Antler set ?

They appear back too far and a little low, but you are close. Most deer I measure, it is around 2 1/4" from center of eye orbit to the closest bump on the antler bur, if that makes sense?

 

you can always use a wood block and pick the antlers straight up. Just cut you a block to fit under the skull plate. I typically use 1/4" plywood until you get your desired height. Once you are close, clay work or whatever you plan to use to fill in the gaps around the skull plate should take care of the rest. I typically eyeball the base of the antler with the form and make sure the antlers are not going to be sitting down to far on the form, you don't want a "dip" look when you are done.

hope this helps, but I would agree with 3 bears, your angle looks fine, they just need to be picked up a little bit.

 

The antlers need to be tilted a little more forward. If you draw an imaginary line straight down the main antler it should go through the middle of eye and hit the corner of mouth, roughly. That is what I look at.

 

Should have said that the imaginary line should pass between corner of mouth and tip of nose closer to the mouth corner

 

Put a ball of clay under the skull cap, then put your screws in and adjust as needed. Then you can bondo them, trim and remove. Now slip your cape on and set the antlers in place and fit the cape. In the future don't cut the skull cap so small. Cut in from the back of the skull down about a 1/4 " straight to the center of the eye socket. Then you can use a belt sander to fit the cap to the form.

 

Bondo with chopped fiberglass, mix it hot so you don’t have to hold it long !
Trim before it gets to hard ! Easy peasy !

 

Yes the clay will hold it in place while you bondo it, Then you can remove the clay and fill with bondo if you like

 

It's not that you "screwed up"... you're fine.
What Tazzy said... if you leave yourself more skull cap, it's much easier to sand (belt sander ) or grind down to where you need to be, than it is to rebuild. You can get there either way, but you'll find you have MUCH more control of the situation getting there with a belt sander. If you don't have a belt sander, it would be a wonderful small investment... a thousand uses.
In the present situation, use the Bondo to build it back up to where you wanna be, just like Tazzy said. Personally, I put a very light film of vaseline on top of the form where the Bondo will go. Makes it pop back off super easy.
My GUESS is... when you bring the skull plate up... sure, your nose to tip measurement will increase a little, but then if you tip forward (and I think you need to a little) your measurement will come back to (or close) to where you need to be.
Good luck

 

The form on those have a pretty tall head. I sand/rasp down the top of the head to match your measurements, form is not always right. Tip rack forward a bit to follow nose line if that is what the deer anatomy was on yours. Test fit and make sure your skin fits nice around burrs and doesn't give you oriental eyes.

 

I have that issue with McKenzie's tall headed forms too. I don't have it at all with OTS or Matuska or the newer 6900, the antlers sit where they're supposed to and the form lines up.

 

if your measurements match up go for it