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Discussion in 'Skulls and Skeletons' started by machine gun man, Feb 1, 2009.

  1. how do u go about a euro on pronghorn? any special procedure dealing with horns? will i be faced with cores? -sorry for sounding dumb but that is not a native critter to MS.- neighbor asked if i could do it? so, i reckon i need a lil tutorial.. i know it cant b as easy as a WT deer.
  2. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    The cases of the horns will likely slip off if it's fresh. Either way the MUST come off. When you get them off, DP the inside of them and let them dry. Clip the cores about 1/3 off the tips, then do whatever you're going to do with it and the skull. When the skull is done, treat it like you would any other. Then you boil a pot of water. Stick the bases of the horn cases into the water for about 30 seconds. That should make them pliable. IF THEY ARE, paint some 5 minute epoxy on the core and inside the case and press the horn down over the core. Hold it there until the epoxy kicks. Repeat on the other side. DO NOT BOIL THE CASES. They will split.

  3. I have never had them slip off when fresh, thats when they are hardest to move. Heres my whole method. Go to your local landfill, and find the biggest microwave(like your gramma prob stil has)(mine stil does,lol), grab a couple incase one don't work. Ok, prep the antelope as if it were ready for the beetles(I assume your using beetles), no lower jaw makes this easier, place the head in the micro, place on high for 3:30, take it out, try pulling the sheaths off(with heavy gloves), if no success, place back in micro for 45sec to a 1min, ands then they should pull off, takes a little, but this works very well. Next clean the skull and whiten it the way your planning on. By the way, don"t forget to measure the spred on the horns before pulling off. When putting the horns back on, I use a mini hot glue gun, about a half inch up inside the sheath, start putting the glue at least a 1/4 in thick all the way around inside the sheath(this has to be done fairly fast before the glue sets up), slide the sheaths back on the cores, down bout 3/8in off the skull where they came off from. This work for me, and i hope it helps you.
  4. thx, think i got it. sounds like the biggest prob. will be getting cases off. will give er a whirl. and my, god! the microwave trick sounds like it will leave a stinch from high heaven. :eek: sometimes u gotta do what u gotta do
  5. No stench, even do it outside or in garage, just don't use the micro in the house!!!!, but i would try that way of removal, no water soaking, that will make them fall apart.
  6. These will be the easiest horn to get off. I cut just under the base and then simmer geltly, they will come off with a slight twist. Or you can rot them off which will not take very much time at all.
  7. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Northern Skulls, that's the FIRST thing professional taxidermists warn people NOT to do. Microwaving them simply heats up the core and can AND WILL explode the caseing. When pronghorn season is usually in for gun, the horns are within days of coming off naturally. If they don't, put them in a garbage bag with a cup of water and seal it up for a couple days. They slip right off. IF they don't, cut unter the edge and twist firmly. But whatever you do NEVER MICROWAVE PRONGHORN HORNS.
  8. Thats odd, cause thats how i learned was from a couple taxidermists. To my knowledge, antelope never loose their horns ???
  9. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    OK, that explains everything right there. Only took two sentences.
  10. Ted B

    Ted B Active Member

    Antelope DO lose their horns! Especially if pressured by hunting, I've seen them with horns one minute then gone the next

    When I do my antelope euros I either rot the core off or I have simmered them off if the hunter wants them back asap for scoring.
  11. outdoorman

    outdoorman New Member

    George, funny your reply to #7. Here in Montana our antelope season is very long and the last few weeks you may get the horns to pull of when fresh but the first couple weeks of season forget it. Sweat (rot) them off as George mentioned is best. Do all your prep work first and after getting the horns off I trim the cartiledge like material off horn bases then beetles. Do ALL your degreasing and whitening before attaching horns. Personally I use automotive body filler (bondo) to re-attach. Tried to gt some horns off once and there is absolutely no chance. I do some extra work with bondo around base for extra good look and wipe a coat of linseed oil on horns when done to shine them up and really bring out the black.
    Dale Loescher likes this.
  12. MR.Ed

    MR.Ed New Member

    oh no bondo...... I'll say it for you George... When did bondo become an adhesive?
  13. jonscut

    jonscut Member

    I use bondo as well. Mr Ed it is a pretty commonly used product for this application as well as putting forms together and so on. Also as George stated I always rot all horns off. I've seen some disasters created from boiling horns.
  14. outdoorman

    outdoorman New Member

    Yea mister ed, you may not consider bondo an adhesive but try getting a horn of an antelope after attaching with it. Just my system, have done alot of antelope over last 20 years and it works for me. Now tell me they are not an antelope, they are an american pronghorn, I know!! Just kiddin with you, but bondo does work great, adhesive or not.
  15. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    Outdoorsman, you already have TWO strikes, don't try for three at such a young age. If you'd bothered to read about that, you'd find that I USED to use Bondo. I had a B&C head in my shop and the horns were Bondoed on. The customer picked the animal up by the horn to carry it home and the head bounced across the floor dislodging the OTHER horn. Talk about an embarassing moment.

    Bondo is FIBERGLASS RESIN AND HARDENER. Fiberglass resin and hardener won't even stick to itself in separate coats once cured so don't tell me it will adhere. Epoxy is an adhesive and is the safest bet on antelope horns cause OBVIOUSLY you don't know that pronghorn horns are simply modified hair. When you pull the cases, you expose thousands of these hairs on the core. That means the the Bondo is depending on those hairs to hold the two together and if the Bondo got wet or got oil on it, the fiberglass is NOT going to stick.
  16. outdoorman

    outdoorman New Member

    Hey George, not doubting epoxy is the best or your misfortune with bondo. Just stating what has worked good for me. Have been around antelope for 40 plus years and know very well that the horns are hair. You should'nt be so quick to assume someone does not know certain things. When using bondo I use it at least half way up into the horn and don't skimp with it, maybe why I have had such good luck. The horns I tried getting off after this method absolutely would not give at all. I don't always believe there is an absolute right and wrong way to things, just different ways, maybe some better than others. Was just mentioning my system, sorry if you don't approve. As far as your not simmering horns off or microwave I agree completely, just asking for problems.
  17. jonscut

    jonscut Member

    Ouch George I dont know where the 2 strikes came from for outdoorsman but like many people I'll argue the bondo with you as well. I've been using it for years and never had a problem. Epoxy may be alittle more insurance but I've seen epoxy that was left in the heat of a car fail and the bond fall apart as well. If everthing is cleaned right and you pour the bondo down the sheath the shape of the horn and the porous core alway seemed to bond securely for me. I use it on domestic and north American sheep as well. Now that I've said that the next one I do will probably fall apart. I alway clean the horns with soap, water and a bottle brush and borax them maybe this helps.
  18. George

    George The older I get, the better I was.

    jon, let me count them for you. There was (1) microwave, (2) horns don't shed, and (3) Bondo. Now I'm not calling anyone a liar, but epoxy just happens to be one thing I know a bit about and "left in the heat of a car" is about the biggest pile of BS I've ever heard. That's not to say it didn't evaporate past the point of usefulness, but what did you do, leave it in a Mercury in 1958 and just use it last year? It's just silly that taxidermist continue to defend a product that was never designed for the purposes its being used. We stopped using arsenic years ago, stopped using lead earliners, stopped using Liquid Nails for earliners and stopped using sulfuric acid in pickle. We stopped using wrapped bodies (well at least most of us did) and when better adhesives came along we switched, but at least once a week somebody is going to come on here and extol the values of BONDO. I've actually had people tell me to use Bondo for ears and once it hardens, pull it out, sand it and put them back in with hide paste. Now why the hell would I want to do that when I could use an earliner and epoxy? Because "we've always done it that way" won't change the chemistry of the product nor the facts.
  19. Joe Winsor

    Joe Winsor Active Member

    Wow, here I am working on my very FIRST Pronghone Antelope and I come across this post!!

    I'm new and want to avoid mistakes.
    Thanks George for already committing the "head bouncing off the floor after the customer picked it up by the horn" mistake for me! That's one of the beauties of Taxidermy.net. Rookies and dummy's like me can learn from the Veteran's mistakes.

    I will be going with the Epoxy!
  20. MattHCT

    MattHCT New Member

    Before you pull the sheaths you'll want to make reference of how hogh the sheaths sit. I drill a small hole at the base of the sheath into the bone. A hole just big enough to insert a T pin. This will allow you to reference the elevation of the sheath so you don't press them down to far on the cores. You can use apoxie sculpt to fill the tiny hole when ypur done