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A problem with my Iwata HP-BC

Discussion in 'Fish Taxidermy' started by bmcgill, Feb 15, 2018.

  1. Feb 15, 2018 #1
    bmcgill

    bmcgill New Member

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    0
    I can't get my trigger on my Iwata HP-BC plus to spring back up after I depress the trigger. It will come back up slightly, but it won't pop back up to shut the paint/air flow completely. This is especially maddening when I am painting spots on a fish mount. I am an experienced taxidermist, so I DO clean my airbrush well. I take the entire airbrush apart and hit the parts with lacquer thinner (I use good, new, lacquer paint) then I coat the parts with Iwata Superlube. I even take the enclosed trigger spring off the bottom of the airbrush and spray it with lacquer thinner. Can anybody help me with this problem? Thank you.
     
  3. Feb 15, 2018 #2
    3bears

    3bears Well-Known Member

    7,072
    3,797
    MN
    I don't own one of those but, is it like the Paasche? It threads on and and loosens on occasion and does the same thing.
     

  5. Feb 15, 2018 #3
    Cory

    Cory Keep an eye on quality!

    1,017
    209
    Kansas
    Sometimes they will wear out. Mine has done this one other time and I just worked through it with the lube. If not, call the Iwata department in Washington and get a return #. I just had two of mine gone through and they work great now.
     
  6. Feb 15, 2018 #4
    WLELTD

    WLELTD Active Member

    759
    134
    take the air valve out ,clean the little plunger like pin that your trigger pushes on ,sometimes the gasket gets sticky and wont let the plunger come back up
     
    Mudbat likes this.
  7. Feb 15, 2018 #5
    bmcgill

    bmcgill New Member

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    Yes, it is very similar to the Paasche, but it is easier to get off the airbrush body. It has a self-contained plunger down inside of it that I have not figured out how to get to.
     
  8. Feb 15, 2018 #6
    bmcgill

    bmcgill New Member

    6
    0
    I think this must be it. I clean it and lube it, but it just doesn't have the spring to force the trigger closed and stop the air flow. Thank you for you help.
     
  9. Feb 15, 2018 #7
    bmcgill

    bmcgill New Member

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    Thank you for the suggestion. I have taken the plunger assembly off and put thinner down in it. (I wish I could figure out how to get inside of the assembly to assure myself that I did clean it properly.) I then added the superlube but it just doesn't seem to work. I will try to do it some more, maybe I am not cleaning it as well as I think I am. Thank you for your reply and suggestion.
     
  10. Feb 16, 2018 #8
    socalmountainman

    socalmountainman Northwestern School of Taxidermy - Class of '73

    1,629
    1,409
    Lompoc, CA
    On occasion, the needles in my Paasche's (almost 30 years old now!) seemed to move with more friction, not as smooth, like the passage was dirty.The air brush lube I used felt sticky, almost like brake fluid feels. After researching on the internet, I found that many artists were using vegetable oil to lube there needles. I tried Wesson Oil! You don't need much, just a touch, but boy what a difference. Make sure to clean the old lube out and try the Wesson and see if this works.
     
  11. Feb 18, 2018 #9
    Pescado

    Pescado Biggest in 2011

    2,671
    50
    Western Michigan
    o rings can be solvent sensative, laquer thinner not good to spay in there. paint should never get in there anyway , so no need to flush it.
     
  12. Feb 27, 2018 #10
    bmcgill

    bmcgill New Member

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    Thank you for your reply.
     
  13. Feb 27, 2018 #11
    bmcgill

    bmcgill New Member

    6
    0
    Thank you for your reply.