i tanned a buffalo cape and tumbled it in corncob grit how do you remove it .
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Not sure what you are asking... How do you remove corn cob grit from hair? That would have been a better question. We use a cageing drum for that. What little bit is left we use an air compressor. BTW, What do you mean "how many coats do you put in a bear skin for a rug.`"? Joe
you should have used corn cob flower. the bigger sized grit is going to be an extreme bitch to get out of that buffalo.
I am guessing you meant flour? That will be even worse. The finer you go in a wool like buffalo, the harder it is to remove from the hide. The best is a medium to coarse grade of sawdust that is easily removed by the combing machine with a dust collector attachment.
nothing personal patton, but your answer is obsurd! a combing machine does not work well on wool. and dust is what i'm talking about. it's easly removed with a shaker drum and air stream. or is it streem. im not sure. but im talking about tanning not spelling. nice try though to discredit my years of experience. some new guy to the rigors of tanning may take up your argument for that reason. but then that person probably won't be around long in this business. or is it an art. john thinks its all science, whatever. i start collecting pelts of the roadkills when i was 6. so i was so busy in the woods, i skipped a few spelling/english classrooms. im not a bit sory though. not when i hear the bs they're teaching in schools now a days.
yes, mr paton i respect you and i am disappointed in your anwser here. it time you drop the sawdust and move into the new way. corn cob grit, or bettr still use corn cob flower,[flour]
Since you are a fur dresser I don't think you know much about Taxidermy Tanning. Mr. Patton's business covers both fur dressing and Taxidermy tanning. When the capes are wet the corn cob grit is a pain to remove. Coarse sawdust is much much easier to remove on a wet skin if you don't have a caging drum. The fella is talking about a cape for a shoulder mount not a rugged hide. Besides that, most good reputable tanneries use hard wood sawdust to tumble the rugged hides and dry tanned capes to break them. I still believe that tanning is a science and not an art. It doesn't take a whole hell of alot of natural talent to accomplish high quality tanning. Just listening and learning from guys like Old Shaver, David Patton, Glen Conley, and George Roof. I hope you know that these guys are instrumental in developing some of the more modern tanning chemicals and processes and you still argue with them.
john you are really full of yourself again. you don't need to paint me into any box. how will your remarks help a new tanner here?
if it's a wet buffalo cape? then wash/rinse it. if it's dry then look out. course or even medium sized grit will be hard hard to remove. use the fine powder dust. it cleans each little fine hair and sub fur better. and can be removed thru the very small openings in a prime buffalo fur.
will help him figure out who to listen to and who not to listen to. The best advice comes from those four incredibly experienced and established Taxidermists and Tanners. I am speaking from the taxidermy end of the spectrum here and corn cob grit in my opinion sucks for mammal skins of any kind because it is a big fat pain the ass to remove from a wet CAPE. I can tell Shawn that he should listen to David Patton as far as the sawdust is concerned. If he uses the sawdust instead of the grit it is much much easier to remove from the hair and skin of a WET hide. Not all of us own tanneries like you EJ and do not have the caging drums. Enough said.
We don't use corn cob grit in taxidermy tanning. I don't know anyone who does use it for anything other than tumbling birds in. I have tried the wood flour with a bison hide before. The hide was dry and it was a "you know what" to remove from the wool next to the leather. The coarser grade of sawdust was much better and cleaned the hair nicely. I have cage drums and I have Capdevilla combers with dust collecters attached to them to remove the sawdust from the hair. The set-up works great! Maybe you should try it sometime.
Now, as to your experience and trying to discredit, what do you tan and where are you located? What is the name of your company? Mine is Lonestar Wool and Fur in Smithfield, North Carolina. I really can't see a comment like mine as an attempt to discredit when you haven't even identified yourself in this forum even once. Just vague hints at your experiences. How about sharing some of that wealth of experience with us?
As far as the spell checker, I left that at the door a long time ago when it became a futile effort with Oldshaver. I thought maybe you were referring to something I hadn't heard of before. After all, icebergs in the Gulf? Maybe you were on to something new again with a flower.
And finally, I too picked up road kill on the dusty East Texas roads I grew up on and I too began tanning at an early age in a 5 gallon bucket, but I still had time to learn. In fact, I am still learning. So, what do you have to teach me?
I am open for discussion.
"but your answer is obsurd! a combing machine does not work well on wool"
Call Yolanda at Capdevilla in Spain. She will send you brochures of the combers that are made specifically for wool. Have you money ready though, they are not cheap!
'EJ' Eric runs an entity called Heartland Tannery Products that sells the tanned pelts/skins from a couple obvious dressed fur wholesalers (Moscow, Eidnes) on eBay. 'sengseal' He's in IL. All photos of furs from this tannery are taken at someone's home and patio. The truck has fur-theme vanity plates. I've never seen a business license for this entity, but I would think it exists because the Eidnes wholesale catalog is only available to businesses. One can be in the business of selling car tires, makeup, food, fur, whatever, and be able to get an Eidnes catalog, so long as they send in their license #. I have never personally done business with EJ or his co. as buyer or seller. EJ's photos do not appear to be edited or hiding any skin damages. OK, one opinion: Fun fur pelt pictures to look at.
EJ, nobody's discrediting you or attacking you. We'd just like to see your business cred. When you post up an opinion that can be seen as "polarized", like saying a comber is "obsurd" for wool!, you are bound to attract some criticism. Just take this in stride. If you are a true-blue tanner as you've been saying since 1998 on eBay, it should be very easy for you to credit yourself and not worry about the opinions of others.
A comber is absolutely essential for wool skins! Ignorance is bliss? How should EJ know? Has EJ ever shorn or tanned a sheep? Sheep are matted so much before they are shorn, that their wool comes off their whole body in 1 piece; once it's off it's called a fleece. Women don't wear matted sheep skin coats, do they, and people don't sit on tangled sheepskin car seat covers. To get this matting out, and get the pelt soft and supple for shearling and other uses, the hair-on skins are combed after tanning. Sometimes the wool is also straightened.
Pro quality combing and staking equipment is just one way a tannery distinguishes itself as "large/commercial" vs. "smaller scale/small business". The equipment isn't nearly as expensive as say, CNC laser guided metal fabrication stuff, but it's a sticker shock to most.
To the original poster, just keep brushing that buffalo until it's all out. If it's wet, let it dry first and then start brushing. I like to groom for about 10 minutes and then take a break for 10 minutes. Then repeat as needed. You've learned your lesson. Next time, don't use cob grit or send it out.