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Sea Wolf
Last Activity:
Jan 22, 2019 at 1:54 PM
Joined:
Aug 30, 2006
Messages:
11,690
Likes Received:
320
Trophy Points:
83
Media:
3
Albums:
2
Gender:
Female
Birthday:
Oct 17, 1957 (Age: 61)
Location:
Taxachusetts

Sea Wolf

Well-Known Member, Female, 61, from Taxachusetts

Sea Wolf was last seen:
Jan 22, 2019 at 1:54 PM
    1. KYBeetleman
      KYBeetleman
      Hey man, new to the site and notice you seem to be one of more knowledgeable posters here. I have an issue with viewing some of the pictures. I keep seeing a "Update your account to see third party hosting" Any idea what I need to do to see the photos? Thanks
      1. Sea Wolf
        Sea Wolf
        Unfortunately, that is Photobucket and not the taxi site. People used Photobucket to host their photos for free. That site now charges money and prevents anyone from seeing the users pictures unless the user pays money. That is the message you see now on photobucket accounts. The Taxi site is fine. :) It isn't something you can fix but if you contact the poster with the broken pictures they might be able to fix them.
        Dec 15, 2018
      2. KYBeetleman
        KYBeetleman
        That's a bummer, lot of photos Id like to see on the old forums.

        I built my degreasing tank, works great but the water temp is 20 degree difference between clean heated water and the bucket w skull. I got 122 in the bucket steady, but 140 outside in laundry sink I converted. It works and holds nicely so no complaints there, just didn't expect that big a difference. That normal?
        Dec 16, 2018
      3. Sea Wolf
        Sea Wolf
        Are you circulating the clean water? Insulating the top of the bucket can help too. You can use bubblewrap, small plastic balls for sous vide cooking possibly even small ping pong balls. Anything to hold the heat in.
        Dec 17, 2018
    2. AZ~Rich
      AZ~Rich
      Hi I wanted to ask about your observations regarding the effects of ammonia solutions on the stainless bucket heating element? Is this something that appears to be an aggressive corrosion or slow process? Thanks
      1. Sea Wolf
        Sea Wolf
        It is an aggressive reaction. Did the label on your package state "Stainless steel"? If so, the whole element should have had a very thick layer of stainless. If the package said chromed, that might have been the error. Ammonia and a few metals can be just evil together. Copper is highly reactive with many things. Galvanized steel is another one.
        Dec 14, 2018
      2. Sea Wolf
        Sea Wolf
        After I had a bucket heater go south like that I took high temp silicone and put a heavy coating over all parts of it making sure there were no thin spots and every weld and junction point was well covered. No more issues after that.
        Dec 14, 2018
    3. ColtonPruitt
      ColtonPruitt
      Hi, I am trying to figure out some information about getting started with Maceration and how to go about it properly. I noticed that you mention utilizing the advanced search, however, I have spent the last couple of days (when I have the time) searching for "how-to's", 'beginner' threads, species specific threads without much luck. I hate to ask, but would you be willing or able to point me in a good direction?
      1. Sea Wolf
        Sea Wolf
        Just seeing this now. Not sure when you sent this. Mouse over where it says "Search". A drop down will open and you will see "More". Click on "More" and that brings you to the Advanced Search. Try good search terms like Maceration tutorial, maceration skulls, maceration cleaning .. etc.
        Dec 14, 2018
      2. Sea Wolf
        Sea Wolf
        I'm pretty sure that at least two of my own posts have "tutorial" in the title to help make them easier to find. Try checking "search titles only" to help narrow the results.
        Dec 14, 2018
    4. 406Beetles
      406Beetles
      Just wanted to let you know that your presence on this site has helped me out immensely. Thanks so much for sharing the information that you have gathered over the years with everyone who has started in this trade themselves.
    5. srholmes30
      srholmes30
      Hi, I wanted to let you know the peroxide soak worked. 3 days. Did the job thanks again.
    6. srholmes30
      srholmes30
      I'm from there lol I use the 40 volume peroxide would you recommend using it straight or mix with water. I thank you for your help.
      1. Sea Wolf
        Sea Wolf
        Use it straight. It burns so don't get it on your skin. If you do rinse well and curse until it stops hurting. Don't splash it or get it near your eyes either. Put the skull in something like a plastic shoe box or small container that it fits into without a huge amount of extra space.
        May 21, 2018
        srholmes30 likes this.
      2. Sea Wolf
        Sea Wolf
        Pour in the peroxide until as much of the skull is covered without getting it on the antlers (will turn them white). Take white paper towels and tear them into strips. Lay the strips up and over the part of the skull that isn't under peroxide. Tuck the strips under the antler burrs. The paper towel will get wet with peroxide and bring it up and over the top of the skull.
        May 21, 2018
        srholmes30 likes this.
    7. srholmes30
      srholmes30
      Thank you Sea Wolf, Are you from MA.?
      1. Sea Wolf
        Sea Wolf
        Yes. Called Taxachusetts just for fun.
        May 21, 2018
    8. srholmes30
      srholmes30
      Hi SeaWolf, I had question about a smell in a WT skull mount. the deer head did smell before I started, it has been decreased in dawn looks good but the odor. Seen some post soaking in peroxide or ammonia. Any help would be great.
      Scott
      1. Sea Wolf
        Sea Wolf
        By "smell" I assume the head was starting to decay before you cleaned it? How did you remove the flesh? If you cooked it off, bits of rotted tissue are still going to be trapped in tight areas inside the skull. Try soaking it in peroxide for at least a day if not two or three. The peroxide will do a lot to sterilize it and dissolve out bits of tissue. When you go to do this, if it is foaming a lot, it isn't clean.
        May 21, 2018
        srholmes30 likes this.
      2. Sea Wolf
        Sea Wolf
        How long did you degrease it for? Ammonia will help if it is grease but the fumes from it are horrid to work with.
        May 21, 2018
        srholmes30 likes this.
    9. charvey
      charvey
      Also can you remove the ear cartilage after it has been tanned?
      1. Sea Wolf
        Sea Wolf
        I did not see this till today. The tans I work with are dry tans and that would be a no. Once tanned the ears all become one and it's next to impossible to try and remove cartilage without ruining the skin. Possibly can be done with a wet tan but again, toss this out to the other guys and ask. The ones that work with the other tanning methods could answer better than I.
        May 21, 2018
    10. charvey
      charvey
      Sea Wolf, have a question for you. I was working on a my deer and noticed that I had not completely opened one of my ears. The deer hide has already been tanned and I thought was ready to be mounted, what do I need to do next?
      1. Sea Wolf
        Sea Wolf
        Hi, To be honest, I do little fur work. My forte is skull and bone work. If you toss that out as a question in the Game Head section or one of the taxidermy sections you'll get some good answers from some great people.
        Mar 20, 2018
    11. sbane01
      sbane01
      Can you Please update me on the 27% stuff you are refering too? What do i need to tell my Pool Supplier it is Exactly? Been reading up on this stuff and i really think it my help me. Thank You
      1. Sea Wolf
        Sea Wolf
        Hi, Not sure if this is old or new. Still getting used to this new forum. .... 27% peroxide has several brand names. Baquacil Oxidizer and Pool Mate are two that I know of. It is VERY important to specify a shock for **Non Chlorinated Pools**.
        Mar 20, 2018
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    Gender:
    Female
    Birthday:
    Oct 17, 1957 (Age: 61)
    Location:
    Taxachusetts

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