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Scale pockets

Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by winks33, Mar 6, 2014.

  1. winks33

    winks33 Member

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    Hi all,

    I got a brown trout replica with some pretty deep scale pockets. Any suggestions on how best to fill them up. Someone suggested laquer putty but I hear it bleeds and shrinks over time.

    Thanks,
    Dan
     
  2. 3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

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    Could you elaborate? Are you saying that you have too much detail on blank? If this is the case maybe add layers of primer till you like the look of it.
     

  3. Jimmy Lawrence

    Jimmy Lawrence Well-Known Member

    Brush some tuff fin in the pitting or use some glazing putty. Both work fine. Used them on many browns and other spawning trout.
     
  4. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    If you're talking about the upper back where they develop those regular indents/pits then depending on the blank, I tend to leave it. After all, that's what the fish was like when caught! Plus, upper back will not be nearly as noticeable as a lot of folks think. As long as they're regular it actually looks fine when finished...
     
  5. winks33

    winks33 Member

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    Thanks guys, it's a spawning brown with deep scale pockets and some missing scales too. The belly is the problem area. Lots of pits.
     
  6. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    I've actually filled them in with Magic Sculpt or Apoxy Sculpt if you wet it down enough. Then sand when it's set up.
     
  7. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    Cecil, couldn't you just use spot putty/glaze? You know the stuff you use to fill indents on cars? I've used it before on some restores and some reps filling shallow indents. I haven't heard back from any customers so I'm assuming (lol) the putty held up!
     
  8. Brian W

    Brian W Well-Known Member

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    I'm with Cecil only I'd use Magic Smooth.....you can really feather that stuff great........
     
  9. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    I don't see why not.
     
  10. amigo

    amigo No habla Espanol

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    If the blank is molded from a fresh fish I would use some mod podge thinned a bit with water to fill slightly but still leave a natural subtle depression. If the fish is molded from a skin mount, well that is another story. Shrinkage has occurred and there will need some sanding filling and recreating the natural look (in other words not a circle or oval but rather a comma or diamond shape) if your as anal as I can be.
     
  11. hambone

    hambone Well-Known Member

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    MAgic smooth works good on skin mount brown with deep pockets.
     
  12. den007

    den007 Active Member

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    I have at times used the stuff for sheet rock finishing. Some of dries real nice and it is dirt cheap and feathers well. As for pockets, I rarely touch them.
     
  13. M.T.

    M.T. Active Member

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    I've found that spot putty is the best stuff. It dries super fast, it's easy to spread with your finger, and easy to sand. It doesn't shrink and it looks pertty!!! You know, red!!!
     
  14. Cecil

    Cecil Well-Known Member

    How many of you know why this happens on some spawning male trout especialy brown trout?
     
  15. Perca

    Perca Well-Known Member

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    10 years ago........http://www.taxidermy.net/forums/FishTaxiArticles/04/l/0484970A07.html
     
  16. FishArt

    FishArt Well-Known Member

    Rather interesting with some of the techniques. One of which Frank recommends an orbital sander. I guess I'd have a couple of questions/concerns with that approach. Maybe Frank will hop in here and clarify? Anyway, with sanding any skin mount it's been my experience to first use some sort of sanding sealer. I use a lacquer based wood sanding sealer cut with 50% lacquer. Secondly, even with sanding sealer the skin will start to "fuzz up" once you sand too much on a skin mount. It's my sign to stop sanding and re-seal. Sanding, I've only ever done by hand b/c getting to the fuzz point happens rather quickly. I'm just not so sure Frank wasn't talking about a replica vs. a skin mount? Clarification?