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Air Stapler?

Discussion in 'Beginners' started by Nitrosteel, Jul 28, 2020.

  1. Nitrosteel

    Nitrosteel New Member

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    This is my first post. I’m just getting into taxidermy and trying to get my shop supplies and tools together. I’ve been doing European mounts for a while and feel like I’ve got this down pretty well.

    I know I need an air stapler, but haven’t been able to find out exactly the kind of stapler I need. Can you give me some examples of the staplers you use for $150 or less (or do I need to spend more)? I’m talking about for use while doing shoulder mounts. Exactly what type of staples will I be using?

    Thank you for your help. There is a ton of great information here. I’m sure I’ll be asking more questions soon.
     
  2. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    Anything that shoots a 9/16 staple will work. I got a cheap one from harbor freight. I keep it oiled with WD40 . Have shot thousands of staples with no issues. Think it was like $89 .
     

  3. Nitrosteel

    Nitrosteel New Member

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    How wide of a staple do I need? Do I basically need an upholstery stapler?

    thank you.
     
  4. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    T 50 is what mine shoots
    I’ll take a pic tomorrow and post what it is
     
  5. joeym

    joeym Old Murphey

    I think mine came from Harbor Freight. I use one that has a 3/16" (6mm) crown. For the backs of deer, I use a 5/8" length staple. If you will apply glue to the outer 2 inches of the backboard, you can fold the skin over and it will adhere without any staples at all. I use staples mainly to keep alignment on the brisket and armpits. I take apart a lot of old heads. Golly, those guys must have been mad at their wife when mounting a deer...some will have a staple every half inch all the way around!!!

    Additionally, be sure to add a few drops of oil at least weekly to your stapler...a cheap one will last a long time when oiled regularly.
     
    tem and Tanglewood Taxidermy like this.
  6. Lance.G

    Lance.G Well-Known Member

    IV never used one. Use a good hide paste like pro 1. You can’t rip it off when the glue cures.
     
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  7. Frank E. Kotula

    Frank E. Kotula master, judge, instructor

    How the heck are you glueing the back of your skins to the backboard or why are you doing this? Lol
    I have a ridgid and use 1/4” stables .
    Not every air gun uses oil so don’t just by a gun and then put oil in one that is oil less. Air guns have changed as ridgid is a bit more commercial as I use it on more things than just stabling hides to the back of forms.
    Pick one you like or can afford, as long as it does what your needs are you’ll be fine.
     
    tem likes this.
  8. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    As promised 889D2E1C-79B2-4643-B4E3-19E8AD93B732.jpeg 4E34B976-1647-42D9-AA40-C704C4D7D1E7.jpeg EA0617B3-7974-4589-B1D5-727393A1BC54.jpeg BC0D9D74-DE78-4AC8-8F0E-F4CDC9228C9B.jpeg
     
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  9. Nitrosteel

    Nitrosteel New Member

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    Thank y’all. This is helpful.
     
  10. Lance.G

    Lance.G Well-Known Member

    Why not? I taxie my skin where it needs to be, cut excess, apply some glue around the first 1” of the wood, lay the skin. I use pro 1 hide paste and it stays right there.
     
    Frank E. Kotula likes this.
  11. socalmountainman

    socalmountainman Northwestern School of Taxidermy - Class of '73

  12. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    Now that I think about it , $89 was probably with the hose retraction gizmo .
     
  13. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Lance, I'm just not going to respond to your comments. I just hope you aren't teaching others.

    Now, the pneumatic staplers. Before I give MY OPINION of them, let me say they are like the AK47. They are exceptionally cheap, even more dependable, and they do a terrific job. I have two of them in my shop. I use them often in woodwork. And I wouldn't piss on either one for taxidermy.
    In another life I did upholstery and didn't have a compressor. I found the Duo-Fast line of carpet and upholstery staplers. They are a bit pricey but I used the same one for 40 years. This is a professional unit and has no similarity to the knock-off Back&Decker or Arrow staplers. They run between $200 and $325. I used their 1/4" crown x 9/16 carpet staples (they have helical points so that they turn at opposing angles and do NOT pull out easily like chisel points.) The air stapler just limited ME in what I could do and move about. I hated the hose, I hated the compressor kicking in and I hated having my range limited. I could give seminars anywhere there was electricity.
    Many of you have your shop plumbed with air lines and reels overhead and im sure that makes life easier for you. I was just using the electric when I lived in military housing and got used to it.
    When I sold my shop, the stapler went with it. Two weeks later, I ordered a new one that's proven just as invaluable with the woodworking and upholstery work.
     
  14. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    If you can trust your hide paste to keep the skin glued to the form and into the valleys and stay there, you can trust it to hold to the back board. If you can't trust it to hold your skin to the backboard, it's time to invest in another hide paste.
     
    Lance.G likes this.
  15. Dave Byrd

    Dave Byrd Active Member

    I agree with George on the Duo-Fast. I bought one used on ebay for $100 about 6 years ago. BEST electric stapler I've owned! It's fast, reliable and drives a 9/16 staple easily through any skin and into the back board. No loud compressor or hoses...just plug it in ang go.
     
  16. tem

    tem Well-Known Member

    i bought an electric one at a garage sale about 5-6 ago. sure glad i did. bam bam im done.
     
  17. 13 point

    13 point Well-Known Member

    Here’s the thing , I run so many other things off my air compressor it only makes sense to use it for staples to . Now when I had no need for the other things, I did use a electric stapler . That said the air stapler shoots so much better and deeper IMO
     
  18. 15pt

    15pt Well-Known Member

    304
    324
    Alabama
    Agree 100%. I still put a few behind the armpits.
     
  19. Tanglewood Taxidermy

    Tanglewood Taxidermy Well-Known Member

    I use staples as needed. Usually 4 to 8 and it's not because I'm afraid the glue isn't going to hold. I use hide paste and do the same on my antler mounts and they remain as tight as a drum.
     
  20. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    13 Point, you are correct about staple depth on most commercial electric staplers but the Duo-Fast is a completely different animal. Staple are driven flush to the surface. Thin skinned animals need extra care. Ive stapled aluminum flashing to plywood and had the staple driven through the flashing. On upholstery, it will flush nail brocade to oak, ash, and poplar without being able to feel the staple head.

    Now you "no staple" guys. Im sorry but I'm calling bull ship on that remark. I was a test bed for epoxy hide paste. None of the stuff you claim to be so great can hold a candle to epoxy paste. EVER! But that never stopped the common sense practice of stapling a hide to the back board. On pedestals, I Dremeled slots to tuck the hides and then drove 3 inch japan pins into the slots to onsure the damp hide stayed in place until the glue cured. The idea of not securing a hide to a backpanel seems senseless to me.