pickle with alum in it then McKenzie tan

Submitted by s on 2/6/06 at 10:41 PM. ( ) 69.136.35.115

Can I do this? I have read post that using a pickle with saftee acid & alum , you can skip salting. Reguardless of how I pickle it my question is will McKenzie tann work with a pickle with alum in it. I can't find any thing in the archives. I don't want to start a war with the guys who have been doing this & those that have'nt. Just trying to find a better way.

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"s" do you have a name?

This response submitted by George on 2/6/06 at 11:04 PM. ( georoof@aol.com ) 152.163.100.131

Adding alum to a pickle is thought by some to reduce the possibility of slipping, but I say it's still windshield wipers on a cat's ass. Slippage happens with poor field care and handling prior to the pickle. It can't retract what was previously screwed up. The pickle and alum are synonymous and I don't add alum to anything that doesn't have cucumbers in it. Follow the directions on the Saftee Acid and on the McKenzie tan and leave the windshield wipers in the NAPA store.


Here's the way

This response submitted by mike on 2/6/06 at 11:32 PM. ( taxidermy@mwt.net ) 207.190.112.39

I've done it since the early 80's.
1 Intensive flesh-turn every thing, salt skin, not left over meat-fat.
2 Let salt pull body fluids from skin, fluids grow putrifing bacteria. Overnight drain.
3 Pickle.
4 Final fleshing
5 Rinse/nuetralize in borax.
6 Brush on rinehart tanning cream.
7 Mount or freeze skin.
If you have a really fresh skin, no dry spots, skip pickle, rinse away salt and brush on tan and mount or freeze. Really simple. I loose only 1 skin every 2-3 yrs.
Use the alum for desliming fish skins.


Mike, I hope that's a misprint

This response submitted by George on 2/7/06 at 12:30 AM. ( ) 64.12.116.136

#5. I hope you aren't "neutralizing" with borax.


" S " your answer is yes

This response submitted by Laurier on 2/7/06 at 9:01 AM. ( houlel@onlink.net ) 209.105.209.15

call me at 705-476-0483 and I will walk you through it.
As for George you did not help anyone out, all you did is the same as always , just stir the pot. so just go back to your DP and leave the tanning to people that tan. You should not be comenting about something you have not tried nore have any knoledge about.


Yes ?

This response submitted by mike on 2/7/06 at 9:37 AM. ( ) 207.190.112.39

a 3 minute timed on microwave agitated rinse (i have a microwave in shop), this is what the jrts procedure has. I keep samples every year from cut offs of capes to watch for deterioration, samples from the 80's look and feel as good as the one's from last year. What am i missing ?


Laurier, why is it you always want someone to CALL you?

This response submitted by George on 2/7/06 at 9:37 AM. ( ) 64.12.116.136

I suspect that though you aren't very sharp, you're smart enough to know that if you put it in print everyone would know. You stick to your alum in your trapping shed out in the woods. Anyone who says that Liqui-Tan is a poor choice and picks alum instead has already told me quite enough about their knowlege of anything. I've probably forgotten more than you'll EVER know.


Borax as a neutralizer would will work I suppose

This response submitted by George on 2/7/06 at 10:45 AM. ( georoof@aol.com ) 205.188.116.131

But personally, I'd never neutralize with it. It's hard over toward the other end of the spectrum in pH and would seem to shock the hide. I use baking soda when I bother to pickle at all.


To be

This response submitted by mike on 2/7/06 at 11:33 AM. ( taxidermy@mwt.net ) 207.190.112.39

truthful I probably don't pickle correctly. I use 1# salt to 1 gal. water mainly to rehydrate and then tan. I use acid when i need to store a hide for a few days. I don't remember the name of the old famous taxidermist that recommended salt, tan, mount but it made sense to keep the acid to a minimum for longevity of the hide. I've seen deer with hide falling off around muzzle and my theory is acid rot. JMHO


George with a small town mind !!1

This response submitted by Laurier on 2/8/06 at 8:37 AM. ( houlel@onlink.net ) 209.105.208.247

George if you ever listened , the alum goes in the pickel to draw moisture from the fat, meat, you get the drift , don't you ?
Then neutralize , then tan then oil. I am not a trapper nore live in the bush. I leave my number so other people that want to learn something else , they can call. I do not have hours like you to be typing.I only have time in the morning while having a cofee.
Maybe some day you will swallow your pride and try it the way that many tannereies as well so you can see for your self.
I do not like alum tans nore do I ALUM TAN but then again I don't use , what that stuff that you love so mush George , Oh Yes " DP "
This is not a tanned skin and you know Is it not boras and alum.

I do know that it is mostely borax.

Well George maybe all the tanneries should stop doing all that work on their skins and " JUST " rub a little DP on it .


Laurier, your eyes must be brown

This response submitted by George on 2/8/06 at 10:08 AM. ( ) 205.188.116.131

For someone to post just what you did, proves your FOS. SALT draws the "moisture" from the hide and there damned sure shouldn't BE any fat left there. Alum is an astringent and an acid. Pickles are ACID. DID I MISS SOMETHING.

And I don't know what fried your noodle as to me "loving" DP, but your Space Cadet ring must be glowing. I use DP in all small game because tanning is a waste of time in my opinion. I use DP on ALL of my birds, just as every other taxidermist does (though he may settle for only the borax that's in the DP I use.

I figure you leaving the phone number was like tying a porkchop around your neck so the dog would play with you. You DO have an email, don't you?


George your as smart as a stump

This response submitted by Laurier on 2/9/06 at 8:28 AM. ( houlel@onlink.net ) 209.105.208.214

you see my e-mail address on top as usual don't you. DP on birda only fine , but tanning a skin just a waste of time , man oh man I wish your clients know just how much you put into their mounts you send large skins out to be tanned and the small ones DP , well why not DP the large ones. It's because you don't have a dam idea hgow to tan
so you cut corners and do a half ass job. Now this is a good way to teach something to these young guys.
You knock the way I tan and their has been other people that work at tanneries and do the same as I do.
AS I said before I never said that salting down a skin and letting it get hard as a rock was a bad thing. I only said that my way you don't
have to work your ass of to flesh a skin down by hand and then work your ass off to try and rehydrate it again.I let my fleshing machine do all the work not my back.
Maybe if your back was not stronger then your mind , you may just swallow your pride and try my way.
I've had many taxidermist call me and try my way, with no problems, cut your labor in half and double your profit.
Listen George I've been a taxidermist for as long as you, I remember the DP days and I tried it and never liked it, it is not better then a proper tan, DP is not tanning so you take one og your mounts apart that has been DP and rehydrate it and take one apart that was tanned NEUTRALIZED and rehydrate it and we will see what skin falls apart.
I will garrenty you one thing it will not be my skin. I've tried it just to see, and I've never lost a skin , so stop taking around in circles and put your money where your mouth is. Just try it.

Att: all other taxidermist that will read this , don't you think George should try my way, on even a piece of skin that is , maybe the back half of a bear or a deer.
My way is not new ,it's been done by tannries for years , it is just a faster and better way.


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