I've done some reading up on how commercial tanneries tan hair on cow hides and have come up with a few questions. Is it necessary to salt before tanning? If so is it easier/better to salt dry(rub and let set) or to soak it in a brine solution? Also What method do commercial tanneries use to tan cowhides? Alum, Acid, Chrome? I know for a fact that commercial tanneries dont stake and stretch to break hides they use a Tumbler, But how long does it take in a tumbler to soften a hide to a managable level?
Any answers would be helpful.
Thanks in advance,
Shelby
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When you say Commercial Cowhide Tanneries - do you mean hair on Tanneries or Leather Tanneries? There's a reall big difference in how skins are handled in each. For instance, a hair on Tannery small scale - will handle it much like they do for hair on Moose or Buffalo skins. A large Tannery specializing in hair on Cowhides however, may process 200-300 skins a day and they are quite sophisticated - machinery wise! They have huge Drums, sometimes even as big as 20' X 20' and they use fleshing and shaving machines that do all the work in one pass. However, both the small and large Tanneries usually end up tumbling or staking the skins for softness.
For leather - the epidermis and hair is not a problem, so although they also have the fleshing and shaving machines - they also use Splitting machines to make the leather a uniform thickness. In leather making they dont sawdust tumble - they do what is called Dry Milling. They use the weight of the skins in the drum to soften themselves as they tumble.
As for salting - both processes usually prefer fleshed and salted skins. for leather usually they are simply brined first. Some slaughter houses even pretan the stock using Chrome. They call it "in the blue".
Thanks.... thats the kind of info I was looking for. I am speaking only of Hair on Cowhide tanneries. What method do they use most often/best for hair on cow? in all the dealings with my last tannery I forgot to ask. Also is it better to Salt and dry and risk molting or to tan the green fleshed hide without salting?
Thanks,
Shelby
The first thing they do is clip the hair overall to make it evenly the same thickness - this allows them to run it through their roller type Fleshing and Shaving Machines. Then they go on to tan it usually using Chrome. At least this is the common way of tanning them in the big Brazilian Tanneries.
As for salting vs green skins - Tanneries prefer salting! It leaches out a lot of the fluids in the skin and replaces them as it dries. Likewise when you rehydrate them later - the salt easily dissolves and allows the skins to absorb the pickling chemicals easily. If you have a mold problem when salting and draining them - then you also have a high humidity problem that is causing it. Try to invest in a Dehumidifier for your shop. You'll notice the difference almost immediately.
Thanks for the info. I have decided to try and tan my own hides(which vary from Rabbit to Highland Steer) and plan to set up to do it small scale commercially for other people and for my retail business ( www.promiselandranch.net) because of two reasons.... 1. Time of Professional tanners(in my area wait time for a steer is 8-10 months, last year it was 6-8 weeks) and 2. Price( it went from $4.50 a Sq ft to $15.00 a square foot for steers) the main reason being the local Taxidermists wont do "Tanning" anymore.. they prefer to concentrate on "taxidermy" which pays much better I admit. I feel that a small scale tanner in my area that could tan hair on hides for a reasonable price could make a pretty penny. I am not afraid of alot of hard work(I have already Fleshed out my first 2 sheep and a Steer in less than 5 1/2 hours total for all three) They are currently in the freezer waiting for the temp to get above freezing so I can start tanning. I also plan to Clean and sell the skulls I can buy from my local butcher for little to nothing(hence the post on Dermisted Beetles). this first couple times I know I might screw up but I got about 10 rabbits to practice with and then step up to the Sheep after I've figured that out. The sheep are Katadins(hair sheep) which are not greasy like Wool sheep so they should be easier. Any one ever tanned Katadins? I already have plans for a large tumbler for breaking hides. My Market is Medieval reneactors that are in need of some products that currently arent avaliable in my area execpt by mail order and these people much prefer to choose their materials by hand. We are a choosy bunch and really strive for quality and authenticity. Not to mention a product i can make start to finish would save me some money(not paying the middlemen).
With that said... Any advise for the first timer? This is only an experiment but I want to do it right. My multiple crafts and chosen professions are my only income and currently this is my only gap in making all of my products from Scratch and start to finish.(I raise the critter from birth to butcher , We eat the meat and then make leather goods from the hides, Dice and Gaming tokens from the bones, Drinking Horns and glasses from the horns, Wall decorations from the skulls, boxes from the hooves. I am trying to reduce my materials cost and turnaround times.
Any advice is welcomed with open arms.
Feel free to email me with advice too.
Thanks
Shelby
shelby@promiselandranch.net
How would I mix alum for a 6'x 6' cowhide?