While up to my eyebrows in alligators today, I got 2 tubs of whitetail capes mixed up and did the ph adjustment and 2nd tan step with EZ100 on 2 capes that had not been shaved. They shaved great but now I'm wondering if I need to put them back thru the EZ100 step again. They are heavy haired/heavy skin capes.
BTW, I had been looking for a tanning formula for the autotanner that gives me good stretch, tight hair, and is easy to shave. When I saw the EZ100 post recently for the AT I tried it and will not use anything else now. I also use the ProPlus oil.
Last question, I'm needing to order some more tanning crystals. The ones I have been using were bought with the tanner when I got it from Steve. I noticed the tanning crystals on the Rittels site and was wondering if they would work similar or better than what I'm currently using? If not, what do you recommend for use with the EZ100/AT?
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In answer to your both questions -
Simply run the shaved and previously run in the Alum mix skins in the now EZ-100 added mixture for 2 more hours. By doing this you will wash out the Alum and the EZ-100 will replace it. The EZ-100 will also lock up any sulphate sites still reactive. Be sure to rinse well when removing the skins - then drain and oil.
Our Tanning Crystal mix is almost identical to the one Steve offered with the AT. Same formula - same PH. You should have identical results.
They turned out fine.
Why use the tanning crystals if they are going to be washed out? Seems like a waste of time and money. Shouldnt he just use EZ-100 in the first place? The fact is, the alum wont be washed out at temps below 130 degreesF. Sulphate sites still reactive- whats that all about? I applogize in advance, but this sounds a little like some serious smoke blowing, to me. Why would you want to lock in something so harmful,(according to some), and only have it come back to harm you later? My opinion, use the tanning crystals alone, and the mount will probablly outlive his grand-kids!
Unfortunately - EZ-100 cannot be used alone in an Auto Tanner - and allowed to run for 4 hours continuously! Unlike Alum it does not slightly shrink the skin - it tans to the original skin size. Alum tightens the hair or fur roots and it can withstand the Drumming! An EZ-100 skin would lose hair if it ran for 4 hours continuously! But - if it's used in combination with Alum (running it for 2 hours) - the EZ-100 (running it the final 2 hours) will wash out the Alum and bond. Alum Tanning Crystals in the Auto Tanner are usually at a 3.0-3.5 PH reading. If you are familiar with Alum -- at this PH range the Alum moves in and out of the skin with no fixation taking place. Much like Chrome. It's very much like a pickle. At this Ph the Alum doesnt fix to the skin. Only when its PH is raised to a 3.8 does it fix. EZ-100 fixes at a 4.0 PH. So - in the Tanning Crystals the Alum is not "locked in". In fact - if you raise the PH above a 3.8 to the 4.5-5.0 range - you will begin to precipitate out the Alum into the solution. Take note that EZ-100 is a Sulphonic Acid Phenolic Syntan. Obviously it also has Sulphate in it - but - once they fix to the fibers of the skin - they will not leave behind any sulphate sites that are capable of reacting with direct or atmoshperic moisture to reform into H2So4 - unlike Alum! Alum bonds weakly to the skin fibers whereas the EZ-100 has a much tighter bond (hence a higher Shrinkage Temperature).
For that reason and also the fact that EZ-100 in a Wet Drum can't withstand 4 hours of continuous drumming - if you like the shaving plumpness of an Alum tanned skin but dislike its longevity because of the residual and reactive Sulphates left behind in the skin - an EZ-100 and Alum combination tan is a very good alternative.
As a note - I'll be doing a Seminar at the NTA Show in Billings MT this July on this particular subject. I'm going to present several ways to use the Automatic Tanner as a Wet Drum. I'm hoping it will be a good seminar for Tanners to attend - as well as Auto Tanner owners! I welcome Tannery Tanners to attend.
If you have any doubts about what I've said - please confirm it by asking a leather Tanner. There are very good reasons why shoes are not made using Alum tanned leathers! Baseballs are an exception!