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question for DP guys

Discussion in 'Deer and Gameheads' started by Dave H, Feb 25, 2009.

  1. Dave H

    Dave H New Member

    564
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    ohio
    I myself only used tanned hides, either done myself or commercially tanned. Wet and dry, depends on what kind of critter it is. After reading some of the other posts about using DP I was doing some thinking. I know that half the deer I take in are covered in blood and mud and leaves and all kinds of other crap. Scabs and puss pockets, ticks , you name it. I wash all my capes thouroghly after tanning and then tumble in hardwood saw dust. They come out fluffy, smelling good and look great. White is very white and colors are vivid. How do DP guys clean the capes to insure that they aren't giving there customer a big stinky Sh_t bomb to hang in their house? Spraying perfume on one will mostly likely smell like a big stinky sh_t bomb with perfume on it. I watched a guy do a seminar once and the cape had dried blood on it. a person in the crowd asked how he removed it and he said he brushed them down after they were dry. Doesn't seem like a good method of cleaning to me.
     
  2. HAPP

    HAPP Active Member

    Totally agree with you.
     

  3. ed150

    ed150 deer city time

    carefull you will ruff some feathers,im not a dp guy :) :)
     
  4. x2 ED
     
  5. LightsOut

    LightsOut New Member

    When I started I watched a video a to z on mounting a w/t. And the cape was preserved with DP, but the cape was washed with Waco's skin prep after the cape was removed from the skull. So I did as the same for the fist 2 years on every thing, and now I use krowtann. Less shrinkage, but the DP mounts I've done still look like they where mounted today, no smell, no color fading.
     
  6. Dave H

    Dave H New Member

    564
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    ohio
    my intention wasn't to be a smart as_ it was a real question. The guy I watched said his capes never see water, so I was curious if that's how everyone did it.
     
  7. I pressure wash my capes ,flesh all the red meat off,thin the skin on a fleshing machine ,wash with detergent and never tumbled dry the only time my capes see DP is when I get ready to pull the cape on the form none goes in or on the hair ,from my experiance chemicals such as DP and salt will cause the hair to lighten over the years and I look at heads I mounted 25 years ago till today. To each his own
     
  8. michael p.

    michael p. Getting better with age :)

    That sounds awfully crazy to me personally. I'm running about 50/50 tanned & D.P. this year & I get some capes in that smell like they were rolled through cow crap! LOL I cut off all red meat & wash all blood, dirt and debris off and then THOROUGHLY wash the capes in a mixture of Tide & Downy. I then tumble them in sawdust in a machine we built, flesh the eyes, nose and turn the ears and then flesh them on my raw hide flesher. I then roll them in older DP and re-flesh again. I then rub them with DP really good and shake off all the excess. I then apply a very liberal misting of Stop Rot (you can see it being absorbed in the dry skin where the preservative is) and then roll them up and freeze them until I am ready to mount.

    This is the little saw dust tumbler we built to dry the moister from washing.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. boss400

    boss400 Member

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    I just flesh the cape using borax as i go, after fleshing turning ears i then sew up any holes. turn hair side out reverse ear then i wash in borax and dish soap with a little dp added. I let it drip dry while prepairing form .reverse skin and ears roll up in towel pat dry. I rub dp in bondo ears and mount. after mount has set a few weeks i wash with a brush dipped in cream rinse solution and pat dry with towel and groom. fleshing and washing with Borax really help in odor control. the cream rinse solution give a fresh smell to boot
     
  10. TD

    TD My GGG Grandfather John "Tanner John" King b 1820

    There are all kind's of taxidermist out there that do different levels of quality work.Tanned or DPed.When I DPed my mounts,I shaved them very thin.To those who never shaved a green skin,this might be difficult.Sounds like you just got a bad impression of a DP mount by someone that did not do a good job.All my capes were washed,squeaky clean with dawn dish washing soap and tumbled dry.The ones that stink are the ones that leave the chunks of meat on the skin...............
     
  11. TomCat

    TomCat Tommy B. <(((><

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    i don't see how any one can mount a hide with out washing it first, to look so good walking around every one i wash are DIRTY!!!!!!! as hell
     
  12. Bruledrift

    Bruledrift Active Member

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    I wash all of mine, cold water, lysol and dp. Then I do the cream rinse thing when dry. Ya, I couldn't see not washing the cape either.
     
  13. SHansen

    SHansen Member

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    I agree not washing makes no sense to me. I agree with Bruledrift, I flesh, turn the ears remove cartilage, split lips, eyes. Final flesh and thin on a fleshing beam, wash with cold water and Lysol detergent, rinse, rub with DP tumble in an old dryer hooked up to 110, no heat, remove from dryer after fur is fluffed up partilly, reapply DP. Insuring the entire skin is coated in a good coat of DP, sake off excess and mount. No smell and clean fur. Not washing isn't even an option.
     
  14. Dave H

    Dave H New Member

    564
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    ohio
    The guy that I watched was at a seminar at a state show, and does over 200 heads a year. His mounts look real good, I have seen him take blue ribbons. But what I'm telling you is a fact, no washing or cleaning what so ever. Since this guy is th eonly guy I ever wathced do a DP deer, and it was a seminar at a show I assumed he was doing it th eway that it is usually done. That gave me a real bad opinion of a DP deer. He talked as though not getting it wet helped assure no slipping or spoiling. Well, thanks for eductaing me on that matter. I guess the pro's don't always know what they are talking about.
     
  15. TomCat

    TomCat Tommy B. <(((><

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    well now wait a min you are right to a point you need to do all the prep work and have it ready for the DP and have the mankin prepped before you wash it, you don't want a wet cape sitting around as they are most prone to grow bacteria
     
  16. Dave H

    Dave H New Member

    564
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    ohio
    Micheal p wouldn't it be easier to Krowtann than DP for you. Flesh, Krowtann, neutrlize, wash , shave freeze or mount. Krowtann is about 6 bucks a cape the way I do it.
     
  17. michael p.

    michael p. Getting better with age :)

    Dave, I've got 2 bottles of Krowtann I bought last year still sitting here, I'd like to try it out. I had a young man come over with a Bobcat he was having problems with & I asked him who tanned the cat....for ALL the abuse it had been through, I was impressed with the shape it was in. He informed me it was his first attempt at anything with Krowtann. Trust me, I will try it but right now have too much of a good vibe & rythym going to experiment....mounting 2 and finishing 4 today!! LOL
     
  18. hounddoggy

    hounddoggy Member

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    mike, what does the stop rot do when you spray it over the dp?reduce shrinkage or just as an insurance type deal?
     
  19. Dave H

    Dave H New Member

    564
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    ohio
    I have east coast do all my wet tans right now, and my Krowtanns are every bit as good and I'll bet you couldn't tell them apart. Lots of stretch, shave really nice and mount up very good. Try it you'll like it.
     
  20. I would dp over forwtan any day. I use commercially tanned hides now. I started with dp then went to ez100 and loved that stuff (still do). Then with the hype of krowtan I tried it on a few deer and I hated that shizit every part of the smell, no stretch the mess YUK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now that I'm a little busier my stuff goes to the wildlife gallery or Bob Kennedy.