to ask
id love to say i only get prime fresh capes
but i cant
and sometimes i really dont know if i get a frozen one and get it defrosted
stop rot has greatly enhanced my whole experience with regards to
so im exploring other options
JRTSis one that i want to explore
its good to know about the needle passing through
im going to order some JRTS and give it a good test run

i knew you would have the answers

im going to go back and read and research to get the process clear from start to finish

thanks for your time and wisdom
i appreciate it greatly

good hunting paul e , "ark wildlife studio"


This response submitted by mike on 8/8/05 at 12:48 PM. ( )

Ive been using jrts cream since the 80's, last year i did the exercise your contemplating ie tried different types of tans. i have left overs of the others and went back to jrt its the best. its alot like using brush on dp only you get a genuine tan and very little shrinkage. i have
scraps of hides from the 80s that i use as examples to customers for durabilty,tight hair, penetration, etc.


This response submitted by jrosbor on 8/9/05 at 12:02 PM. ( )

I figured why waste an e-mail? I will send a small email to have you re-check the post.
I too have used JRTC in the past. And I have a video from JRTS co. that states "JRTC is loaded with "tannins" from the finest German chemists, and "drivers" that force the tan deep in the hide."
The end result is as George stated.
I would say the whole procesess is half way between your typical DP and static tanning. However the end result is a fully tanned skin. I would take JRTC over any other "Liquid tan-o-matic in a bottle" You will not be dissapointed!
AND. I have spent the last few days trying to get "color loss". Sorry but I have had no luck. I think the color loss is being caused by epidermal sloughing. I have not had this happen with my methods. STOP-ROT can be used as an insurance policy. And I took a test skin and re-hydrated it in 4oz of salt per gal of water. and had NO shrinkage and a needle passed through the skin with ease just like a "good" tanned skin. Sorry I can't give more info on a public forum. I have hit a snag and it will be about another few weeks befor it's ready. Good luck! Joseph R Osborn (Hunter's Dream Taxidermy)

That's right

This response submitted by mike on 8/9/05 at 1:12 PM. ( )

Years ago i was at a seminar that John Rinehart put on and explained the cream and that he had hired a german chemist to put the formula together. Rinehart was one of the first to see the benefits of epoxies and superglues. Everything that i have ever tried from rineharts has always worked very well, partly because i think they used in there own shop before putting it in the catalog. This is just my opinion from experience with rineharts. ps i could be wrong but i think it is a vegetable based tan. i know it has some the same preservatives that are used in foods.

JOE dont give up on the color loss

This response submitted by paul e on 8/9/05 at 1:44 PM. ( )

thanks for the additional info on the JRTS

dont give up on the quest for no color loss
there are a lot of variables that might come into play
you may have to find everything that doesnt work first

good hunting paul e

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