What are your opinions of this product? My teacher has been using it for 20 yrs. but, I have been thinking about trying KrowTan 2000.
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Its for the birds, no really its great for birds but crappie for anything else.
I think you will love Krowtann.
You mix according to direction, ruff slesh cape or skin and put it in the mix, I place a towel soaked in the solution over the top and seal the plastic bucket or container.
I then move it around four or five times a day. for three or four days.
Remove final flesh, wash with TIDE, then follow direction on pH.
I put a skin into the Krowtann yesterday it was very very close to slipping this afternoon the hair is set perfect.
Matter of fact I have put five redfox and three bobcat in the Krowtann today. The fox feels like it is already tanned.
I will leave them until Thursday.
DP and that is all the powder is, does nothing more than help dry the hide, you have noticed at points the hair is very very loose on the mounts. Its slipping but will dry tight if left alone.
I know several who use spray tan, they flash and spray allow the hide to sit over lunch and mount in the afternoon.
Its topical like the DP.
KROWTANN SOAK INTO THE HIDE.
I've DP'ed small game for over 45 years with NO definitive problems. Many TANS are topical. For that matter, SALT is topical, but it doesn't mean that it doesn't work. Most importantly, hair being able to be pulled out of a mount IS NOT SLIPPAGE. It's simply hair being pulled out. If it, in fact, had slipped, it would come out after it had dried. A DP'ed mount done by the best professional will look just as good long term as a tanned one. Personally, I like tanned big game hides, but for critters up to and including bobcat and coyote, DP works well for me. Obviously, I'm not alone.
I just started tanning this year (Liqua-Tan). I have used DP since I started taxidermy 30+ yrs ago. My reason for change is that I want to be relatively free from a specimen once it is mounted. With DP, you need to groom a gamehead daily for the four or five days after mounting, watch eyelashes to make sure they dont turn skyward, tear ducts from opening up, ears from moving and lots of other places where skin can move. The amount of movement on a tanned skin is minimal compared to DP. DP gameheads will last a long time if they were properly fleshed and DP'd. The old mounts I have are still sound as far as preservation, its just my early taxidermy that was bad. I have used [a supply company] DP for 20 years. Prior to that I used Bess-Maid from Touchstone. I stopped using it because my wife did not like the moth-ball aroma that it emitted. When you begin mounting several gameheads per week, the logistics of going back over tons of work in the drying room gets tough.
Personally I will nto use DP on anything but BIRDS.
I feel I get better results plus have all the time I need or want and the skin is stable, hell its hair on leather.
My only other suggestion is this.
WHY DP when you have KROWTANN?
Just skin, split everything out and the KROWTANN will set the hair, I have done this several times, where if it was DPed I would have lost the mounts.
As you can see here folks don't like this person or his product. His name is removed from here cause of the actions he did s few years back. You can read all about this in the links area under copywrite laws.
Now as far as what he calls a dry tan is no more than Dry Preservative. It's a hoax and a shame that he calls it a dry tan. That's very misleading for it's not a tan at all.
As for Krowtan, I'm not a fan of it for I use different types of tanning (ez-100 and Liqua-tan) for my work but I've heard good from it but like any tan there's pros and cons. Try it you may like it or not but whatever tan you use always follow the directions.
We all have our OPINIONS. I just find it hard to believe how you can verify that a non-event would have happened if you hadn't made a certain decision. I guess I share Frank's opinion on that one.