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Degreasing with acetone, Baquacil

Discussion in 'Skulls and Skeletons' started by ReporterSr, Mar 3, 2009.

  1. ReporterSr

    ReporterSr If you think education is expensive, try ignorance

    I know acetone and hydrogen peroxide is a dangerous combination. I'm currently moving various skulls into acetone to degrease after soaking them in a Dawn, ammonia solution. I'd like to move them back and forth between acetone and BO to speed things up. I have to dry the skulls before going from one to the other, right? Is one day's drying time sufficient to avoid a disaster?
     
  2. MattHCT

    MattHCT New Member

    I asked this question and got plenty of info. Just search it out. I personally rinse mine when switching
     

  3. chasintail

    chasintail New Member

    I'd give it at least two days depending on the skull. I've had a small amount of baquacil in a small bowl with teeth for over a week and it is just as potent at the end of that week as at the beginning. If you have any areas in the skull that haven't dried or where BO has pooled inside the skull, a day is not enough to dry or neutralize the BO by any means. For example, I have had deer skulls come out of BO, dry for 1-2 days and then go back in my water/dawn etc mix only to find that it slightly whitened the antlers up to the water level.

    I allow my skulls to dry for a 1-2 between degreasing and whitening and 2-3 days between BO and going back to degreasing. I also put a heat lamp over them at every stage where they need to dry.
     
  4. ReporterSr

    ReporterSr If you think education is expensive, try ignorance

    One of the skulls in progress is a loggerhead sea turtle. The bone is really porous and loaded with fat/grease. I'd guess, even if I rinse it first with water, that it would still need lots of drying time before switching back and forth between acetone and BO. It may be faster to move it back and forth between the Dawn/ammonia solution and BO.

    A Florida box turtle isn't nearly as greasy. A feral boar needs the acetone to remove a crappy acrylic sealer I used before it was completely degreased. Now it's darkening as the grease works its way out. I thought I'd finished the boar almost a year ago!! I really dislike working with acetone, but at lease here in the Everglades I can always work outside with it.
     
  5. Sea Wolf

    Sea Wolf Well-Known Member

    Acetone-dry for 24 hours to be sure. BO-rinse well with water and let dry for maybe 2 days before putting into acetone. You can also drop the BO soaked bone into HOT water. It forces the peroxide to break down much faster. Leave it till it cools then dry.

    You can also try straight ammonia to degrease, even heated. For large bones I have even rigged an aquarium pump and tubing to pump ammonia up off the bottom of a container and over the top of large bones so it runs down and flows over the surfaces.
     
  6. ReporterSr

    ReporterSr If you think education is expensive, try ignorance

    I'm experimenting. From the acetone after a day there I have rinsed a couple skulls and without drying have put them into the Dawn/ammonia solution where they stayed a day. Then I rinsed them well, dried for only long enough that the surface was dry, then put them into the BO. That was late yesterday and that's where they are this morning (Sunday). I'll check them around lunch time.
     
  7. jonscut

    jonscut Member

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    I've been using a old food dehydrator to speed up the drying process. If you see one at a yard sale cheap they are worth their weight. You can throw small skulls in there are they are dry with in a couple of hours. Most deer can be dried in four to five even with the door open and horns sticking out. If your drying one straight out of a acetone bath imagine that it would take less than a half hour to dry due to acetones evaporation point. Having said that YOU WOULD NOT WANT TO RUN IT ON HIGH HEAT due to its low flash point.
     
  8. ReporterSr

    ReporterSr If you think education is expensive, try ignorance

    Ah, yes, acetone is such a delight to work with. ;)
     
  9. ReporterSr

    ReporterSr If you think education is expensive, try ignorance

    I didn't check them yesterday at lunch because I got sidetracked onto something else. I did this morning and Whoa!!! For the first time using BO I had gobs of yellow grease floating on the surface. The improvement was dramatic but the skulls still have a few small yellow spots. So I put them back into the Dawn/ammonia solution. The plan is leave them there a day or so, then put them back into the acetone and then again into the BO. They are turtle shells, and I was beginning to despair I wouldn't ever get them finished.
     
  10. jasonz

    jasonz New Member

    Hello I am new to this so please bear with me. My first ? is what is the proper way to degrease a skull and what does acetone do. I have just tried dawn.
     
  11. Sea Wolf

    Sea Wolf Well-Known Member

    Jason ... Go to the top "SEARCH" window and type in "DEGREASING" also type in "ACETONE". You have a lot of reading to do. :)

    Also try "Degreasing Skulls" ... or any other combinations you can think of.
     
  12. jasonz

    jasonz New Member

    Thank you very much.
     
  13. I want to try Acetone on a stubborn deer skull that's been degreasing for over a month and still has two small grease spots on the forehead. I searched the archives for hours last night and read of people doing it with deer, and I know it needs to be sealed, but I found nothing on how to seal off the container with antlers sticking out. Could I use like a galvanized trash can with a trash bag or something taped over the top?
     
  14. MR.Ed

    MR.Ed New Member

    The trash bag would work that way you can customize the lid to the antlers. The only thing is make sure it doesn't touch the acetone. It will eat the bag quicker than you can imagine.
     
  15. bowhuntnnut

    bowhuntnnut 210-260-0190

    55 gallon drum. I put the skull in a 2 gallon tin with my degreaser and then set them both in the drum and put the top on. Keep the vapors in check and prevents evaporation to a degree. Works for all but the axis/fallow. I have a 95 gallon recovery drum for those.