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African Mounting

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by Memory Maker, Sep 11, 2008.

  1. Memory Maker

    Memory Maker New Member

    I have 10 African animals that I will be mounting in two weeks.Looking for any and all suggestions on mounting these animals.I have mounted several deer and antelope.The hide are tanned by south Texas fur dressers.I have been told Africans are more difficult than north American animals,but no one has been able to tell me how.I am most concerned with the warthogs,but also have Impala,Kudu and Gemsbok.Thank for any help you can offer.
  2. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Good luck. If you've only mounted "several deer and antelope", your about to get your first bath under fire. African game mounts with the same principles, but hardly ever with the ease of North American game. The Warthog is really going to be a challenge since you'll have lots of clay and epoxy work in order to get the "warts" correct.

  3. Memory Maker

    Memory Maker New Member

    What do you mean by but hardly ever with the ease of north american game
  4. srholmes30

    srholmes30 Living each and every day

    Hi I don't mount many african gameheads but I have seen alot of skins in real bad shape.cut wrong,ears not turned ,skinning cuts etc.Try some videos from Research Mannikins they have some.Gemsbok,springbok,not sure if they have anything new?But you may pick up some tips.Good luck. ;)
  5. Grafton

    Grafton New Member

    Some of the main differences are: the hair is shorter and repairs and seams are harder to hide. There is more "extra" skin to deal with and create wrinkles with. The skins will usually require repairs. There is much more finish work to do. There are less choices in forms =more alterations for size and position.

    As with any mounts, most of the work is done before the "mounting" and after the mounting. If you find things are not going well, you need to spend more time on your prep work.

    Spend as much money and time as you can afford on reference materials from supply catalogs, magazines, videos, web photos, etc..

    Test fit a lot and do not mount until the fit is right- "loose"

    stretch the cape well before mounting

    do not get frustrated because your "pace" is slower than what you are used to.

    Learn where the wrinkles go and where they do not go. Learn how big the wrinkles are , how many there are etc..

    study the angle of the horns on the skull and learn it well before you cut.

    learn the "invisible stitch"

    thin your seams well before mounting

    learn to use an airbrush well and mix a lot of colors

    In order to get a "soft" look, you will have to do some sculpting with clay, details, wrinkles, etc...

    use Critter Clay

    use lots of a good hide paste

    bag your mount the first night

    lots of finish work- horn to hair areas, hair slip areas, seams, horn damage, skin colors, etc..

    If you plan on doing more African work, save every scrap piece of tanned skin for future repairs.

  6. James Marsico

    James Marsico Well-Known Member

    1st soak them up and get your mannikin catalog out and use it as your guide to see what size they are for ordering the forms. What you think and measure on the faces and what they are will be different. 2" down from the ears neck measure is usually the best guide. Order on the small or exact size. Freeze everything. Good African taxidermy is advanced taxidermy and they will take at least twice the time for you to mount and if the skins are bad and some will be 4 to 6 times as long; a newbie taxidermist should probably count on a 10 hour day to do a nice job mounting and sewing the impala shoulder mount. Only try mounting one at a time and start with the impala as it is the "easiest" and will give you a feel for the rest of the work.