I have read in the archives that you use JRTS. I want to try it. In one post from 10/23/03 you said you salt (not heavily as you never do),rub in the salt , shake off the excess salt & roll up to drain overnight. How much salt do you really leave on the hides.? And do you actually roll the hides & if so how are the posistioned as to drain. I skin all my game rough flesh big meat then freeze.When I'm ready to work on it I then thaw, turn everything & then wash the blood out & go from there. Your direction has helped me in the past. Thanks
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I don't shake it off, but I do pick the hide up. I have a large plastic bucket with an aluminum grate in the bottom. I invert the hide only enough to cover the exposed skin side of the hide and put it down in the bucket overnight. Next morning, I take out, wash the salt off and tan.
Now I use a fine grade "food grade" salt on my hides, so I get a good concentration versus the coarser salt.
George do you think that a little salt like that will remove enough moisture from the skin over night.The next morning you wash off the skin ( the salt ) then you tan OR is it DP ?
And you say that my way the alum in the PICKELING ( whitch will protect the skin ) and the alum remove moisture from fat so I can flesh it on a fleshing machine,then back in the pickel , then neutralize, THEN TAN , then oil , then tumble in sawdust.
So you way is better then mine.
Why don't we put it to the test, and ask the other taxidermist their opinion.
Now for the taxidermist that do not have this kind of experience or do not want to learn something.
Kindly keep the improper words to them self, this will not help anyone.
stoprot up front
fleah on machine
30 munute soak in wtds leatherizing acid
stop rot again
its a real eye opener but as far as i can see and feel the skin is tanned as good as any
SO ID SAY GEORGE WAS RIGHT about the pickle
and with the stop rot combo it really speeds up production
now im sure some are going to say im crazy
i dont care
i wasnt scared of trying on a few scraps first and im sure glad at this point i tried it
ill leave the alum. issue alone
Go back into the archives and read that article by the doctor Glen Conley referred you to before you continue your ignorance. You must be snorting DP and you continue to accuse me of using it on big game animals, and for what purpose, I'm not sure. My DP animals look just as good as my tanned ones and they were mounted nearly 30 years ago. I can't help if you don't know how to use DP. And by the way, no matter how much salt you use, only the layer in contact with the skin is working, the rest is just soaking up residual fluids. When a hide stops dripping, continued salting is just about as smart as you are. Now, do I need to leave you a phone number so you can call me for further explanations??
I'm curious. You say you use DP as well as tan. How do you determine whether you'd rather use DP on something? Do you DP specific animals? I'm guessing you don't DP things like deer, elk... large stuff. I would also think it wouldn't work well on greasy animals either. But... I dunno... never done it.
Fill me in, please.
The only thing I use DP for is skull plates, currently.
I DP all small game. Even otters, muskrats and beavers, but I take particular care in degreasing and deodorizing as well as conditioning the hair. I like DP on the canids and even bobcats as they are so prone to ear slippage. You are correct, I'd never again us DP on larger game starting with wolves and cougars working up. I find it really ironic that most bird people will tell you that all that's necessary to preserve a bird is DP or even borax (which has no curative qualities), yet state that they'd never mount a rabbit or squirrel without tanning it. Feathers are modified hair (or in a turkey the beard is a modified feather)and both are retained by skin, so why the difference?
Laurier, I was hoping you'd say that just so I could tell you: IT'S IN THE ARCHIVES. Click that orange SEARCH icon in the left hand column and then type in "George Roof" using the quotation marks. That way you'll avoid the 8950 postings and reduce your search to only 1170. Good luck.
George no e-mail address, it is easier to find you through information
with the (phone).
But I just know it , your dp whitch is NOT tanning at all, all your Tanning goes to a tannery. You really know JACK about TANNING
or you would take me up on my challange.
Your a dam RED KNECK chickencrap.
Put your money where your mouth is or back off and keep your big nose out of this. I know what the hell I am talking about , as per other people telling you the same.You have no idea what you are talking about or you would tan all your skins , not just dry them out .
I told you the last time rehydrate one of your dp mounts and see what happens.
You know it will just fall apart be the time it is soft enough to remove it from the manikin.
But mine will not, mine is tanned , your is ( RAW )
laurier lighten up
there are thousands of dry preservative mounts that are pretty old
and are fine
i live in a very humid area
ive got mounts in my garage that are over 20 years old
they are fine
i guess im full of crap also huh
i can see and feel and ill keep any other opinions on your comments to myself
have a nice life
I don't see personally anything wrong with alum if being used in the pickleing process. First, it is economical for those of you who tan large amounts of skins. Next, it hepls remove fat and grease. We need to remeber that it needs to be neutralized before tanning with whatever kind of tan you use wherther its lutan F, Ez 100, Mc Kenzie or even , Liqua tan, Krowtann, etc. If you have alot of skins and large ones like moose, bear, large african animals this seems to be the way to go. Who would want to waste their time salting and drying all of this stuff. Besides commercial tanneries like USA fox, South Texas Fur dressers, and Moyle mink and Moscow hide and Fur more than likely use alum NOT IN THERE TAN IN THERE PICKLEING SOLUTION. There is just to many skins to salt and dry, it would take way to much time to do this. What there doing isremeber all that time you spent salting and drying skins to prepare them to ship them out for tanning, well all of your skins are going straight into the pickle, like it or not. Last you, also have to remeber some of then don't care if they neutralize your skins or not, whether pickled in alum or just regular saftee acid. This is what causes acid rot.
You might not agree with what I have said, but everyone has the right to speak if they know anything useful about tanning if you don't you should just keep your mouth shut and not speak.
I've been doing this for almost 34 years. Yes I do know about DP
we all did mounts at that time.
I am was the customer I would want my mont to last and be done the proper way, and NOBODY can tell me that DP, or liguid tan , or any other time cutting tans.
Good fur dressers do a very good job,if DP or liquid tan was better
don't you think they would do it that way DA!
piclel , neutralize , tan ,oil is the proper way and if anybody would like to challenge proper tanning to DP or or cutting corners. Let me know.
im not going to toss in in a swimming pool
nor do i plan to stick in in the microwave
i can change out a spark plug myself or i can get a mechanic to do it and charge me 30 times more money or if im really insane that day i can bring it to a dealer
the engine looks and sounds the same after wards
ah its a waste of time
im going get some crisoy creme donuts and put some jrts on a cape