Neutralizing Tell Me Why

Yes the tanning cream is a must but not because of the tanning agent that is in the oil , it’s because the oil is lubricating
When properly used liquid PH indicators dropped on a cross-section of the skin could give you a better idea of what’s happening but it’s certainly no guarantee of tanning

Jim I am a commercial Tanner with over 60 years of experience in Heron and leather and I would like to back up what Keith Daniell just said it is the oxidized natural fat that’s left in the skin by an even degreasing of the skin it takes a degreaser that will lacerate the fat cells and all of them and at least 20 to 45 minutes of running in a wet dream or stop much mechanical action to achieve a more equal degreasing

 

Damn I can’t figure out how to correct the voice typing and what I said it should be un even degreasing

 

Go to David Byrd's and joeym"s websites and admire their amazing work. Realize that they are all DP'd and you will realize that you can skip the pickle and tanning cream too and produce mounts with the same quality that you are doing now.

At the end of my taxidermy career, I started using Headquarter's preservant "tan". It was an all in one in a bottle. Shave your green hide shake your bottle and apply. Wash in their degreasing wash and mount. No salt, no pickle, no neutralizing, no cream, oil ,or soak that claims to tan the hide. Just a preservant that stabilizes the skin. It was easy to stretch and taxi, sew, and finish and it smelled good. It's been several years now and they all are holding up great!

 

Jim, are those skins we did for you?

13 point, I think you're over simplifying it. First, the term neutralize is misleading. The mineral tans and probably most synthetics don't go to neutral, 7.0, they need to remain in a slightly acidic state. Easiest way to explain it is a magnet, opposites attract. The pickle charges the vast majority of the fibers with one charge, the tanning agent is the opposite charge so when the tan is introduced to the fibers they are attracted to the fibers. For this attraction to happen there is a certain pH range the skin needs to be in. After the skin has been in solution long enough for the tan to be penetrated all through the fibers, and attracted to them they need to be bonded. There is also a certain pH range where the bonding takes place, so your solution needs to be raised to that range, but it will still be acidic, not neutral.

If you get above the proper bonding range one of two things can happen, the bond will be broken and the tan basically washed out, or the tanning agent will bond to itself, creating a stiff skin with a scratchy feel.

Do you need to "neutralize"? No, should you? Absolutely and according to the particular system you are using.

 

A whole lot of truth there Monte!

 

Keith, no you did not tan them. Client got them out west.

 

That makes me feel better!