Neutralizing Tell Me Why

Big talk on the tanning stuff someone please tell me what’s going to happen if I don’t , no disrespect but I don’t want to hear from people who have no background and do it because they were told XYZ . Let’s hear it from the experts , WHAT WILL HAPPEN TO MY MOUNTS IF I DONT NEUTRALIZE . Thanks

 

No one has an answer for me

 

This is why I’m asking , I have competition and clients mounts that are 20 years old , a lot done with Formic acid even and no issues, I’ve soaked them down and remounted some with no issues. No cracking, very plyable. I haven’t neutralized a cape in 20 plus years that’s hundreds of capes and no issues. I flesh , pickle , flesh on machine back in pickle for a day or two and pickle is 1.5 up to 2 then I hang it to drain or drip dry for hour or so then paint tanning cream on and let sit out for 6 hrs , at that time I freeze it or wash it in tide laundry detergent with a squirt of dawn . Then I wrap in towel to dry out then mount . In twenty plus years I’ve never had an issue and I can show you all my comp and show room mounts and not one has an issue, so please someone tell me why I must Neutralize and why or what’s going to happen.

 

And is what I thought thanks

 

Thank you and I agree with most said here but am confused one the preserved and tan part , why do you say there not tanned , I have and sell what I call a shop tanned hide , meaning if a client wants a wall hanger , let’s say a fox or otter , i explain if you just want it to hang I can do it cheaper here at the shop it will just not be soft as I won’t break it . I will run it thru the same process then blow the hair out and hang to dry , it’s cheaper then me sending it out .if you take one of these hides and pull on it after it’s dry you can see the whiteness and feel the stretch in it months later. I have taken same said hide a year later and soaked them down and mounted, with no issues and plenty of stretch and no slipping . I have seen No Ill effects from not running it thru a neutralizing bath and is what I’m trying to figure out . Please keep the input coming. I’m not trying to argue this point , but if I have a counter point that proves your theory different I will state it . As Joe said , is the washing I do actually also neutralizing it , as is what I’ve always thought. Thanks all

 

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How can I see of find out the amount of tanning cream effect I am getting from one of these capes and or hides . What will the difference be . As stated I get full stretch and ply ability with no cracking around eyes and such after years . Again I’m just trying to understand and figure this out . Thanks again

 

Well as much as I appreciate your info , I’m not buying it , just because you say it doesn’t mean it is or isn’t , there has to be a way to show me . You said if there was moisture reintroduced and there has been, many of times no issues. You are still saying there not tanned and yet they stretch after dried , are not rock hard and when bent they do break even after bending back and forth like a pcs of plastic or metal wood . I’ve had capes come from tannery and to me there is no difference, so what’s makes there’s tanned and mine preserved. I’ve been do this for 35 years so I’ve seen and know a lot I know what preserved means . The structure of hide as been changed and if and when I rehydrate a cape if not tanned it would either 1 not stretch or 2 swell and fall apart , this doesn’t happen. Thanks again but to me my question still hasn’t been answered.

 

I’m not questioning his answers as I appreciate them , I’m asking how can I tell and what is the difference, and if you read what I’ve posted I am going to counter . What is a tanned hide ? And how can you tell . From what I know and have seen my capes match all the criteria of a tanned cape . Thanks

 

Here is a couple pics of the back part of a cape stapled from a shoulder mount , I bent it down to show color and pliability , can we tell by this ?